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Problems when not using native transmission in swap?

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Old 09-02-2014, 04:09 PM
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Default Problems when not using native transmission in swap?

It's difficult to find the ideal engine/trans complete pull out when trying to source one for a swap. It's a bit easier to find the engine without the trans. However, I've heard about some problems that arise when not using the original transmission that was mated to the engine, even when using another transmission of the same model.

How common are these issues and should I be adamant about finding a combo with original engine/trans still together?
Old 09-02-2014, 05:24 PM
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All Chevy trans will work with any Chevy motors fairly easy. At most a different flexplate/adapter to fit a SBC tans to an Ls
Old 09-02-2014, 05:39 PM
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Your only real issue will be encountered if you try to mix generations of electronics. 24 tooth reluctor vs. 58 tooth. As long as you don't try to mate a 6L series to a 24 tooth you should be home free.
Old 09-02-2014, 07:23 PM
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You will run into issues with 2007 and newer 6L80E,the internal transmission controller needs to match the PCM,most of the earlier stuff can be mixed and matched fairly easily.
Old 09-02-2014, 09:41 PM
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Originally Posted by tfi racing
You will run into issues with 2007 and newer 6L80E,the internal transmission controller needs to match the PCM,most of the earlier stuff can be mixed and matched fairly easily.
Hmm. I was hoping to find a 2007 or newer 6.2L (L92) for a swap and was considering the engine only without the trans. Thanks for saving me some trouble.
Old 09-03-2014, 08:43 AM
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Its all "doable" its just how much effort, time, and money your willing to invest to get the results your after. If you bypass OEM management the sky is the limit on your potential combinations.

But if you want low buck ease? Stick with the above advice, dont try and mix and match 07+ to 06 and older pieces. Theres more and some crossover stuff to avoid. Id avoid AFM altogether for any build or at least plan to delete it if you buy an AFM engine.

You can run yourself blind trying to sort all this out. Pick a power goal and we can advise you on parts to use that will best serve your needs. Just remember if your looking for >400whp NA? Its going to cost you, a lot. If you can live with the 350whp range you can get that done on the uber cheap. If your going to boost? Well... boost and cheap do not belong in the same sentence.
Old 09-03-2014, 09:08 AM
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Originally Posted by cam
You can run yourself blind trying to sort all this out. Pick a power goal and we can advise you on parts to use that will best serve your needs. Just remember if your looking for >400whp NA? Its going to cost you, a lot. If you can live with the 350whp range you can get that done on the uber cheap. If your going to boost? Well... boost and cheap do not belong in the same sentence.
Running myself blind trying to sort out problems is exactly what I'm trying to avoid and I'm willing to spend more, if necessary, at the start of the project to lessen the risk. I'm looking for 350whp and have no interest in boost for this project.
Old 09-03-2014, 09:17 AM
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Look for an 02-05 6.0L with 4L80 combo. Shave heads to bump CR to about 10:1 and install the TSP 228R 112 with PAC 1518 valve springs and re-use your stock retainers/locks. A GOOD quality stall. Coan, PTC, Art Carr, Vigilante etc. Expect the stall to be the most expensive part of the project aside from the engine. Install long tube headers and look for an LS6 intake ( or run the truck intake if fitment allows ) You may need an injector upgrade pending duty cycles ( tuner can tell you this )

You can use the stock PCM to control everything and then hire the BEST tuner you can find in your area. With such a basic package you can expect a one and done tune. 350 whp will be cake and it will run for a long time. You'll probably hit 360-375 whp with that set up.

You can apply the same formula to an LS1 but its hard to find a good clean one that isnt thrashed after all these years> LS2 also a great choice but the cost goes up... LS3 a LOT more cost.

LS3 on the cheap? Look for an LY6 and do a 24x reluctor swap and use above parts or find one of the Ly6/4L80 combos out there but that might be tricky.

Theres more but this is a general guideline typed in a few mins. Hope this is of some help.
Old 09-03-2014, 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by cam
Look for an 02-05 6.0L with 4L80 combo. Shave heads to bump CR to about 10:1 and install the TSP 228R 112 with PAC 1518 valve springs and re-use your stock retainers/locks. A GOOD quality stall. Coan, PTC, Art Carr, Vigilante etc. Expect the stall to be the most expensive part of the project aside from the engine. Install long tube headers and look for an LS6 intake ( or run the truck intake if fitment allows ) You may need an injector upgrade pending duty cycles ( tuner can tell you this )

You can use the stock PCM to control everything and then hire the BEST tuner you can find in your area. With such a basic package you can expect a one and done tune. 350 whp will be cake and it will run for a long time. You'll probably hit 360-375 whp with that set up.

You can apply the same formula to an LS1 but its hard to find a good clean one that isnt thrashed after all these years> LS2 also a great choice but the cost goes up... LS3 a LOT more cost.

LS3 on the cheap? Look for an LY6 and do a 24x reluctor swap and use above parts or find one of the Ly6/4L80 combos out there but that might be tricky.

Theres more but this is a general guideline typed in a few mins. Hope this is of some help.
Great, helpful info! Thank you.
Old 09-04-2014, 12:32 PM
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This seller on ebay has ly6/4l80 from time to time. good budget choice. he has one right now
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2008-LY6-6-0L-4L80-engine-combo-liftout-LS1-LS3-L92-LQ9-camaro-swap-Silverado-/321509809504?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4adb7a5d60&vxp=mtr



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