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Used them, built very well. Used their crossmember and full exhaust, all top notch quality. They make cross members for both 4l60 and t56. And yes f body pan clears with huge amount of room and above the bottom of the subframe so no worries of scraping.
We are looking at running the hooker motor mounts? any input on these? I think the stock 98 f-body pan will clear the k member, and the car doesn't have ac so we will delete that system, no need to notch the k member.
We are looking at running the hooker motor mounts? any input on these? I think the stock 98 f-body pan will clear the k member, and the car doesn't have ac so we will delete that system, no need to notch the k member.
Being your car is a 70, just use your OEM SBC stands and CARSHOP 1" setback swapplates. Use oem or poly engine mounts.. A Camaro4 oilpan fits perfectly if you don't want to modify anything during install, look into HOOKER headers (not so nice looking IMO) and what ever engine mounting they recommend with their trans mount.
If you don't mind a little extra work for better appearing headers( again, IMO) use the OEM stands and C-S plates as I mentioned earier. DOUGS' headers look nice and use V-band clamps at the collecter and they are REAL close to the floorboard. I used a SUMMIT racing trans mount (same as G-Force mount IIRC) IF you decide to research this any, I have a thread started using what I suggested. I am real happy with the little extra work I had to do for the header clearance.
Your 70 looks like a SOLID starting point. Being a WA car, I assume there is NO RUST. Panels looks nice and straight and gaps look perfect. Are you going to ditch the 8.2 rear eventually? ANy ideas what gear you will run? Any chance of getting more pics of your 70?
The car does appear fairly rust free. I know it needs floor pans and a trunk pan, but we bought it from a body guy that had already prepped the body for paint. I will have to prep the hood and trunk lid, put in floor pans and trunk pan, and fix the dash corners, but other than that, there is 0 rust anywhere else. I will be working on the car this weekend so I will get some more pics of it for you boys. It has a 12 bolt rear end that "supposedly" has a posi unit, I need to pull the pan and see if it truly is a posi. We need to change the gear ratio anyways to set it up to our trans/TC. I think we will need to go get as close to 3:23 as possible according to the gear equation, but I havn't even started looking for gears, I wanna get the rust out of the car first, then we will start ordering performance/go fast parts. Any tips on gear selection?
My 70 also has a 12 bolt but sadly no posi unit. I'm very interested to see if yours has a posi unit. Mine came with 350 4 speed manual. Just a heads up be careful when trying to remove the pinion locking bolt. Mine was broken in half and I had to tap that out of the diff. Huge pain!!
Being your car is a 70, just use your OEM SBC stands and CARSHOP 1" setback swapplates. Use oem or poly engine mounts.. A Camaro4 oilpan fits perfectly if you don't want to modify anything during install, look into HOOKER headers (not so nice looking IMO) and what ever engine mounting they recommend with their trans mount.
If you don't mind a little extra work for better appearing headers( again, IMO) use the OEM stands and C-S plates as I mentioned earier. DOUGS' headers look nice and use V-band clamps at the collecter and they are REAL close to the floorboard. I used a SUMMIT racing trans mount (same as G-Force mount IIRC) IF you decide to research this any, I have a thread started using what I suggested. I am real happy with the little extra work I had to do for the header clearance.
Your 70 looks like a SOLID starting point. Being a WA car, I assume there is NO RUST. Panels looks nice and straight and gaps look perfect. Are you going to ditch the 8.2 rear eventually? ANy ideas what gear you will run? Any chance of getting more pics of your 70?
best of luck.
JIM
The hooker mounts come with templates too to drill out the frame for the later mounts. What didn't you like about the hooker headers? I have the 1" 7/8 stainless and welds and collector came to me clean and ready to bolt on. I think they look just as good if not better than any other header on the market.
Last edited by lowerthanyou00; 12-19-2014 at 02:45 PM.
The hooker mounts come with templates too to drill out the frame for the later mounts. What didn't you like about the hooker headers? I have the 1" 7/8 stainless and welds and collector came to me clean and ready to bolt on. I think they look just as good if not better than any other header on the market.
IIRC, the tubes kinda snake around too much for me. Thats all.
IIRC, the tubes kinda snake around too much for me. Thats all.
Oh yeah, once they are in you really don't see the bends because of the frame. One side I know has more bends in it. I'm assuming they did this to make them near equal length? I do notice that they are low, not as bad as my fourth gen though. Anyways sorry to hijack the thread
Well, after getting some firewood blocked and in the shop, and the shop cleaned, we were able to get to gutting the 70 yesterday. The rust isn't too bad, the floor pans and trunk pans are the worst, which we knew when we bought the car. We were able to salvage a good majority of the interior pieces but alot of it was trashed. Here's some pics.
We are looking at running the hooker motor mounts? any input on these? I think the stock 98 f-body pan will clear the k member, and the car doesn't have ac so we will delete that system, no need to notch the k member.
I'm running the same mounts on my 79 TA LQ4/4l60e swap. The require you to use the hooker ls swap headers and the transmission crossmember though to get the best possible driveline angle.
My 70 also has a 12 bolt but sadly no posi unit. I'm very interested to see if yours has a posi unit. Mine came with 350 4 speed manual. Just a heads up be careful when trying to remove the pinion locking bolt. Mine was broken in half and I had to tap that out of the diff. Huge pain!!
Thats a rare rear end there , posis are easy to acquire
Thats a rare rear end there , posis are easy to acquire
looks like you got a great start snowhunter
It is a rare rear end to have. One thing to note is the 12 bolt pinion locking bolt is specific to the 12 bolt diff. Cant just use any standard locking bolt on that diff. I had to hunt down a replacement for a while.
Thanks for you input all, we are pretty stoked, I got it all vacuumed out last night and took and account of the rust in good lighting, it's got a little inside, but not too bad. We will see where it goes, also scored an LS6 intake with fuel rails for $300, it should ship one of these days...
12-19-2014, 12:28 AM
