Hank Peabody

iTrader: (2)

Has anyone tried a Holley pan in a 62-67 Chevy II? It looks like it might fit if the engine was moved back about an inch. Id really prefer to stay with a rear sump pan and don't want to buy the Milodon special one because it would require removal of the oil pan to get the engine in and out.

RedMan*

iTrader: (4)

GTO front sump is what most folks are running.

nitrous1

Exactly what I used for my LS swap into my 63 Nova. No clearance issues at all with the factory power steering setup.

4drnova

iTrader: (9)

I also used gto oil pan. 66 nova with stock front clip n stock steering

TomM

iTrader: (56)

To use a rear sump you would need to convert it to rack and pinion steering. Using the small block Chevy position as the baseline, you do not have an inch to move it back. You have maybe a half inch and that's a big maybe.
GTO pan is your only option to maintain stock steering.


T,

Hank Peabody

iTrader: (2)

I tested it today finally and the engine fits with the Holley oil pan and the stock steering. Need to trim the firewall a little for good clearance but it will work.

Hank Peabody

iTrader: (2)

Moving the heater motor in an inch and cutting a little of the empty space out of the bottom of the wiper motor mount lets the engines sit closer to the fire wall and the Holley pan gives plenty of clearance. Not sure how a V8 would fit in the car and use the stock transmission crossmember without doing those two anyway. The factory V8 cars must have a slightly different firewall.

Long story longer, if you do a tiny bit of trimming and moving, the Holley pan fits great with an inch of clearance to the stock steering arm.

LS1 pwrd NOVA

iTrader: (2)

Can you post some pics of this clearance all around?

Chevy Kid

All first and second gen Nova's had the same firewall, regardless of factory installed engine.

Agree with previous poster, would lke to see pics of what all you did.

Tim

Hank Peabody

iTrader: (2)

Looking at it closer you don't have to trim or move anything. But if you don't you can't put the engine in with the trans connected, the engine has to drop straight down. It is right up against the two points I mentioned earlier, the #8 coil is right against the heater motor, and the drivers side valve cover right at the back is against the whiper box area. Both areas can use 1/4" more clearance but might not be necessary.

RatCityRex

iTrader: (3)

I was able to drop my motor and trans in together in my 66. I unbolted the swaybar crossmember and my pitman arm mount. Gave me enough slack to drop them in together. As far as fitment goes, the pass side head on a ls sits flush with the rear of the block as where a small block has about 2" from the rear of the pass head to where the trans mounts to the back of the block. I'm using a gto pan and it clears everyware. But I only have about 1/2" between the firewall and the rear pass side head. And I had to actually move the motor forward about 3/4" to get it to fit without cutting the firewall.

Dale Long Sr.

when you used a gto oil pan on your 63 did your car have a control valve and power cylinder. did it clear with all that?

G Atsma

Nitrous1 hasn't been here for over 6 years. The OP is still around though.