thunderwagen

iTrader: (3)

I like it man I recently picked up a patinaed 63 swb GMC that I plan on doing something similar with. Looking forward to your progress.

ctd450

iTrader: (1)

Here you go. Six lug Explorer 8.8. You can keep your 22s.






Cool build!

CarrBoost83

nice truck ill be along for the build. i am just finishing up the swap in my 83 swb but mine has a big hair dryer along side. i think ill be going to a 80e at some point. keep the pics coming its looking good man.

onetype

iTrader: (6)

Although I think they will look really good with some shorter tires and once the truck is bagged, I don't think I'm going to stay 6 lug just for those wheels. I'll be severely limited if I ever want to put something else on the truck.

I didn't think the rear hubs would be large enough for a 6th lug either, guess so.

Now that I'm swapping, I think a big Salt Flat would look killer. We'll see though...

ls1nova71

iTrader: (4)

Youre at the point of no return now!

You need to invest in an oxy/accetelyn torch, just heat them up and they'll come right off..... usually. Living in Texas, you probably don't have to deal with severe rust, so you're lucky there. Those of us in the Rustbelt are used to bolts not coming out.

onetype

iTrader: (6)

My Volvo was a Kansas car, and when I built it up in Kansas I broke more bolts than I did working on the '65 yesterday.

Surprisingly they all came out. Then again everything was covered in an inch+ of dirt or grease so that probably preserved a lot of it lol.

I'm now -$75 in the swap so far after selling the stock drivetrain. Guy is coming to pick it up today.

ls1nova71

iTrader: (4)

That's why we come down and buy rust free Texas trucks and bring them back north. Lol

onetype

iTrader: (6)

Spent an hour power washing the frame and suspension.

I can't decide if I am going to do full Porterbuilt suspension yet, or just a few essential pieces like front control arms, rear trailing arms, etc...

Full front end would allow me to run a rack and pinion, and would be around $1800 + brakes.

Having a hard time swallowing the $4k (roughly) full suspension will cost me. I know his stuff is top notch and probably worth every penny though.

hackster

Buy it now....or buy it later, cause you know you will.

Buy it now and do it once is what you need to do, but I get swallowing that big bill is rough.

Love the idea of the stock body with total updated suspension and drivetrain. You are going to kick yourself if you dont do the rack and pinion steering and end up doing big wheels on it.

My f100 drives like a brand new car, not even a truck with the crown vic setup on it.

Keep up the progress man, looks good.

Sean

onetype

iTrader: (6)

Yeah I agree. I always end up doing what I should have done in the first place anyway.

I sold my RD350 today to pay for the front end. Hopefully I can sell the complete factory front end to someone with a torsion c10 and recoup a little money at least.

aknovaman

iTrader: (7)

So where did the truck come from Craigslist in txt?

Have you looked at using mustang 2 front suspension? It can easily handle the weight and can be set up for bags.

onetype

iTrader: (6)

Truck came from Dallas. I bought it probably 6 months ago.

Drove it for a month maybe then it sat at Painless until a few weeks ago.

Can't really go wrong with a PB dropmember for $1000. Placing the order today. Just need to confirm that my ECE motor mount order has been canceled.

onetype

iTrader: (6)

So after crunching some numbers, the PB front end alone would be $3,800+. Rear would be another $2k after I'm finished. I just can't justify that even for a somewhat rare C10.

So I'm going to buy their level 1 kit for the front ($500), pancake my factory crossmember, add a CPP disc brake kit, and tubular trans mount.

I can always add the $800 No Limits rack and pinion kit later if I decide I want to ditch the steering box.

onetype

iTrader: (6)

Pulled the front end off today and took everything to a buddies to throw in his blasting cabinet. His compressor is too small, so I'm taking my big one over tomorrow.

Ordered a level 1 PB front kit yesterday. Waiting for it to show up, meanwhile I'm going to start putting new balljoints/bushings in everything up front.

I'll get some pics tomorrow.

thunderwagen

iTrader: (3)

I know exactly what you mean man. I have been going back and forth on the porterbuilt stuff or just pancaking the stock one and using his arms. That bill is a really hard one to swallow and I would be married to the truck after I spent that on suspension.

onetype

iTrader: (6)

I don't even think I will pancake the crossmember now after reading about issues people are having. Looks like 1-1.25 is the maximum without running into bumpsteer and funky steering issues.

I don't think it's really worth the extra inch, plus I'm running a truck pan which will hang pretty low.

If I can get the frame 1-2 inches from the ground, have a nice riding truck with bags, and in the process have new bushings/balljoints in the front end for a fraction of the price of PB stuff I will be more than happy.

Everyone wants a c10 on the biggest wheels they can find that handles like a car, and If I had an thousand of dollars lying around and nothing to spend it on I might do the same.

Buddy showed me some stuff tonight called Chassis Saver. Supposedly way stronger than powdercoat at a fraction of the price. $35 a quart. Comes in 4 different colors too. They put it on his dads LS swapped Jeep and they couldn't chip/scratch/remove it even after trying. Supposedly all the offroad guys use this stuff. If it's as good as he says it is, I'm going to roll the entire frame/x member and control arms in it.

TipsyMcStagger

iTrader: (1)

Chassis Saver

onetype

iTrader: (6)

Yeah supposedly that stuff rocks. I'll probably do all my stuff in it because powercoating around here is really expensive.

aknovaman

iTrader: (7)

FYI

Complete Air bag kit at a reasonable price. Steers and handles like a new car.

http://www.dustysgarage.com/xxxJWAirBagMIIKit.html

onetype

iTrader: (6)

Thanks for the link. Seems like an interesting universal kit.

I figure even if I had the No Limits Power steering setup, I'll still be less than $1500 in the front end. The only difference is I won't have tubular control arms which I don't really care about. I actually could care less about it handling like a new car. If I were that concerned about it, I would just buy something new with an LS already in it. But I have a CSTV or the Volvo for that purpose

Or in a few years when I want to put a full PB dropmember in, I'll unbolt this setup, roll it out and sell it, then order the dropmember and tubular control arms.

I am doing a full PB dropmember rear due to the condition of my trailing arms and that I am swapping in an 8.8