When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
There are some people who use the spare as skinnies up front when drag racing. In fact I use one(similar) for the spare tire and when racing. You should easily recoup your costs.
Seems like a shame that I sold it, but I sold the engine, trans, harness, etc needed for a swap today... Only took 2 days, and I didn't even get a chance to advertise publically.
I ended up taking a little less for the engine/trans set up BUT, as part of the deal for taking what I took, i told the guy that he had to pull it out. Works out great for me, and I've already collected the cash. I've recovered about 80% on what I spent on the car already. I'll start parting out what I'm not going to keep, and ending up making a bit of $$ in the end on the whole deal by the time the car is parted out and scrapped.
I know I'll keep the seats, I'm debating maybe keeping the fuel tank/pump and putting it over the rear axle hump in the trunk (seen it done before)... Dash and door panels, I'm debating, I don't know if I have the skills/patience to try that swap. I was seriously considering trying to swap the irs in also, but idk.
In other news, sounds like my cylinder heads are almost done, just need blending and a trip to the machine shop for a valve job.
I know I need a 120 ohm restistor across pins 6 and 14, but resistors come in several different wattages like 1/4w, 1/2w, etc... Does that matter which one I use? I've never seen that mentioned, just that it had to be 120 ohm.
Also, if I go the TUTD (corvette style) route and add a wire to pin 7 on the trans connector, how exactly does that work? Any links to operation? being only one wire I would adding power shifts up, and grounding it shifts down? Just a wild guess. I know I would have to have the vette Os/program(?) flashed into the TCM for this to work?
Heads are at the machine shop now that porting is finished! I imagine I should get them within the next couple weeks and then it will be back to putting the engine together and ripping the front of the car off.
1/4W should be just fine. There is very little current in the communication wires.
Regarding the TUTD. As you probably know I have the 2011 Corvette program in my car. Anyways I was looking at the TUTD tables the other day and one of the things to click on is a "hard wired" TUTD signal. I don't know if the other software programs have that or not. IMHO that is if you do not have a BCM.
Also the TUTD signal is an array of resistors and switches that supply a certain voltage to the purple wire going to pin 7 of the transmission. Depending on what the voltage reading is the transmission will act accordingly. There are schematics on the internet showing the circuitry. There are people who now supply the TUTD shifters. One option is to have the TUTD on the steering wheel and another on a floor shifter. You are at the point that you can go either way.
1/4W should be just fine. There is very little current in the communication wires.
Regarding the TUTD. As you probably know I have the 2011 Corvette program in my car. Anyways I was looking at the TUTD tables the other day and one of the things to click on is a "hard wired" TUTD signal. I don't know if the other software programs have that or not. IMHO that is if you do not have a BCM.
Also the TUTD signal is an array of resistors and switches that supply a certain voltage to the purple wire going to pin 7 of the transmission. Depending on what the voltage reading is the transmission will act accordingly. There are schematics on the internet showing the circuitry. There are people who now supply the TUTD shifters. One option is to have the TUTD on the steering wheel and another on a floor shifter. You are at the point that you can go either way.
Thanks for the info on everything...
After hours of research, I've got a few theories on how to make the TUTD work w/ and w/o going to the Vette program/OS... So I'm guessing you had to have both the ECM and the TCM in your car flashed to vette stuff so it would all work? It seems like most people trying to do just the TCM get OS mismatch problems? Furthermore, it doesn't look like HP Tuners will give me the ability to do the vette thing? Seems EFI Live may? But there's still the issue with the OS/vin mismatch if I do the TCM only?
I did find the schematic for the corvette TUTD. After some searching I came across some good G8 info where a guy was able to add working paddle shifters to his steering wheel by tapping into the G8 shifter. By comparing the Vette schematic with that the guy claimed about the G8 shifter, it seems the g8 shifter has a similar circuitry built into the sport mode section as the Vette TUTD, and it appears the G8 shifter supplies the same voltage outputs to the BCM on the G8 as the Vette controls do directly to the transmission...
So in theory an easy way to go for a guy wanting TUTD with the Vette program installed is to just run the G8 (and possibly the 14-15 Chevy SS) shifter and it will probably work as a ratchet style TUTD vs trying to replicate the Vette paddle shifter circuitry.
I was going to just go with the stock column shifter, but now I 'm going to be running the GTO seats, so I figured I might as well go with some kind of floor shifter.
So if I'm thinking right, I would have to flash the Vette OS/program into both my ECM and TCM to make that work? If I do that, looking at the Vette ECM X1 and X2 pin out vs the G8 several wires are not the same, I'm guessing I would have to repin the plugs on my harness to match the Vette layout for everything to work?
If that's true, I may go a different direction with the TUTD. I have an Arduino Uno and CANbus shield I should be able to use that in my running G8 driver to monitor the CANbus for the packets it sends from the BCM to the TCM when in sport mode, and for a manual up shift and down shift. Once I figure those out, I should be able to use a similar setup in my Chevelle to "simulate" the BCM CANbus signals to the TCM for sport mode, up and down shifting. In my mind I don't see why it wouldn't work?
In my hours of searching I've found what goes over the canbus in a G8 for drive normal mode vs drive sport mode:
So that's a good start on what to watch for. If I can figure out the up and down shift strings, it should be as simple as writing a program for the Arduino + CAN shield to send the proper strings over the CAN system based off the inputs from the shifter to go into sport mode, up or down shift...
Yes, I had to have both the TCU and ECM reprogrammed to the 2011 Corvette program. I am using HP Tuners and I do not have a problem accessing if that is what you mean. I did send both the ECM and TCU to Speartech to get reprogrammed.
One of the main reasons I went with HP Tuners is that their program is suppose to work better on the 6L80 transmissions than EFI Live. I don't know if that is still true or not. At the time of my purchase that's what most were saying.
If you can stay with the G8 program so much the better. That way you will know everything will match. The main reason I went with the 2011 Corvette program was do to the better shifting according to John at Speartech and I had a 2010 6L80 transmission. The compatibility thing.
Well, my Bo White ported LS3 heads will be here tomorrow and I will be able to put the engine back together. Still have to sort out the oil pan situation. I need to get off my butt and pull the old engine out of the car and take the front clip off so I can see if that modified truck pan is going to work, or if I need to break down and buy the Holley pan.
Haven't made any progress with the CANbus system project, I've got some preliminary info to sort through, but I need to really get out and drive my G8 and log some new data. Unfortunately the G8 has been down the last 2 weeks while I do a DOD delete, and cam swap. What should have been an fairly easy project has turned into nightmare after nightmare, with the current one being no oil pressure, so I've torn the front of the engine back off to assess the pump/o-ring situation. That's next weekends project, getting that back together and back on the road.
Do the GTO seats use the stock bolt location as the Chevelle or did you have to change the bracket location? Are there other options of take out seats that I can look at too?
The guy I bought my '71 from did the old school method of just taking out the bench and drilling holes in the floor. I ended up welding the brackets into the floor since I plan on autocross racing the car and dont want to end up on the track sitting in the seat!!!
Do the GTO seats use the stock bolt location as the Chevelle or did you have to change the bracket location? Are there other options of take out seats that I can look at too?
The guy I bought my '71 from did the old school method of just taking out the bench and drilling holes in the floor. I ended up welding the brackets into the floor since I plan on autocross racing the car and dont want to end up on the track sitting in the seat!!!
I have not put them in yet, but I can tell there will be a little work involved. Not just bolt in and go. I haven't looked close enough yet to see what route I'm going to end up taking yet. 1989GTA has GTO front seats in his 65 Skylark with some decent pictures?
Made some progress today. I was able to talk my cousin into helping me pull the front clip off the car after work today. Easiest front clip removal I've ever done! This will surely make life easy with test fitting etc, and finishing the brake setup on the driver's side.
Change of plans, in the name of saving time and effort, I finally broke down and bought a Holley 302-2 oil pan, and I bought some engine mount adapter plates as well...
Came across a screamin deal on some Flowmaster #814116 swap headers on Amazon. They were a "damage" return item, so I was able to buy them for $351 shipped. The are some slight scratches in the coating on the drivers side header, and the gaskets were missing, but for the savings, I'm good with it. You'll never see the "damage" once they are installed.
I bought these motor mount adapter plates on amazon also, only $29... I figured they were cheap enough that it wouldn't hurt my feelings if they ended up not working.
I decided that I didn't have enough time to get all the factory EFI in and working, and hack up the floor pan to install the 6L80e... I'm thinking I will just race the car for the summer, keep it simple. So I also picked up a holley 300-131 intake and an MSD 6012 box... I will either run a carb, or I will pull the trigger on the FiTech 600hp unit. I'll stick with the TH350 that's currently in the car, I have a 3500 stall converter for it... Won't have to change the driveline, or screw with anything time consuming or costly really.
I've got the driver's side front GTO bucket torn apart right now to straighten the seat base out, it got a pretty good twist in it from the accident the car was in that the seats came out of... figure I'll just install the two seats and carpet, and go racing.
I also picked up an L92 the other day... So now I have to decide whether to stick with the 6.0, or go with the L92... Or run the 6.0 and rebuild the 6.2 and get everything ready to run proper factory EFI stuff and install next winter.
I am doing a 2008 G8GT swap into my 66 Chevelle Malibu. I have everything physically in place and am hooking up wiring, exhaust and driveshaft currently.
I have a couple of questions about the G* shifter pinouts and could use a little help. is anyone out there?
Where do you need the pinouts? I see shift references in the X102 body harness, probably running up to the shifter, and I see pinout's for the transmission plug.
I am doing a 2008 G8GT swap into my 66 Chevelle Malibu. I have everything physically in place and am hooking up wiring, exhaust and driveshaft currently.
I have a couple of questions about the G* shifter pinouts and could use a little help. is anyone out there?
Sorry I'm late, here's the shift lever pinouts for a 2008 G8GT
I put a LS3 6L80e in my 50 Chevy coupe. Absolutely love this trans. A good tuner made a new animal out of it. Shifts firm and always in the right gear for the RPM. I had a driveshaft made with an adapter to use the flange on the trans. Less than changing the output shaft and did not have to dis-assemble the trans. I will try to attach a photo.
I have 5000 miles on this set up and have hammered it. No problems
I widened the firewall setback to give me more room and look better. These old Chevys just came with straight 6.
Anymore pictures of the driveshaft and connections to transmission and rear end and any part numbers. Looks like the Spicer adapter? Any vibration issues?
07-03-2015, 04:09 PM
