Mike Blanco

I am starting to mock up the motor to the car at this point. We originally tried the Moroso 20141 oil pan The Jegs site specific says it is good for the 64-72 Chevelles. Well I had my doubts after reading some posts on here, but it was too late so we gave it a try. Of course it did not work out.

I was able to pick up the Holley 302-1 pan I was interested in the 302-2 pan, but it specifically says you have to be running the stock stroke of 3.62", and we are running a 4.1" stroke so that pan was out.

I have the Holley 302-1 pan mocked up to the motor over the weekend and it still looks like I may have to notch the K member down about 3/4". However, before I went ahead and started cutting, grinding and rewelding to box the K member I thought I would check in with you guys and see if there was indeed a pan that will work without me doing all this fabrication work.

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

Mike,

Why do you need to notch the front cross member? As the engine sits now do the inner tie rods clear the pan at full turn?

Andrew

Mike Blanco

When I lower the engine and try to get the mounts onto the frame tabs the oil pan is resting on the K member and not letting it completely drop down. I was thinking about notching the K member, but I am really trying to avoid that if I can.

1FastBrick

iTrader: (16)

What are you using for Engine Block to Frame mounts???

Mike Blanco

It is a LQ4 6.0 with the Dirty Dingo DD plates and Energy Suspension Short and Wides.

kwhizz

If you notch the crossmember.......that will just lower the engine relative to the steering and just complicate that problem.....I'm out of town right now but later in the week I will post up a drawing for the mounts I made to raise the engine to clear.....


Ken

kwhizz

Found them in my thread.......scroll thru the pic's and you will see what I did and the Drawings are in there.....

https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...version-5.html

Mike Blanco

I went through your build thread, not the first I have seen of it, very impressive work. It looked like you fabricated your own mount plates, and mounts. I see you used a service manual to mock up your distances, and probably get your measurements.

I know people have done these conversions countless times on these A body Chevelles, w/o having to notch the K member, if the right parts are used. I would really prefer to find a mount plates and some way I will not have to notch the K member, but I am honestly at a lose here.

I will be working on the car this week, and will get photos of my issues.

1989GTA

I used the Dirty Dingo sliders and all went well. The final adjustment was with the headers on for maximum clearance for those. Then we cinched it all down. The back of the engine is maybe 3/4" to 1" off the firewall. The car is not here or I would measure it for you to get an idea.

Edit: As to the stearing clearance in the end I did add some stops to the stearing but it has plenty of turning radius. I have yet to use it all up.

Mike Blanco

What car are did you do this work on?

I keep running into build threads where people have notched their K members to get the oil pan to clear and get the mounts down to the tabs. To me it seems that companies would have already seen this on these particular cars, but I am having trouble locating the proper mounting plate with the right motor mount inserts.

1989GTA

"What car are did you do this work on?"

1965 Buick Skylark. Let me add that we welded the motor mount "risers" to the frame. I used the Chevelle tall and narrow mounts.

CattleAc

iTrader: (7)

When I did my 72 A-body wagon...I researched a lot of pan options...

I checked into the Canton pan #15-274...from what I gathered this pan will fit without notching the crossmember...and I think it will fit your stroker clearance issue's.

That being said, If I had an unlimited budget, it would be my first choice...

(But...since I don't have a stroker...I cant justify giving $750.00 for an oil pan going on a "budget" 5.3L engine that came out of a Suburban I only gave $750.00 for...)

Mike Blanco

Yeah I am looking at that Canton right now, but I am trying to get some dimensions on it and compare that to the Holley 302-1 pan. This guy got his Canton on his El Camino w/ zero issues. http://67-elcamino.com/wordpress/?p=159

Mike Blanco

Wow that was horrible use of the english language, on my part.

oldgoat69

I have a Canton pan on my LQ4, tons of room. My goal was to get the engine as low as possible into the frame for hood clearance. The PS tie rod just barely kisses the pan at full lock leaving a polished spot on the pan.

kwhizz

I couldn't use the Dirty Dingo's because of having to mount the compressor down low to clear the Supercharger drive belt and they were fighting for the same space......thus.....I had to make my own.....

Ken

1964SS

iTrader: (1)

Are you hitting on the top of the k member or at the rear? Would setting the engine a bit further back correct the issue?

Mike Blanco

I think I have it as far back is the DD Dingo mounts will let me w/ the Holley 302-1 pan. I am going to be working on the car tomorrow or Thurs. and I will let you know.

1964SS

iTrader: (1)

The Dingo double D mounts should give you about 1" of clearance from passenger head to firewall. Moving the frame side stands back a bit might solve your issue, but then you run into more trans tunnel clearance issues.