Taxman20

iTrader: (11)

Ordered the Holley 302-1 oil pan today from Summit. Now I need the cam info so I can get that ordered. Hopefully I will have this ready to start by next weekend. Have to wait for the ecm to come back though. Gives me time to play with the engine a little and get it stabbed into the truck and work on the trany crossmember. I can picture some cutting and modification on that to get good clearance for the driver side exhaust pipe.

rpturbo

iTrader: (47)

That Holley pan still needs a notch just a heads up. It "may" fit without it, but TRUST ME, your much better off with a notch. That Holley pan, and my CPW harness were the 2 best investments I have made on my truck.

Taxman20

iTrader: (11)

Notching the frame is fine if I need to. I had found a bunch of guys using the 302-2 pan with frame work needed, but that pan has a 2 inch longer sump than the 302-1 pan. And most with that pan stated it fir right it, but some still do a notch, either way its all good.

And I did the harness myself, but am cheating with the built fuse/relay box.

I did ask him in an email which I have not heard back from him. Since this is a 97 chevy with basically the same parts as the truck this engine came out of, couldn't I have just used the wires from the existing fuse box and relays to run the same things I will run on this stand alone? So basically eliminating the stand alone fuse box.

Taxman20

iTrader: (11)

OK, just an update.
Holley pan is installed.

Headers, motor mounts and fuse/relay box is here.

ECM is on the way back now.
Ordered the fuel system from the cell to the fuel rail today.

So tomorrow I am going to get the engine and trany installed. Plan to cut and weld on the trany cross member to allow for duel exhaust.

Then the other stuff gets here by the 23rd or 24th and I make it live by next weekend.

At least that's the plan.

Taxman20

iTrader: (11)

OK, I got the engine into the truck, then pulled it out, then back in and now out again, all to work the cross member. Cut a lot off the back side of it and got the engine all the way end. Once it was in, I realized if I had just pulled the intake before I tried to install the engine, it would have fit without any cutting to the cross member. Kinda sucks, but I am going to go ahead and notch the back of it anyway since I already cut it.

So hopefully today the engine goes in and it can stay there. Hook up the wiring harness and be ready for the other parts to come it. Will post pics of the work today.

Taxman20

iTrader: (11)

Cross member is done. Now I need a fitting for the front trany coolant line since the stock line is too far out and hits the floor pan. After that I can install the engine and then begin work on the trany cross member.


Not pretty but it will work. My bad back doesn't allow me to hang over the work long enough to do too much with it.

Taxman20

iTrader: (11)

Well Christmas caused some shipping delays, so it isn't running just yet. But I am getting closer. Engine and trany is installed. Just got the transmission X member built and installed. I built the crossmember to allow for true dual exhaust. Will have to double check the angle of the engine once I get it back on the ground and all put back together. I think the trany is angled down too far but should be close. Maybe within 1 degree.

Also decided to go ahead and get my rear end where I want it. I got a good deal on a 9" with third member, new spool and back brace. My buddy owns Pro Comp engineering in Austin and is going to narrow it and build it for me. Will have 31 spline Strange axles and Wilwood brakes if I can find my brackets for my 4 piston calipers I had already. I also found a Richmond 3.88 gear that I tried in a stock car I had that wasn't enough gear. Will be narrowed to 54 inches which is stock width for the S10. This will handle the 800+hp I am going for in my later build. Either turbo or sprayed. Not decided yet. But I want to run a small tire setup. Had plenty of big tire cars, so this should be interesting.

After working to get the engine in, I was installing the headers. Well I found a couple exhaust bolts broke off in the driver side head. One was already drilled and tapped to a size 10 and the other one, which is at the firewall, I am still working on getting out. The guy I bought this from didn't mention this and I didn't look. At least he has offered to send me another set of heads if I want them. So anyway, I have to get the bolt out, then I can install the harness, install the headers and then the fuel system. I bought a Aeromotive pump and filter off this site from a member. Just need a couple more AN fittings to get it plumbed. Have to install the bed to install the fuel cell.

So heres a couple pics of the current state.

76larkman

lookin good there especially fab work. not enough people put enough thought in sometimes. get the wiring/ fuel stuff workin out yet? that thing should be a monster on/ off track.

Taxman20

iTrader: (11)

Thanks. I haven't touched the wiring yet. I do have everything ready to go though. Wanted to get the engine and trany installed first. I will get the fuel pump and lines run this week. Then get the wiring for the harness and fuse block done. It might be next week before the rear end is ready to install. The I can put the bed and front clip back on.

Still need to order the radiator, wheels and tires and some misc stuff. I hope to have it road ready in the next 30 days.

My problem is nothing I have ever owned is fast enough. So this may go like my last drag race era. I bought a tubbed S10 that ran 10.0 on a 125 shot to a 7.60 dragster within 12 months. So I can see this truck running stock for a few months, then the engine and trany build gets done. Will shoot for a minimum 600hp plus spray for 300 or so. I would like to be near 1000hp with power adders. And with this comes gutting the truck and a cage installation. My wife is already talking about it. LOL She knows me too well. My dragster was 1300hp on a 250 shot. I do miss it. Thrill is my addiction.

76larkman

aint that funny how ol lady reads a guys mind on car stuff but dont know when your thinking SEX! She probably wants to drive, my ex ol lady would jump in drive, she was thrill junkie too.

Taxman20

iTrader: (11)

Well I got the harness installed. Need a couple looms on it to make it look better. Need to install and wire up the fuse block and locate the needed wires from the truck itself.

I also got the broken bolts in the driver side head drilled and tapped. That really sucked. But the header is on now.

And today I mounted the fuel pump and filter and ran the supply lines. Still need to make and run the return line. I broke the last 6AN fitting I had for it so I cant do it today. The pump mounted nicely inside the side frame rail.

Taxman20

iTrader: (11)

Well I installed a cover panel for the A/C location since I am not using it in this truck, but I kept everything under the dash installed so its an easy install for someone else if they buy the truck and want A/C later.

Now, I have mounted the ecm and fuse block from Current Performance. I also added a block for 12v power for accessory stuff if needed later. I started to get things wired up and I am really out of my element here. I don't like wiring and really don't trust myself doing it. I can understand some but not all of it. I emailed CP to see if they can brake it down in the simplest form for me. If you guys have any experience with these please post up. Also going to need advise or help on the wires form the truck itself to make sure it all works right.

The best case scenario for me and the wiring is someone that lives near me has don't his before and would stop by one day to help. LOL That would be awesome.

76larkman

cant tell from pic as whats really going on there. Do you have all 8 of pink injectors tied into 1 fuse on fuse panel? I have all passenger tied together same with driver side so I now have 2 wires tied together at fuse block. I just tidy it up on amount of wiring gone. Should be 2 orange from pcm to battery 12 volt. ! wire to 12volt key to pcm. # grounds in system 2 back on top block, 1 down low driver side of block. I have to look up rest as not remembering all. Looks like you got a lot done.

Taxman20

iTrader: (11)

Yea I know. I am not worried about appearance yet, just want to make it run. Then I will take out un-needed wires and loom it.

Heres what I have. Keep in mind this it with the CP fuse/relay block prewired. I just need to know something simple. Like this wire goes to that wire. Done. LOL Keep it simple. I would hate to wire this how I THINK it should be and fry something like the ecm. That would **** me off enough to pull all of this out and install an old SBC

Your Fuse / Relay block
Pink wires
Bank 1 goes to driver side coils and inj
Bank 2 goes to pass side same.
MAF/02 goes to my MAF sensor wire. I don’t have heated O2’s
Trans goes to ?
ECM / Ign relay goes to ?
12v switch goes to ?
Ign Empty goes to ?

Other wires on your block
ECM battery goes to ?
Battery empty goes to ?
Fuel pump signal goes to ? Maybe the fuel pump signal from the ecm ?
Cranking signal goes to ? I am assuming the start signal from the key switch
Fan 1 goes to ? I am assuming the ecm fan 1 wire
Fan 2 goes to ? I am assuming the ecm fan 2 wire
Fan 1 and 2 power wires I know to the fans.
Fuel pump power I know to the fuel pump.

My ECM wires
PCM ign supply
PCM ign supply
Fuel pump relay control
TCC Break switch
Vehicle speed output circuit
Malfuntion ind lamp. I think this would go to the check engine light on the dash but have no clue how to sire this.
Serial Data to OBD-2
Fan 1 Assuming these fan wires go to the block fan wires as I mentioned above.
Fan 2

I know from my truck I need the start signal from the key switch and the run signal from the key switch. Just need to be safe on what I wire these to. And battery power direct from the battery.

76larkman

well I don't know on your prewired cp box as I wired mine like LT1Swap has in his pics. I would start by plugging all connectors at motor end work backwards to pcm. Did you take out any wires out of pcm plugs? what year is harness? Colors blue and green or blue and red?

Taxman20

iTrader: (11)

I followed the LT1swap instructions for the 02 chevy 5.7 which is the same as the 6.0. Yes I pulled pins. Its red and blue. For the pins I pulled, I left the wires in the harness for now. I tried taking it art but its a pain I the *** really. I HATE wiring to say the least.

Taxman20

iTrader: (11)

This is the block I bought from CP.
http://www.currentperformance.com/sh...erelay-module/

Taxman20

iTrader: (11)

I think I figured out the ecm and harness to the fuse/relay block. . I will get it wired this weekend. Just needed to sit in my living room while watching Top Gear with my wife and read.

So now all I have left is from the ecm. Need to figure this stuff out.
Malf. ind lamp , This goes to the check engine light on the dash?
Vehicle speed output , Need to know which speedo wire this goes to I guess.
TCC break switch , no clue really.
Serial Data to OBD-2 , Again, no clue.

76larkman

don't panic yet, I think it would help to get all the junk wires out totally. it clusters it up makes more confusing. the cp kit looks like it workout good. I just haven't seen 1 in person. im a hands on guy. on blue plug #20 & #58 orange goes directly to pos battery,#33 purple to brake switch,#42 is for cooling fan may have to add wire, #75 pink off/run/crank voltage must have, other connector #9 fuel pump relay primary, #33 fan 2 control, #46 check engine control, #50 vehicle speed out got to have, try getting some of those figured out. anything that says 12v ignition is on only with key on.

Taxman20

iTrader: (11)

junk wires aren't an issue. I have them cut way back a couple feet and they are buried in the harness now. So you cant even see them. I think I'll get it done this weekend. I might even get to turn gas into noise if I can get the PNP to work on the trany. The switch has all that epoxy in it from the factory and the plug doesn't want to go back in now. Sucks really.