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I did not use team Z, I went with MM, I am just posting a point for reference. However, my fbody T56 had interference issues between the trans tunnel and the service ears used when mounting the trans for repair. I think many GM T56s must, I don't see how they can't. If you want to measure the engine location relative to the firewall and pinch weld I would be happy to do the comparative measurements.
I did not use team Z, I went with MM, I am just posting a point for reference. However, my fbody T56 had interference issues between the trans tunnel and the service ears used when mounting the trans for repair. I think many GM T56s must, I don't see how they can't. If you want to measure the engine location relative to the firewall and pinch weld I would be happy to do the comparative measurements.
Yeah, that would be a good start. So what did you have to do to get the T56 in yours?
I did not use team Z, I went with MM, I am just posting a point for reference. However, my fbody T56 had interference issues between the trans tunnel and the service ears used when mounting the trans for repair. I think many GM T56s must, I don't see how they can't. If you want to measure the engine location relative to the firewall and pinch weld I would be happy to do the comparative measurements.
Can you get a measurement from crank centerline to the bottom of the frame rails along with from crank to pinch weld or valley cover to pinch weld?
Can't get good measurement on crank to frame rails.
When valley cover is 88.6 deg the bottom of the flat surface at the top of the k member is 86.5 deg. Therefore angled back at 2.1 degrees. Used digital inclinometer.
Ok, 7 1/8" from pinch weld to valley cover and 22 1/2" from firewall above pinch weld to front machined surface of block. I really don't see going back any more.
From bottom of frame rails to crank centerline is 3/4".
My inclinometer is at PMEL plus the car is on jack stands so I couldn't get the angle. Jk, I do not own an inclinometer but the car is in the air.
I had to hammer the firewall behind the pass side head to set my engine back that far. However, the forward position is not really hurting you unless you cannot drop the engine any more due to clearance between the pan and the rack. With the fbody pan or Holley 302-2 the farther back the engine goes the more it can drop in the chassis. The Mast pan is a good alternative also. If you are having trans clearance issue it is probably engine height related.
With the engine sitting where it is now, for and aft, the Moroso 21150 pan slides down behind the K member with 1/4" clearance and even with offset rack bushings there is 1 1/2" clearance above the rack.
Dont forget you also can use spacers for the k-member to frame. I use about 3/4" spacers which I was able to move the engine back a little more this way and some clearance. they now sell spacers for this, forgot who now.
Dont forget you also can use spacers for the k-member to frame. I use about 3/4" spacers which I was able to move the engine back a little more this way and some clearance. they now sell spacers for this, forgot who now.
Don't bring that subject up again, we've already gone round and round on that, I am with you on that i used just 3/8's" and it worked perfectly. UPR and Maximum Motorsports but you can make them easily enough.
I understand the point with the spacers dropping the k member and engine and headers and getting less ground clearance. However, if you drop just the engine without spacers, you also end up with less header and engine ground clearance. The engine clearance isn't really an issue, it's the header clearance that could be a problem. Granted, you won't know if you have header clearance problems until you spend $600 on headers, and then, you already spent the $600. This is pretty much why I began down the path of building my own headers (which is on temporary hold to expedite the project).
From the side view in your pics, it looks like you will hit the oil pan on the k member much sooner than the oil pan will hit the steering rack? Can the problem be solved by swapping pans and moving the engine forward to retain the ground clearance? Granted, then header fitment is affected fore and aft even though the engine remains in the same spot vertically.
I would tell you to notch the pan and weld it, but given the fact that I notched my fbody pan and wrecked it and then bought the 302-2 to replace it, maybe I shouldn't give advice.
Is the Team Z the old design or the new design? They changed it a while back to make everything fit better (or maybe just fit to begin with)?
The other thing is that, 2.3L auto chassis fox cars have a smaller trans tunnel than the T5 cars and the 5.0 auto cars. At least this is true with the aero cars from 87-93. Maybe you should look into which tunnel your car actually has? An 81 Cobra should have been a Canada car and I have no idea what they came with OEM, was it originally a 2.3L turbo? Or what am I missing here?
Based on the pinch weld measurement, your engine is about 1.375" higher than mine, and mine fits but is farther back at the same time (less clearance that way). You appear to have done all the same things I did to mine to get it fit, cut tabs, hammered tunnel. The only difference appears to be engine height?
Crank center line. Measuring off the pinch weld is only a guess. Engine angle can move this around. I don't think the engine is as high in the car as you think it is. My pan was above the k member. With the aje it hung down.
Put the tb on it with the air pan and see how it fits the the cowl I know I have pics of that. Should be A better guide.
crank center line. Measuring off the pinch weld is only a guess. Engine angle can move this around. I don't think the engine is as high in the car as you think it is. My pan was above the k member. With the aje it hung down.
Put the tb on it with the air pan and see how it fits the the cowl i know i have pics of that. Should be a better guide.
The pan will have to be trimmed whenever I get the engine right but this is untouched since you had it Tim.
09-21-2014, 06:14 PM
