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Yes sir. Base fuel pressure for ls engines is 58 psi and the injectors flow xxx amount of lbs an hour (give or take) at that psi. Your 65 lb injectors flow 65 lbs at 58 psi. My 80lb injectors flow 80lbs at 58 psi
Yes sir. Base fuel pressure for ls engines is 58 psi and the injectors flow xxx amount of lbs an hour (give or take) at that psi. Your 65 lb injectors flow 65 lbs at 58 psi. My 80lb injectors flow 80lbs at 58 psi
Noted, thanks for the heads up on this. So if I am getting a fixed 58 psi to the injectors from the pump, why do I see some people running fuel pressure gauges on their rails or somewhere else on the fuel delivery system? I am just curious b/c it would seem to me if you know you should be getting 58 psi all the time whether WOT, accelerating/decelerating. Who cares it should always be 58 psi or am I missing something?
Alot of people run adjustable regulators so they need to know where the pressure is set at. You can adjust it up and down to help with injector duty cycle. Also if you have a non adjustable regulator and you have the guage hooked up, you can look at it when you go WOT and see if your pump cant keep up etc.
Alot of people run adjustable regulators so they need to know where the pressure is set at. You can adjust it up and down to help with injector duty cycle. Also if you have a non adjustable regulator and you have the guage hooked up, you can look at it when you go WOT and see if your pump cant keep up etc.
All right noted. I appreciate the help on that subject.
Well the project is coming along. We had some minor floor pan work to do the other day, but we finally got the tunnel all welded in.
So now I am unsure on where to post some of my questions. Whether it be here, directly on my build thread, or just directly in the Conversion/Hybrid section. I am just am unfamiliar with the proper way the forum works in regards to build threads vs specific questions.
I wanted to go with the LS1 coupled with the Super Vic and a throttle body to replicate the 4 barrel carb look. We are trying like hell to be able to run the original hood and not a scooped hood. If you look at the photo below you and see the arm on the throttle body is obstructed by the air cleaner.
I see where the throttle body arm can come off the shaft, but I do not think that is going to help me in this case. Do I just trim down the throttle body arm in order to help it clear? Also what throttle cable system do I need to be looking at for this setup? The picture below is the gas pedal that came with the car. The piece that would attach to the cable in the engine bay actually hits the back of the fuel rail on the drivers side. Do I need to get a whole new pedal or do they sell just the piece that attaches to the cable as an offset piece. I would just bend it, to make it clear, but if I do that I am not sure I will have enough height to to reach the throttle body arm.
The piece with the rubber grommet is the part inside the engine bay that is striking the back of the driver's side fuel rail. Can that piece just be replaced with another?
Thanks for the help on this guys. Now I am getting down to the details, this being my first one it can get a bit overwhelming at times. Much appreciated.
I'm not using your setup, but I ended up swapping my lever pedal out for a Lokar direct fit cable style pedal. It bolts up to the same spot as the factory pedal and makes for a very clean install. I'm sure your cable wouldn't have to be as long as the one I used.
I'm not using your setup, but I ended up swapping my lever pedal out for a Lokar direct fit cable style pedal. It bolts up to the same spot as the factory pedal and makes for a very clean install. I'm sure your cable wouldn't have to be as long as the one I used.
How do I know that the arm that comes into the engine bay will be good and not interfere with anything? Did you buy the throttle cable and pedal at the same time, or did you have to get the pedal and then measure what length cable you would need? Also where did you buy yours? It would be nice if I could buy it local and then if it does not work I can return it.
Hi Mike, The pedal will positively work. It does not use an arm in the engine bay anymore, it's just a cable. I bought them both at the same time, but I measured to see what length of cable I would need. Only mod you need to do is drill a mounting hole for cable in the firewall.
I had the same gas pedal problem with my 65 Chevelle. I wound up using a pedal from a 1st gen Camaro. Bought it on ebay for $25 and used an old LT1 throttle cable. You could probably do the same with a cable from an old hood release or even a mountain bike brake cable. I'll attach some pics. Hope it helps.
I am going to go with the Lokar Direct Fit Pedal. Now I am trying to figure out what bracket and cable I need to be running on my 4150 style throttle body.
What throttle cable bracket should I run?
I have seen this one from Jegs, but not sure if I should get it.
I like the black.
Would this bracket work for my setup? Anyone have any idea on a part #?
I have also seen brackets like this one on summits website:
What is the spring doing on the bottom? Also when I look at the Lokar website they talk about something called a kickdown cable, and I do not know what that is either.
Man I feel like a Simpleton here, but just can not figure out which parts to go with here. Help on this is really appreciated. Thanks guys.
I like that Jeg's bracket too. With your setup being the 4150 style I believe any 4150 carburetor style bracket will work for you. Kickdown cables are for connecting a non electronic transmission to the throttle for downshift purposes so you will not be needing one for your 4l80e.
Did those tubular a-arms come with coil over springs? Where u can adjust height on front end if need be
I got the Stage 2 from UMI. They did not come with coilovers, and I did not feel like I needed them. The stage 2 already drops the car about 1"1/2 to 2". I did not feel I wanted the adjustablity. However, my understanding is you can upgrade to the coil overs. UMI kit installed flawlessly.
Got all my holes, and plugs all welded in. My plan is to come back and do a POR15 over coat onto the floor of the car. There seems to be some differing opinions of prep work before applying the por15.
I went ahead and roughed up my floor pans by running 60 grit on an Orbital sander, then coming back with a wire wheel to get all the seems and indentations. Then vacuumed it out. This is what I have now. https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1Q...BE6-QM31TcDS8z
From here I am planning on using Simple Green or another degreaser and then wipe that off. Then after that I am not sure what to do. I see alot of people use phosphric acid to prep the metal, and then wash that off before applying the POR. However, that seems that they do that for bare metal. I damn sure do not want to get every piece of paint off of the floor pans. Heck, I am just getting these prepped, putting POR15 on them then covering with dynamat or some other insulation. Hopefully I will never seem them again!
What are your recommendations from this point where I am in the process? Thanks guys, I could not do this without you all chiming in, since this is my first resto.
Your pan looks to be in pretty good shape, I would stay away from POR. Tough to deal with later if yoy have to. If your looking tp brush on a paint google Masterseriescoatings, I used it in my cowl area, not easily visible, easier to remove if needed. On mine I plan on scuffing and using Lizard Skin heat and sound deading, is $ but works good.
Your pan looks to be in pretty good shape, I would stay away from POR. Tough to deal with later if yoy have to. If your looking tp brush on a paint google Masterseriescoatings, I used it in my cowl area, not easily visible, easier to remove if needed. On mine I plan on scuffing and using Lizard Skin heat and sound deading, is $ but works good.
I don't ever expect to need to remove it from my floor pans. I could see wanting something that was a bit easier to remove for another piece of the car or an appliaction. I already have the POR15 and would like to use it, and not just buy another product. I am just trying to understand what I need to do to the metal to prep it accordingly. Thanks for the help.
Do you have a pic of the steering/oil pan clearance with the suspension loaded? I'm using the autokraft pan and Doug's plates with short and wide mounts with no tie rod clearance at all
06-08-2015, 05:05 PM
