62-67 Chevy II stock steering, oil pan?
#1
62-67 Chevy II stock steering, oil pan?
Has anyone tried a Holley pan in a 62-67 Chevy II? It looks like it might fit if the engine was moved back about an inch. Id really prefer to stay with a rear sump pan and don't want to buy the Milodon special one because it would require removal of the oil pan to get the engine in and out.
#3
#5
TECH Resident
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To use a rear sump you would need to convert it to rack and pinion steering. Using the small block Chevy position as the baseline, you do not have an inch to move it back. You have maybe a half inch and that's a big maybe.
GTO pan is your only option to maintain stock steering.
T,
GTO pan is your only option to maintain stock steering.
T,
#7
Moving the heater motor in an inch and cutting a little of the empty space out of the bottom of the wiper motor mount lets the engines sit closer to the fire wall and the Holley pan gives plenty of clearance. Not sure how a V8 would fit in the car and use the stock transmission crossmember without doing those two anyway. The factory V8 cars must have a slightly different firewall.
Long story longer, if you do a tiny bit of trimming and moving, the Holley pan fits great with an inch of clearance to the stock steering arm.
Long story longer, if you do a tiny bit of trimming and moving, the Holley pan fits great with an inch of clearance to the stock steering arm.
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#9
Moving the heater motor in an inch and cutting a little of the empty space out of the bottom of the wiper motor mount lets the engines sit closer to the fire wall and the Holley pan gives plenty of clearance. Not sure how a V8 would fit in the car and use the stock transmission crossmember without doing those two anyway. The factory V8 cars must have a slightly different firewall.
Long story longer, if you do a tiny bit of trimming and moving, the Holley pan fits great with an inch of clearance to the stock steering arm.
Long story longer, if you do a tiny bit of trimming and moving, the Holley pan fits great with an inch of clearance to the stock steering arm.
Agree with previous poster, would lke to see pics of what all you did.
Tim
#10
Looking at it closer you don't have to trim or move anything. But if you don't you can't put the engine in with the trans connected, the engine has to drop straight down. It is right up against the two points I mentioned earlier, the #8 coil is right against the heater motor, and the drivers side valve cover right at the back is against the whiper box area. Both areas can use 1/4" more clearance but might not be necessary.
#11
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I was able to drop my motor and trans in together in my 66. I unbolted the swaybar crossmember and my pitman arm mount. Gave me enough slack to drop them in together. As far as fitment goes, the pass side head on a ls sits flush with the rear of the block as where a small block has about 2" from the rear of the pass head to where the trans mounts to the back of the block. I'm using a gto pan and it clears everyware. But I only have about 1/2" between the firewall and the rear pass side head. And I had to actually move the motor forward about 3/4" to get it to fit without cutting the firewall.
#12
#13
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