'65 C10 SWB Build
10-03-2014, 11:08 AM
#41
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Coming along nicely!
I've got a NLE rack going into my 71, it looks like nice stuff. I'll let you know if there are any issues with the install once I get motivated and install it.
PB stuff is expensive but it sure is nice. I had a full DM setup ready to go under mine until I realized it would move the motor and completely mess up all of the piping/alignment.
I've got a NLE rack going into my 71, it looks like nice stuff. I'll let you know if there are any issues with the install once I get motivated and install it.
PB stuff is expensive but it sure is nice. I had a full DM setup ready to go under mine until I realized it would move the motor and completely mess up all of the piping/alignment.
10-03-2014, 11:33 AM
#42
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Spent a few hours this morning with the wire wheel cleaning the front frame rails and crossmember. -As much as I could get to until the cab comes off.
Knocked off about 10+ industrial sized dust pans full of dirt/grime.
Also tossing around the idea of Z'ing the frame.
Knocked off about 10+ industrial sized dust pans full of dirt/grime.
Also tossing around the idea of Z'ing the frame.
Last edited by onetype; 10-03-2014 at 11:45 AM.
10-03-2014, 02:51 PM
#43
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That escalated rather quickly not didn't it?
I like it.
I am not sure about the zing the frame though, but you do good stuff. I have never owned anything that low, I think it would be awesome but would lose some practicality for me.
Sean
I like it.
I am not sure about the zing the frame though, but you do good stuff. I have never owned anything that low, I think it would be awesome but would lose some practicality for me.
Sean
10-03-2014, 03:37 PM
#44
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Haha, yeah a week ago I said to my buddy "I really like the inline 6/saginaw setup in this truck. I think i'm going to keep it in here for a while."
Yeah, right now it's just an idea.
But that's why I am going with a bag setup on this one. I still want to be able to lift it up and use it as a truck, tow, or take it camping etc...
I would only Z it 1-2" at most.
Ordered a can of Silver Chassis Saver to do the crossmember and control arms. Will get a gallon of black and do the frame/bottom of cab, and possibly firewall once I get new patch panels in and the cab/bed off.
Yeah, right now it's just an idea.
But that's why I am going with a bag setup on this one. I still want to be able to lift it up and use it as a truck, tow, or take it camping etc...
I would only Z it 1-2" at most.
Ordered a can of Silver Chassis Saver to do the crossmember and control arms. Will get a gallon of black and do the frame/bottom of cab, and possibly firewall once I get new patch panels in and the cab/bed off.
10-03-2014, 10:53 PM
#46
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Did the people you talked to complaining about the bump steer with the pancake move their steering box up the same amount as they cut out of the crossmember?
You could always go ahead and get the porterbuilt arms and they will pull the wheels in an inch and move them forward to center in the wheel well with that stock crossmember.
You could always go ahead and get the porterbuilt arms and they will pull the wheels in an inch and move them forward to center in the wheel well with that stock crossmember.
10-04-2014, 11:45 AM
#47
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I thought about it. I bought their level 1 kit for the stock stuff though. It was like $435. Then I got a tubular trans mount from them.
I can't imagine what shipping would be on their full kit, it was $177 for my small order.
My plan is to run this setup in the front for a while, then I'll roll it out and sell the entire front end when I decide to do a front dropmember.
I'm ordering CPP 2.5" drop spindle disc brake kit today as well. Sticking with the 6x5.5 to run my 22's and going to go down to a 255/30/22 instead of the 285/45/22's that are on there now.
I think the truck will handle decently once I put all new bushings/ball joints in it.
I can't imagine what shipping would be on their full kit, it was $177 for my small order.
My plan is to run this setup in the front for a while, then I'll roll it out and sell the entire front end when I decide to do a front dropmember.
I'm ordering CPP 2.5" drop spindle disc brake kit today as well. Sticking with the 6x5.5 to run my 22's and going to go down to a 255/30/22 instead of the 285/45/22's that are on there now.
I think the truck will handle decently once I put all new bushings/ball joints in it.
10-05-2014, 01:32 PM
#48
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Since I'm waiting on parts I decided to fix the rust that I can while the cab is still on the frame.
PO had a bunch of semi mud flaps sheet metal screwed to the floor pans, so there's a lot of little holes to fill.
PO had a bunch of semi mud flaps sheet metal screwed to the floor pans, so there's a lot of little holes to fill.
10-05-2014, 06:36 PM
#50
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Cool build so far. I'm in the same boat as you. I have the PB stage 1 front and 2 basic in the rear. Ordering at least the TA, trans and rear cross members in the next week or two. I keep debating on pulling the trigger on the full front end. It's what I want but a lot of money and have other places I'd also like to spend that money 
10-05-2014, 10:57 PM
#52
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Cool build so far. I'm in the same boat as you. I have the PB stage 1 front and 2 basic in the rear. Ordering at least the TA, trans and rear cross members in the next week or two. I keep debating on pulling the trigger on the full front end. It's what I want but a lot of money and have other places I'd also like to spend that money
I'm probably going to run the stage 2 deluxe kit in the rear. Are you happy with the rear setup? Or do you wish you would have done the drop member (around $2,100 with everything I would want).
I'm still considering Z'ing the frame up front, then a dropmember wouldn't be necessary.
10-06-2014, 06:52 PM
#53
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Do you have pics of it all the way down?
I'm probably going to run the stage 2 deluxe kit in the rear. Are you happy with the rear setup? Or do you wish you would have done the drop member (around $2,100 with everything I would want).
I'm still considering Z'ing the frame up front, then a dropmember wouldn't be necessary.
I'm probably going to run the stage 2 deluxe kit in the rear. Are you happy with the rear setup? Or do you wish you would have done the drop member (around $2,100 with everything I would want).
I'm still considering Z'ing the frame up front, then a dropmember wouldn't be necessary.
I don't really have the desire to lay frame but like the idea of the dropmember for a few reasons: setup specifically for my drivetrain, all new components, rack and pinion, and upgraded control arms that will help center my wheels in the fenders. I got a quote the other day and with my stage 1 kit it came to like $3400 shipped. That included mild dropmember. Control arms, new ball joints, R&P kit, radiator x-member, and trans crossmember.
Not sure if I'll go with the arms and DM just yet as I'm unfortunately not made of money. So it's going to be added in stages. I'm for sure getting the trans, TA, and rear frame crossmembers as they are vital for my setup.
10-07-2014, 06:37 AM
#55
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I haven't installed my kit yet. Been battling other issues with the truck. It's going on this winter along with the motor swap.
I don't really have the desire to lay frame but like the idea of the dropmember for a few reasons: setup specifically for my drivetrain, all new components, rack and pinion, and upgraded control arms that will help center my wheels in the fenders. I got a quote the other day and with my stage 1 kit it came to like $3400 shipped. That included mild dropmember. Control arms, new ball joints, R&P kit, radiator x-member, and trans crossmember.
Not sure if I'll go with the arms and DM just yet as I'm unfortunately not made of money. So it's going to be added in stages. I'm for sure getting the trans, TA, and rear frame crossmembers as they are vital for my setup.
I don't really have the desire to lay frame but like the idea of the dropmember for a few reasons: setup specifically for my drivetrain, all new components, rack and pinion, and upgraded control arms that will help center my wheels in the fenders. I got a quote the other day and with my stage 1 kit it came to like $3400 shipped. That included mild dropmember. Control arms, new ball joints, R&P kit, radiator x-member, and trans crossmember.
Not sure if I'll go with the arms and DM just yet as I'm unfortunately not made of money. So it's going to be added in stages. I'm for sure getting the trans, TA, and rear frame crossmembers as they are vital for my setup.
Yeah the rear deluxe kit is about as deep I want to go money wise. It will probably be around $2k shipped.
For the front, I figure I can always add a No Limit rack setup for $900 and still come out cheaper than a dropmember. And if I decide to Z it, I can be just as low.
I am running pretty much all their mounts though. Spent most of yesterday drilling out rivets for the stock stuff and filling holes.
10-09-2014, 06:29 PM
#56
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Mounted the '72 Pedal last night. It's a little higher than I would like, but it can't go lower, otherwise it won't get full motion due to the floor pan design.
Also put 2 coats of chassis saver on the crossmember today.
Also put 2 coats of chassis saver on the crossmember today.
10-10-2014, 12:06 AM
#57
thats exactly how I did my throttle pedal. works like a champ. I was gonna use a knarp and shorten it but ended up drilling and tapping the end of the lever for a brake cable adjuster from a mountain bike.
My front end needs some love so I'm following your build to see how it comes out. SO MANY OPTIONS.
Currently I have a mcgaughys 2.5 drop spindle and 6x5.5 11.8" rotor kit with manual master. Just recently I rebuilt it all, new balljoints, control arms, pitman and idler and steering end links. I also upgraded the LCA shaft U bolts to the larger HD ones from a '79 truck. The stockers are piddly 7/16"…
Also did the LCA shaft mod to get some + caster. Running right at +5.5* now.
It drives awesome, especially with the 12.7:1 cherokee steering box swap.
No more wandering around in the ruts on Oregon's raggedy-*** freeways.
BUT the LCA being offset now causes the coil to rub in the LCA spring pocket, and the noise is like having a steering wheel on my belt buckle
ITS DRIVIN ME NUTS
My front end needs some love so I'm following your build to see how it comes out. SO MANY OPTIONS.
Currently I have a mcgaughys 2.5 drop spindle and 6x5.5 11.8" rotor kit with manual master. Just recently I rebuilt it all, new balljoints, control arms, pitman and idler and steering end links. I also upgraded the LCA shaft U bolts to the larger HD ones from a '79 truck. The stockers are piddly 7/16"…
Also did the LCA shaft mod to get some + caster. Running right at +5.5* now.
It drives awesome, especially with the 12.7:1 cherokee steering box swap.
No more wandering around in the ruts on Oregon's raggedy-*** freeways.
BUT the LCA being offset now causes the coil to rub in the LCA spring pocket, and the noise is like having a steering wheel on my belt buckle
ITS DRIVIN ME NUTS
Last edited by truckdoug; 10-10-2014 at 12:08 AM. Reason: spelling, grammar, overall tone and substance :)
10-10-2014, 07:55 AM
#59
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thats exactly how I did my throttle pedal. works like a champ. I was gonna use a knarp and shorten it but ended up drilling and tapping the end of the lever for a brake cable adjuster from a mountain bike.
My front end needs some love so I'm following your build to see how it comes out. SO MANY OPTIONS.
Currently I have a mcgaughys 2.5 drop spindle and 6x5.5 11.8" rotor kit with manual master. Just recently I rebuilt it all, new balljoints, control arms, pitman and idler and steering end links. I also upgraded the LCA shaft U bolts to the larger HD ones from a '79 truck. The stockers are piddly 7/16"…
Also did the LCA shaft mod to get some + caster. Running right at +5.5* now.
It drives awesome, especially with the 12.7:1 cherokee steering box swap.
No more wandering around in the ruts on Oregon's raggedy-*** freeways.
BUT the LCA being offset now causes the coil to rub in the LCA spring pocket, and the noise is like having a steering wheel on my belt buckle
ITS DRIVIN ME NUTS
My front end needs some love so I'm following your build to see how it comes out. SO MANY OPTIONS.
Currently I have a mcgaughys 2.5 drop spindle and 6x5.5 11.8" rotor kit with manual master. Just recently I rebuilt it all, new balljoints, control arms, pitman and idler and steering end links. I also upgraded the LCA shaft U bolts to the larger HD ones from a '79 truck. The stockers are piddly 7/16"…
Also did the LCA shaft mod to get some + caster. Running right at +5.5* now.
It drives awesome, especially with the 12.7:1 cherokee steering box swap.
No more wandering around in the ruts on Oregon's raggedy-*** freeways.
BUT the LCA being offset now causes the coil to rub in the LCA spring pocket, and the noise is like having a steering wheel on my belt buckle
ITS DRIVIN ME NUTS
I ordered CPP 2.5 drop spindles with upgraded disc brakes. 6x5.5. It was $793 shipped and comes with 73-87 ball joints, and a bunch of other parts.
