When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
First post so hopefully this is in the correct area.
I have an El Camino I'm trying to do an LS swap on. Trying to be as prepared as possible and have as much of the equipment I need so that I can get the parts and get to work.
82 El Camino g body
2005 Suburban LM7 Engine and 4l60e transmission combo. Will come with all accessories.
I believe I will be buying the brp ls engine mount kit with transmission crossmember.
Im have lots of questions but I'm currently working on the ac compressor. it seems there are a few reports of the vortec engines and accessories clearing the frame.
the ac pump is mounted down low passenger side on the LS motors in trucks/suv anyway. LS Brackets.com are on ebay selling brackets to move things for better clearance. I see speedway has motor mounts with ears that auctully goes on where small block mounts are. I havent used them so I dont know what pan works. Everybody on here seems to go holley pans for better clearance. Dont use GM Muscle car pan. I did it doesnt have very good ground clearance. Its a little shorter in debth than truck pan and on my skylark sticks below crossmember 1-1 1/2 inches.
That is a pretty common question for g-body swaps and be careful, there is some misinformation on the web about low mount a/c fitting in g-bodies. I have finished 3 swaps in different g-bodies now and I have learned lessons from each one.
The answer to your question is yes. A stock truck accessory drive including the low mount compressor will fit into a g-body with ZERO modifications to the frame. However, you can only use the truck compressor if you use non plate-style mounts like Spohn's mounts.
I cannot verify fitment with BRP mounts but I don't see why it wouldn't work. Another mount option is UMI's new swap mounts, but I have not seen any one use these yet. They do look nice though.
You may look into other options for a trans crossmember. I have not heard too many good things about the BRP. (iceman, g-force)
The CTS-V is the best fitting GM oil pan for g-bodies.
Guys thank you for the info. I really appreciate all the help. I may have talked myself into the LS Holley System and an entire piece because it looks clean and there appears to be no question it will work and well. I have been going back and forth about the pan. Bigmandengo i have a follow up question for you. The CTSV pan and the GM muscle car pan appear to have the same depth. they are both 6.75 in deep but the gm pan is 150 vs the 300-350 for the ctsv. The holley looks the best being shorter by about an inch but its also in that 300 range. I may bite the bullet and spend the extra money to not worry about ripping the pan off. after all i am putting a lot of time and effort into it.
That is a pretty common question for g-body swaps and be careful, there is some misinformation on the web about low mount a/c fitting in g-bodies. I have finished 3 swaps in different g-bodies now and I have learned lessons from each one.
The answer to your question is yes. A stock truck accessory drive including the low mount compressor will fit into a g-body with ZERO modifications to the frame. However, you can only use the truck compressor if you use non plate-style mounts like Spohn's mounts.
I cannot verify fitment with BRP mounts but I don't see why it wouldn't work. Another mount option is UMI's new swap mounts, but I have not seen any one use these yet. They do look nice though.
You may look into other options for a trans crossmember. I have not heard too many good things about the BRP. (iceman, g-force)
The CTS-V is the best fitting GM oil pan for g-bodies.
Spohn mounts with truck compressor.
Good information and I can ad a little more detail to it based on my experience with this swap application. The ability to install/utilize the truck compressor without having to modify the vehicle depends on 2 factors, which are the design geometry of the engine mounts/brackets themselves and the fore/aft and height position the mounts/brackets put the engine in the chassis.
Guys thank you for the info. I really appreciate all the help. I may have talked myself into the LS Holley System and an entire piece because it looks clean and there appears to be no question it will work and well. I have been going back and forth about the pan. Bigmandengo i have a follow up question for you. The CTSV pan and the GM muscle car pan appear to have the same depth. they are both 6.75 in deep but the gm pan is 150 vs the 300-350 for the ctsv. The holley looks the best being shorter by about an inch but its also in that 300 range. I may bite the bullet and spend the extra money to not worry about ripping the pan off. after all i am putting a lot of time and effort into it.
Let me know what you think. again appreciated.
According to the oil pan sticky, the H3 (muscle car) pan is 7.5 inches deep. It is definitely deeper than the CTS-V pan, but the price is certainly attractive. The new Holley pan would be my choice if I could justify the price tag.
The new Holley system appears to fit well and be rather painless. However, the downfall to their kit is, the inability to utilize a low mount compressor due to the motor mount design. For guys looking to supercharge or turbocharge, top mount a/c setups get in the way. And top mounts are expensive compared to the free compressor that most likely came with your used engine. I really do like the Holley kit but the mounts will keep me from buying it unless I was doing a non-a/c car.
lessthanO look up my posts by clicking on my sreen name and see if you REALLY want to use the BRP kit and the Hedman headers. I suggest using the Holley/Hooker kit for the G body vehicles. First of all I could not use the BRP transmission crossmember. It is total garbage. 2ndly do not use the truck or Hummer oil pan because they hang too low below the crossmember. I used the Holley 302-1 pan and it fits perfect. It does not hang below the crossmember. As far as the trans crossmember I used the "Iceman" trans crossmember. I had too many problems with the BRP trans crossmember. If you want anymore info send me a PM.
According to the oil pan sticky, the H3 (muscle car) pan is 7.5 inches deep. It is definitely deeper than the CTS-V pan, but the price is certainly attractive. The new Holley pan would be my choice if I could justify the price tag.
The new Holley system appears to fit well and be rather painless. However, the downfall to their kit is, the inability to utilize a low mount compressor due to the motor mount design. For guys looking to supercharge or turbocharge, top mount a/c setups get in the way. And top mounts are expensive compared to the free compressor that most likely came with your used engine. I really do like the Holley kit but the mounts will keep me from buying it unless I was doing a non-a/c car.
Your assessment is not entirely correct; the Hooker engine brackets will allow you to install the later design truck A/C compressor in the stock location as long as you are willing/able to notch the engine crossmember just below it.
This is a good opportunity for those planning the swap to use the Hooker system as a point of reference as to whether or not a particular set of mounts or other aftermarket components will allow them to achieve the end result they are trying to achieve.
By this, I mean that the fact that another brand/type of engine mounts allows the truck compressor to clear the frame or be quite a bit in front of it should indicate to you that your engine is going to be further forward and/or higher than where it will be located by using the Hooker mounting brackets.
The following effects of that are basically the following:
Further forward- negative affect on weight transfer, lessens the fitment envelope in front of the engine for things such as air intake tubes, radiators, fans and turbos/plumbing. There is also a point where the forward movement of the engine beyond the location set by the Hooker brackets also will preclude the F-body and GTO low mount alternators pulleys from clearing the steering box.
Higher up- creates clearance issues between the hood and the truck intake and alternator, moves the right coil pack into the A/C evaporator case and increases your U-joint working angles (if you are planning on running a 4L80e trans you need to be aware of this especially; the Hooker system produces optimized U-joint angles with no clearance remaining between the a 4L80E trans case and the floor of the car from which to adjust the engine inclination angle further). Using taller engine brackets than the Hooker brackets will require you to cut/rebuild your tunnel floor to achieve the same engine inclination and U-joint working angles that come as a feature of the Hooker mounts.
Your assessment is not entirely correct; the Hooker engine brackets will allow you to install the later design truck A/C compressor in the stock location as long as you are willing/able to notch the engine crossmember just below it.
This is a good opportunity for those planning the swap to use the Hooker system as a point of reference as to whether or not a particular set of mounts or other aftermarket components will allow them to achieve the end result they are trying to achieve.
By this, I mean that the fact that another brand/type of engine mounts allows the truck compressor to clear the frame or be quite a bit in front of it should indicate to you that your engine is going to be further forward and/or higher than where it will be located by using the Hooker mounting brackets.
The following effects of that are basically the following:
Further forward- negative affect on weight transfer, lessens the fitment envelope in front of the engine for things such as air intake tubes, radiators, fans and turbos/plumbing. There is also a point where the forward movement of the engine beyond the location set by the Hooker brackets also will preclude the F-body and GTO low mount alternators pulleys from clearing the steering box.
Higher up- creates clearance issues between the hood and the truck intake and alternator, moves the right coil pack into the A/C evaporator case increases U-joint working angles and (if you are planning on running a 4L80e trans you need to be aware of this especially; the Hooker system produces optimized U-joint angles with no clearance remaining between the trans case and the floor of the car from which to adjust the engine inclination angle further).
So, a late truck compressor and bracket will clear your new engine mounts? That is great news if so. Do you have any pictures of a low mount compressor bolted on along with your motor mounts?
So, a late truck compressor and bracket will clear your new engine mounts? That is great news if so. Do you have any pictures of a low mount compressor bolted on along with your motor mounts?
Yes it will, but as I stated above, you'll have to notch the chassis crossmember below the compressor. I can put together an engine stand mock-up of the mounts and compressor installed on an engine tomorrow and take a picture of it for you and others interested in seeing it. I don't have a photo of the set-up in a car as we went with the Holley bracket set-up in our project car which negated the need for me to perform that task.
Yes it will, but as I stated above, you'll have to notch the chassis crossmember below the compressor. I can put together an engine stand mock-up of the mounts and compressor installed on an engine tomorrow and take a picture of it for you and others interested in seeing it. I don't have a photo of the set-up in a car as we went with the Holley bracket set-up in our project car which negated the need for me to perform that task.
That would be awesome. I would definitely like to see a picture of them both installed and I am sure others would too. On an engine stand is just fine.
That would be awesome. I would definitely like to see a picture of them both installed and I am sure others would too. On an engine stand is just fine.
As discussed earlier, here's a couple of photos that show the later stock truck A/C compressor mounted to an LS engine also equipped with the new Hooker G-body right side mounting bracket. If you have a desire to run this set-up in your G-body you will have to notch the chassis slightly below the compressor and also notch/carve on the die cast aluminum compressor mounting bracket that goes between the compressor and the engine. To sum it up, you can run the low mount truck compressor with the Hooker brackets and take advantage of the optimized geometry that comes with using the Hooker components, you just have to be willing and able to do a little fab work to make it happen. If you want to go the bolt-on route for A/C functionality, Holley offers top-mount R4 and Sanden compressor brackets for that purpose.
12-16-2014, 01:10 AM
1982 El Camino LM7 Swap Help 
