New Hooker G-Body LS Swap System Preview
#462
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#464
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#466
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Tod,
What are the possibilities of these getting any sort of rust problems? Snow finally melted for me to get to my car and my TSP headers have rust on the primaries near the top of the headers. They only have 500 or so miles on them and as stainless steel. Mine had a polished finish and I see yours are a bare steel finish.
Any concerns? Reason I'm asking is I am not too pleased my headers already rusted and if I ever went another header route I'd like to hope yours would last longer than these have. Plus I have about 1-1/4 inch set back plates so not sure if yours would fit with that much of a set back
What are the possibilities of these getting any sort of rust problems? Snow finally melted for me to get to my car and my TSP headers have rust on the primaries near the top of the headers. They only have 500 or so miles on them and as stainless steel. Mine had a polished finish and I see yours are a bare steel finish.
Any concerns? Reason I'm asking is I am not too pleased my headers already rusted and if I ever went another header route I'd like to hope yours would last longer than these have. Plus I have about 1-1/4 inch set back plates so not sure if yours would fit with that much of a set back
#467
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Yes, by my estimation I would say it's 3/4" as we used the brackets last year to set-up two cars for the LS swap challenge at LSFest and both cars were configured to use the stock crossmembers and TH350 transmissions by slotting the center mount holes towards the front of the car in crossmembers by approximately 1/4".
#468
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Tod,
What are the possibilities of these getting any sort of rust problems? Snow finally melted for me to get to my car and my TSP headers have rust on the primaries near the top of the headers. They only have 500 or so miles on them and as stainless steel. Mine had a polished finish and I see yours are a bare steel finish.
Any concerns? Reason I'm asking is I am not too pleased my headers already rusted and if I ever went another header route I'd like to hope yours would last longer than these have. Plus I have about 1-1/4 inch set back plates so not sure if yours would fit with that much of a set back
What are the possibilities of these getting any sort of rust problems? Snow finally melted for me to get to my car and my TSP headers have rust on the primaries near the top of the headers. They only have 500 or so miles on them and as stainless steel. Mine had a polished finish and I see yours are a bare steel finish.
Any concerns? Reason I'm asking is I am not too pleased my headers already rusted and if I ever went another header route I'd like to hope yours would last longer than these have. Plus I have about 1-1/4 inch set back plates so not sure if yours would fit with that much of a set back
The Hooker headers cannot successfully be installed with that amount of set-back due to the routing of the tubes around the rear lower control arm frame pockets. The height of your engine mounts will also more than likely cause interference issues between the header collectors and the floors. The headers really fit well, but only when installed with the Hooker engine brackets and transmission crossmember.
#470
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We don't. The lower installed engine height established by the Hooker engine brackets make 1-7/8" primaries the largest practical tube size that can be routed in this application with good clearances all around. The 3.5" collector size will also present ground clearance issues that will be unacceptable to many users. I understand the need exists for such a header in specific circumstances, but it's outside the design intentions of the Hooker system of components.
#472
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You could depending on the amount of shot and your tune, but if the 2" headers in question have low hanging collectors or are based around the geometry of swap plates that provide non-optimized engine inclination/U-joint working angles then the extra power gained is worthless in my opinion.
#473
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Do you have a picture you can post up? Are your headers 304ss or 409ss? All stainless steel headers will discolor from use with the final color being close to chocolate brown if you drive the vehicle hard. 304ss will scale, but it's rare to see it rust unless the raw material was stored on mild steel racks or worked with tooling(i.e. wire brushes)that was also used on mild steel materials; doing so will contaminate the surface of the stainless steel with particles that will indeed rust.
The Hooker headers cannot successfully be installed with that amount of set-back due to the routing of the tubes around the rear lower control arm frame pockets. The height of your engine mounts will also more than likely cause interference issues between the header collectors and the floors. The headers really fit well, but only when installed with the Hooker engine brackets and transmission crossmember.
The Hooker headers cannot successfully be installed with that amount of set-back due to the routing of the tubes around the rear lower control arm frame pockets. The height of your engine mounts will also more than likely cause interference issues between the header collectors and the floors. The headers really fit well, but only when installed with the Hooker engine brackets and transmission crossmember.
Dont mind the discoloring.....I had a oil leak on a drive home and it went all over the collectors and some piping...
#474
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Here are the pictures I have for my headers. I think the trans crossmember could still fit with your headers just because they do tuck up along the floor pretty well being the Iceman crossmember. But anyways, here are a few pictures of the headers. Not great but I took them before the sun went down....
Dont mind the discoloring.....I had a oil leak on a drive home and it went all over the collectors and some piping...
Dont mind the discoloring.....I had a oil leak on a drive home and it went all over the collectors and some piping...
If you compare your undercar shots to those I put up on post #257 you can see the difference in ground clearance that results from using components that are designed at the same time from a single source. I don't see a dead- center photo under your car, but if you post one up it would be the most telling in showing the differences. Also keep in mind that your engine is positioned higher in your frame than what is achieved using the Hooker engine brackets, which in turn creates a higher vehicle center of gravity and U-joint working angles that are of a greater degree value (lower RPM potential of your driveshaft/U-joints).
If you have interest in using the Hooker long-tubes, I welcome you as a customer and user of our products. They may be quite compatible with your Iceman crossmember, but their installation will definitely require the use of the matching Hooker engine brackets to avoid ending up with a basket-case installation. That's a good thing for you as you will see an improvement in your U-joint working angles and center of gravity as a side benefit. Let me know if I can be of any more help to you in your decision making.
#477
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Thanks for getting around to posting the images Justin. My experience tells me that there is some type of plating or coating on your headers. Bare SS headers typically do not turn blue from the temperatures normally experienced in an exhaust system (peak temps of 1,600 to 1,800 degrees F.)...it turns from bronze to chocolate brown in color. What material were your headers advertised to be made from?
If you compare your undercar shots to those I put up on post #257 you can see the difference in ground clearance that results from using components that are designed at the same time from a single source. I don't see a dead- center photo under your car, but if you post one up it would be the most telling in showing the differences. Also keep in mind that your engine is positioned higher in your frame than what is achieved using the Hooker engine brackets, which in turn creates a higher vehicle center of gravity and U-joint working angles that are of a greater degree value (lower RPM potential of your driveshaft/U-joints).
If you have interest in using the Hooker long-tubes, I welcome you as a customer and user of our products. They may be quite compatible with your Iceman crossmember, but their installation will definitely require the use of the matching Hooker engine brackets to avoid ending up with a basket-case installation. That's a good thing for you as you will see an improvement in your U-joint working angles and center of gravity as a side benefit. Let me know if I can be of any more help to you in your decision making.
If you compare your undercar shots to those I put up on post #257 you can see the difference in ground clearance that results from using components that are designed at the same time from a single source. I don't see a dead- center photo under your car, but if you post one up it would be the most telling in showing the differences. Also keep in mind that your engine is positioned higher in your frame than what is achieved using the Hooker engine brackets, which in turn creates a higher vehicle center of gravity and U-joint working angles that are of a greater degree value (lower RPM potential of your driveshaft/U-joints).
If you have interest in using the Hooker long-tubes, I welcome you as a customer and user of our products. They may be quite compatible with your Iceman crossmember, but their installation will definitely require the use of the matching Hooker engine brackets to avoid ending up with a basket-case installation. That's a good thing for you as you will see an improvement in your U-joint working angles and center of gravity as a side benefit. Let me know if I can be of any more help to you in your decision making.
They are 304 stainless steel headers. As for the header /motor mounts swap that would move my transmission and overall drivetrain forward compared to what I have now correct? Only reason I asked that is a mounting position of the tranny crossmember and drive shaft length. and honestly at this point I probably will just stay with what I have since I have other pressing issues with the car but I eventually want my exhaust redone as you can see it hangs down too low so if that calls for headers that tuck up more then I like to do that as well.
And as for the dead center photo, do you mean a side profile shot or front of the car?
#478
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If i were to do them, I'd try with the current mounts just due to the fact I'd have to probably do something about my trans and motor moving forward some changing the crossmember mounting position. Plus same would go for the DS as well.
#479
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Your ground clearance can certainly be improved upon onebadbowtie86. That would be my greatest gripe regarding the Hedman's if I were to use them...and the slip-on collectors would not make me feel all warm and fuzzy either.
#480
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The headers clear everything well, I just dont understand why they hang so low. Also where the collectors slip over the 4 primary tubes, they leak. I would like to buy a set of the hookers and try them with the 1" setbacks, but if they wouldnt work I would get the hooker mounts.