skylark

I did this thread on a couple of other forums but the build has changed quite a bit. The build is a 93 Chevy C1500 ECSB. I have a less than 5000 mile 5.3. It has been sitting since 1999. I had planned to strip the engine down inspect and reseal it. I bought a comp 212 218 .522 .529 cam, home brew cold air induction, Schoenfeld LS swap headers and I will do 3" exhaust with magnaflo mufflers out the back. I have a Walbro 255 fuel pump and I was planning on LS 6 springs and hardened pushrods. I don't want to have to do anything other than normal routine maintenance for the next 100k miles.

Then I got stupid. I bought a side mount Whipple (it came with 39# injectors). The worthless whippletronics system is gone. I am thinking of somewhere in the neighborhood of 6 to 8 pounds of boost. I will have it mail order tuned by Nelson on a 411 computer.dum

Knowing that I would kill my NV3500, I bought a T56 transmission from a 99 WS6. It came with a spec stage 1 clutch, spec aluminum flywheel and a short throw shifter. I need to find a front shift conversion kit but I haven't had any luck yet. I will also build a 14 bolt semi float rear end with 4.88 gears and an auburn posi.

For reliability and simple overlooked performance what should I change or add to this build?

skylark

No lovin for the truck guy?

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

The 8.5" axle from a half ton of that era will handle more power than you are looking at, it is 12-bolt equivalent. I wouldn't do the 14-bolt unless you have some odd use in mind or heavy dragstrip use.

The 90s 8.5" is fine in the Caprice and Impala to about mid 11s before hard launches start hurting it.

What tire size?

skylark

275/50/17 almost 28" tall. I have the 14 sf with a disc brake conversion and the posi left overfrom a previous project and the 10 bolt housing has issues.

Paul Bell

iTrader: (9)

Welcome Skylark! Six posts from 2006? I hope to see more of you with this build!

As this is more of an entire drivetrain conversion, you're better here in the conversions section than the internal engine section.

Post up some pictures!

skylark

Long time lurker. I hed a nicely built C5 back in the day. I wasn't quite sure where to put this. Mostly because most of my questions are gen 3 engine related.

1989GTA

I agree that the 8.5" ten bolt can handle a lot of power.

bczee

iTrader: (12)

8.5" have been know to take a car into the low 9's... if built correctly. I have a 8.5" in my 71 Nova. I have updated it with a 30 spline Eaton Posi with matching Strange Axles. It should handle almost anything I can throw at it.

But if you have the Corp 14 bolt and the means and funds to do a built on it.. then go for it... But the weight is a minus.

skylark

Thanks for the input on the rear end!

My biggest concern is the engine longevity. I have had a couple of turbo diesel trucks but I never "built" them. I understand the the 5.3 is strong enough. Do I need to gap the rings wider for boost? Are 39# injectors big enough? Do I need more oiling? Should I use a different head gasket and head studs? Is there an upgraded bearing that handles boost better.?

skylark

Any thoughts on the engine build?

66Chevellelq4

Im not sure how long those injectors will last when you start swapping pulleys and upping boost... you know you will. Some guys gap rings, some dont, if you dont gap them just be safe with your timing and most people dont ever seem to have a problem. With your "low" boost goal i wouldnt mess with head studs or a new gasket set yet, if they ever do let go you can go expensive with some arp studs or get cheap ebay ones and some ls9 gaskets or mls style gaskets and your back in business.

Envy

I love me some turbo diesel trucks, but the LS is a different animal, especially because the motors are a dime a dozen. I just built a $200 5.3L that I got from a guy who said it just needed gaskets, I tore it all apart and found out it needed far more than that as it was a test mule at his tech college. I bored it to 5.7L, LS1 rotating assembly, 799 heads, L33 cam, LS6 springs, LS9 gaskets and ARP rod bolts and studs, new bearings, rings, lifters, timing chain, seals, etc.... Fast forward to today, I have about $2000 into a motor that I'm now not even going to boost, and can't really benefit from the 300hp I'll be pushing as my Toyota axle shafts don't like brute force.

Had I to do it over, I would've bought a known good 5.3L and swapped it right in, run it until you break it. If you want more power, upgrade to a 6.0L, than you at least have the 4" bore to start with rather than the small bore that's limited to <4" and you're not out $3000 if you melt anything down, not to mention you're still putting down as much power as my iron block LS6, and you have the ability to bolt-on LS3/L92 parts, as well access to the aftermarket.

Hope that helps.

skylark

I found the info I was looking for on gapping the rings. Boosted engines should have .006 gap for every inch of bore. That being said, I see a lot of guys running .028 gap on the first and second rings.

Any thoughts on bearings?