alocker

iTrader: (10)

Knocked out the crossover pipe a few other odds and ends. I never really took the time in the past to mockup a drivetrain out of the vehicle but it's really the way to go. It reminds me the first time I worked on a motorcycle and how nice it is to have everything out there. An engine compartment is a crappy place to work on engines and I know this one isn't bad. The word "Northstar" reminds me of really bad engine bays.

The driver side is 2.5" and it necks down to 2.25" to gain velocity. My piping is probably not optimized but cam and converter should optimize response. I was at the mercy of the header.







Next was crossing my fingers and ordering a dipstick. It was hard to pinpoint what would work with the turbo header and downpipe locations. I almost splurged on the Lokar but it seems way to short. I saw suggestions for the F-body stick and spend about $30.00 for both parts. For reference, the tube is 12551577 and the stick is 12551581. Might need a tiny tweek to clear the downpipe but the height looks like it will be perfect. Turbo feed/drain lines and fittings routed also.

kainedogg

iTrader: (23)

Great progress brother

alocker

iTrader: (10)

Thanks man. Slow and steady. I try to do at least one thing per day even if it's only a 15 minute task. I am doing the final prep to install the motor and trans for the last time. Small things like sealing threads and priming the converter. Anything I can do out of the car that will make it easier to button things up.

Actually started the trunk wiring instead of just staring at the wires and procrastinating. The original fuel tank vent hose was removed. I purchased a new repo of the original vent tube grommet that has 2 holes that will work perfect for my wiring. No hole saws needed. There will be a few holes drilled for mounting bolts but that's it.






I really did not want to run aftermarket trans cooler lines but the stock ones hit the floor pan. I had about a 1/2 inch removed and they should work great. I will have the cooler side lines crimped just like factory on the other ends.


The finished crossover. I feel lucky my welder has a good combo of price, quality, and turn around time. This will get ceramic coated then wrapped. It will be the only part that gets wrap to keep as much heat off the trans as possible.

Jimbo1367

VEry nice work. Keep up the great work.

alocker

iTrader: (10)

I was off of work this week so I got some more stuff done. I thought I would get more done but 3 kids really make it difficult to get steady work in.

Here is a shot of the motor going in hopefully for the last time.


I was confirming converter engagement before install. Yank specs 1.030". Right on target. I'm glad I did this with the trans out of the car. Getting the last click took some pressure and would have been a giant PIA lying on the floor under the car.


Started work on the trans crossmember. This was another task I was not looking forward to. It was pretty straight forward though with a lot of metal dust and smoke.


Here is what 47 years of internal crossmember rust looks like. I was a little worried but the metal is very thick and still appears to be intact.


I have made templates for the 3/16" filler plates that will get welding in. I will have my welder guy finish it since I'm not sure my welder can get enough heat into this to get full strength.


Here are the finished motor mounts and battery box epoxied and ready for install. Will all of the negative reviews on Optima batteries recently, I decided to go with a Duration 78 AGM from Blain's Farm and Fleet. This is an AGM made by East Penn and private labeled for $130. Paired with the Trail Gear battery tray from Summit it should be lower cost solution versus Optima.





The motor actually bolted in the car for the first time.

alocker

iTrader: (10)

Finally got a full day to work on the car. I did the final install of the starter cable. This is my first trunk mount battery and I never realized how much time goes into running and securing a heavy cable properly. That ate a bunch of time but it's done.

The fuel tank is also mounted for good...fingers crossed. I had a small issue with the spare tire bulge interfering with the sending unit. I purchased some adhesive backed rubber from Mcmaster to space it down slightly. I also used shrink wrap to insulate the mounting straps. The tank wiring and fuel connections are set up for easy service. 3 quick disconnects and 1 an fitting and the tank is ready for removal. I am proud of myself for figuring out how to install braided harness loom without having to look it up on Youtube.






The crossmember completely welded. After final fitment conformation it will get blasted and powder coated.






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Impalarado

Awesome build man, I'm working with a 70'

Jsmolar

Can you get me a better picture of your motor and trans mounts? i am doing a very similar build.

Jsmolar

also did you have to modify your trans tunnel?

alocker

iTrader: (10)

I am using Moroso solid motor mounts attached to the frame stands I made in the pictures above. Trans mount is a Prothane poly mount. I did have to slightly clearance the tunnel for the cooler lines and the rear 4L80e speed sensor. If you don't plan on turbo charging, the motor could be mounted more forward which would slightly reduce the amount of tunnel clearance need.

alocker

iTrader: (10)

Thanks bud. Get working on yours.

Impalarado

Changing the rear main and oil pump, front timing cover gasket nxt week once my cam gets here then should be ready to go in

Motown 454

iTrader: (15)

Great Job! I just found this thread I'm going back to the start and read it all. What fuel line and fittings did you use?.

alocker

iTrader: (10)

Thank you sir.

I'm using Summit Premium Nylon Braided hose and a combination of Summit, Earls, and Fragola fittings. -6an into a Y with one -8an to the front of the car. Even though the hose is rated for E85 it's still a gamble whether or not it will work. I will update the thread if it does not.

Motown 454

iTrader: (15)

It looks great.

alocker

iTrader: (10)

I just received a custom harness from Affordable Fuel Injection. Overall I am very impressed with the service and product. My harness was built with a few features not available in an off the shelf product. Here are some of my harness needs.

-MAP reference for the fuel pump controller to provide fuel pressure rise with boost. MAP wires integrated in the harness to pass into interior.

-6 ft main harness extension to mount ECM, TCM, and fuse box on the front passenger fender.

-Custom length and position O2 sensor pigtails.

-Specific length and location for main feed, OBD, DBW, and fuel pump signal branches.


I initially called and spoke with Andy to find out what they were capable of. He was happy to answer all my questions and seemed confident that all my needs would be met. When I was ready I put together a diagram of the harness branches and lengths and email it to Andy at AFI.

The harness looks great and has everything I requested. While I have not installed and run it, communication has been very good and I have no worries if I need support.

Small labels on each connector is a nice touch and don't need to be removed.





High temp sleeve by the starter.

alocker

iTrader: (10)

Tackled the Intercooler/radiator/fan module. The ATP end tanks will be welded to the Garrett 24x12x3.5" core. It will mount inside the spacer as shown. The dual fan is from a Ford Contour. It fits pretty good and only requires some plastic grinding to get into place. The whole setup should be removable with 4 bolts into the core support. It will get cleaned up and powder coated before final install.

IMPALAMAN1

Any pics of the inter cooler mounting and other side? Are you gound to run a/c I beleive the original condenser fits in front of the core support. Make for a super stealth look from the front of the car.

alocker

iTrader: (10)

The intercooler is not welded up yet so no pics. No AC either but the intercooler should still be hard to see since it will be painted black.

Jimbo1367

Good progress. Keep chipping away at it !!!