Szil66

Hey guys, I know this has been covered and I know there are threads covering it, however that is where I run into my problem. There are so many mixed answers as to what will work and what wont.

I am swapping an LM7 into my 1960 Bel-Air. The truck intake won't clear so it looks like I will be using an LS2 or LS6 intake for budget reasons.

I understand that I need a different waterpump. I have heard I need an F-body or L92 waterpump. Which one works better? Do I have to worry about my belt not lining up with an f-body pump? I am also wondering if I need different injectors, fuel rail, etc? Do car injector use the same plug as truck ones? Do those fuel rails use a returnless system?

Also, since I have the water pump off, would it be wise to do a cam swap? What is the best cam for my money? I am okay with changing springs but I don't need anything radical, just a few extra ponies.

Anything else that would be a good idea to do while I have everything apart?

Sorry for so many questions, this is the part of fuel injection I don't like. There are just so many different ways of doing the same simple task. I appreciate any and all help.

Thank you.

Szil66

Any help?

76larkman

injector plugs are different, water pump will need spacers to work with truck accessories, you can cut part of bracket by altenator & relocate idler pulley for throttle body clearance. You can change injector plugs or maybe adapter plugs for that. I think your better off getting used intake complete with rails/injectors. I haven't changed any of this on my 5.3 but that's what Ive read on here. Dirty Dingo has water pump spacers & idler relocator stuff. Anybody else Know more bout it?

LXguy

iTrader: (5)

Cool!

Fbody pump is a good choice, but you will need water pump spacers.

Water Pump Spacers

If you want to use the truck alternator/PS bracket you'll need an idler relocate:

Idler pulley relocation kit

Depends on which harness, etc. They make injector adapters, commonly available, cheap on Ebay. Like he said, I would try to get an intake that comes with that stuff.

These motors love cam swaps. We put this cam in a 64 Impala and it helped it out a lot.

http://www.flowtechinduction.com/fti...r-tq-camshaft/

Depends on the mileage on the motor. Oil pump, lifter trays, lifters, are all possibles, just depends on how many ticks on the clock.

Another thing you will run into is the oil pan. Only thing I have seen work reliably with these is the newer Holley pan... 302-2.

Szil66

Thanks! You don't see many '60s with the swap! Unfortunate for me! Haha

I actually don't plan on using power steering right now. I am not entirely sure how to go about that whole subject though, any suggestions? I could will still end up using that relocation pulley but thought I would ask to see what you had to say about bypassing power steering.

You're suggesting buying everything at once and then getting adapters? Correct? I would like to get everything at once but it's not easy finding them! Especially not with the budget I am on.

Thanks for the link! Makes me question why these LS cams are so expensive! haha You could put 3 cams in a SBC for that!

180k miles, it's up there but internals didn't look [/I]too[/I] bad! haha

I already have a CTS-v pan on. It lays on the cross member but I plan on doing a small notch. Won't be anything major, 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch.

My entire intention of this car was as follows:

I got the car for free as payment from a buddy of mine for painting his pickup.

It was meant to be a super budget build and complete sleeper for the time being. I am getting a little off track, especially since I don't have the money right now. I would still like to stay on a strict budget but with needing a car intake that pretty much goes out the door. I am currently in school for Custom Paint&Fab/Auto Body Collision.

I have big plans for the car but as of now I would really like it get it going for a little as I can. Besides the motor the car is getting front disc brakes and still needs a lot of work to be mechanically sound. I don't have the money to dump into the motor right now, all though I would really love to.

I thank you for your help. And any further help is greatly appreciated! This is my first swap, and this has put a huge damper on my excitement for LS swaps.

Szil66

I also bought a 97 4L60e, I read that 97 and up would work but after more research I have realized it might be 98.. Can anyone confirm this? I'm not sure the guy gave me the right torque converter so I will probably get a new torque converter. Should I bite the bullet and buy a low stall? Or just stay stock?

76larkman

what makes you think wrong convertor? take flywheel put up to it see if same bolt pattern.

Szil66

It seems to bolt up fine and doesn't seem like I need a spacer. However, I actually got it from my buddy who got it from a junkyard he has connections with. My buddy told me he said he was going to give me an old style converter so I wouldn't need a spacer. I don't know whether that is true or not? Also, I got GM torque converter bolts for a 97 transmission and they were way too long. They were the right threads just about a half in too long.

bczee

iTrader: (12)

Didn't see anyone addressing putting in the LS6 cam. A LS6 cam has a smaller base and the longer valves of at LS6 heads make up the difference.

To use the cam with non-LS6 heads/valves.. you will need longer push rods. 7.425. This is the size i use when i switch to a 03' LS6 cam in my gen III LS1.

Do some research on this subject. I know some have said they used stock 7.40 and it ran ok. But, bottom line is that you should do a check yourself.

BC

76larkman

I don't no about spacer either but should be able to measure using straight edge to see how far convertor fully engaged into tranny at center nub. then do same back of motor with flywheel to see if it be close. Ive heard where older tranny convertor nub was to small to fit into crank flange correctly. it needs to just fit loosely. convertor bolts I think parts store carry them.

Szil66

I have read into doing an LS6 cam swap but I think if I do decide to do a cam swap I will get one for a 5.3. I am just trying to save as much money as I can doing this and I want everything to work right when I am done.

Will have to look at that. Wasn't sure if anyone else had heard anything about the older converter eliminating the need for a spacer and that's why the 97 transmission works or if you would need it regardless.

Thank you for your help though

cam

iTrader: (9)

Id stuff a 4L80 in there while your at it. One and done on the trans. 4L60 is not a great platform for performance, or durability especially with the weight of that car imo.

That street sweeper cam will be magically delicious in that engine. But you NEED 1 3/4" longtubes and good exh/int to realize its potential. If you cant swing both? Do the headers and exh and leave the engine stock until later, cam swaps are really simple on LS builds and can be done in car.

If you do the cam you should also look into a stall which is key, and is not cheap, or if it is its seldom worth buying and again if you dump coin for a 4L60 stall? Your stuck with a 4L60 but if you do the 4L80 and then get a stall you can use that tans for literally ANY power level moving forward, plus it has better ratios than the 4L60. Weight is the only downside

Szil66

Well, like I said this is a budget build. I am still in school and the car is really a last priority right now, I would just like to get it up and going as quickly as possible. Trust me, this car will get a totally different set up when I restore the entire car.

I picked up the 4l60 for $200 and I couldn't turn it down, it was also plug and play. I didn't want to worry about changing the harness I have.

I may pass on the cam for now, and do it in the car like you said. I do want long tube headers but the x-frame is posing to be picky. I know hugger headers will fit but I am not sure about longtubes, especially once I drop the car.

The only reason I am even doing an intake swap is because I need the engine to even FIT in the car. I never planned on doing anything to this motor besides drop it in and run with it. However, I figured since I was going to have it apart, should I do anything with it now, or wait until I go big with it?

This car is getting the best of me..

cam

iTrader: (9)

I think you have the right mind set to build this thing. If your going to go low buck then skip the cam, and just get it in there and running/driving. Once on the LS platform upgrades and mods are easy, and can be done at leisure when your pockets are more bloated.

Even a bone stock LS1 with good exh and a tune is plenty snappy and mint for a daily driver.

Szil66

Which is exactly what I want. A '60 Bel Air isn't a very common car, and I would like it to be a daily driver while I still can. Once, I restore it, the car probably won't be driven much but it'll have a little more muscle as well.

Unfortunately, I have an LM7, but hopefully with a decent intake it won't be too bad.

cam

iTrader: (9)

Ahh yes LM7, still just about as good for a DD. If you have the 799 heads its even better imo

Szil66

Unfortunately, they're 862!

cam

iTrader: (9)

Platform. LSx get on it and you wont look back. Power parts are easy to find and change later

Szil66

Once the money comes, I plan on it.

Szil66

Okay, maybe someone can help me with this..

I am considering shaving my truck intake, as I think it could possibly get me the room I need. However, to get that much room I will have to move my throttle cable. How can I do this?

Do I need an LS1 throttle body and cable bracket?

I would much rather buy a throttle body, than an entire intake/fuel rail/injector set up.. for cost purpose..

Any help is appreciated it. I need to gain a couple of inches and by shaving the intake I can gain at least an inch, then I plan on notching my crossmember which will gain me a little as well. Either way, I am not out anything but time by shaving the truck intake. If it doesn't work, oh well, I need a car intake anyway. If it does work, I saved myself a few hundred dollars!