Suggested drop on S10
03-30-2015, 11:12 AM
#1
Suggested drop on S10 I want to order some rear end parts today like Ubolts and spring plates. I also want to buy the Ubolts long enough and the lowering blocks at the same time. I could wait to get it on the ground, but may have to buy parts 2 times. Like the Ubolts.
I was curious on how much drop might be good for this truck. I know a lot of you have experience with the S10's so I figured I could ask before doing trial and error stuff. Some have seen my build thread, 97 S10 with a 6.0. I am going to be running the 28/11.50 x 15 MT ET Street Radial tire. So I think its 1" taller than a stock tire, roughly. No I cant set it down on my stock set because I have a9" rear now with a different bolt pattern. Have no wheels for that pattern yet. Anyways, The section width is 11" at the bulge on an 8" wheel. I want to run a 10" wheel so I need to see what the section width is on that wheel and make sure its going to fit. At 11" it leaves me right at 1" total of clearance between the bed side and the frame. Might have to pull the bed out a little.
Any way, I want to drop the truck obviously, but not too much. Its not a daily driver, more a street strip truck. But I don't want it slammed. Just a nice tuck of the tire into the bed. A good drag stance I guess. And I like the truck to sit level or a slight drop towards the front. I do not want to have to buy a bunch of stuff to drop the front. Maybe just cut the springs I have now and lower it slightly.
So pictures with big rear tires would be great along with how much its dropped. Thanks.
I was curious on how much drop might be good for this truck. I know a lot of you have experience with the S10's so I figured I could ask before doing trial and error stuff. Some have seen my build thread, 97 S10 with a 6.0. I am going to be running the 28/11.50 x 15 MT ET Street Radial tire. So I think its 1" taller than a stock tire, roughly. No I cant set it down on my stock set because I have a9" rear now with a different bolt pattern. Have no wheels for that pattern yet. Anyways, The section width is 11" at the bulge on an 8" wheel. I want to run a 10" wheel so I need to see what the section width is on that wheel and make sure its going to fit. At 11" it leaves me right at 1" total of clearance between the bed side and the frame. Might have to pull the bed out a little.
Any way, I want to drop the truck obviously, but not too much. Its not a daily driver, more a street strip truck. But I don't want it slammed. Just a nice tuck of the tire into the bed. A good drag stance I guess. And I like the truck to sit level or a slight drop towards the front. I do not want to have to buy a bunch of stuff to drop the front. Maybe just cut the springs I have now and lower it slightly.
So pictures with big rear tires would be great along with how much its dropped. Thanks.
03-30-2015, 11:28 AM
#2
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I believe that you dont want to use a lowering block over 2 inches as partly do to pinion angle. It would more be safer to change out spring hangers or take a spring out of leaf pack. If your stock bolts work at moment set it down to get more accurate on how low you want to be. also may need shorter shocks when finished.
03-30-2015, 11:39 AM
#3
I am setting the pinion angle when I get it on the ground. I haven't welded the mount to the rear end yet. So all of this is in limbo right now. I need the wheels and tires to get it on the ground, but I need the right blocks and U-bolt lengths the be able to put it on the ground. I have to have the complete ride height done and sitting where I want it so I can set the pinion angle. So I am looking for ideas on ride heights. I am thinking about 3 inches in the rear might be plenty. I don't want it slammed. But I don't like the wheel opening to be over the top of the rear tires. I hate that look.
03-30-2015, 11:50 AM
#4
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I understand what your doing, anything to drastic people C channel frame on trucks usually on 3 inches or more. I think you probably get most of what you want with block & bolts. if not pull a spring out of pack later really wont change pinion angle. make ride a little softer too.
03-30-2015, 11:52 AM
#5
Generally speaking, 2" drop spindles in the front and 3" block in rear will level the truck. But with 1" taller tires, it might be the perfect rake.
I did a 2-3 on my most recent s10 and the front sits too high (heavy springs), even with staggered tires.
If it were mine, I would put spindles on the front, and fab the rear to get the rake I want. Figure out how to set the rear end on blocks (or jackstands) at the height the tires and wheels would put it at and go from there.
This is mine with approximately 27" tall tire. 2" drop spindles in front with 3" blocks in rear.
[IMG]
[/IMG]
I did a 2-3 on my most recent s10 and the front sits too high (heavy springs), even with staggered tires.
If it were mine, I would put spindles on the front, and fab the rear to get the rake I want. Figure out how to set the rear end on blocks (or jackstands) at the height the tires and wheels would put it at and go from there.
This is mine with approximately 27" tall tire. 2" drop spindles in front with 3" blocks in rear.
[IMG]
[/IMG] Last edited by Bowtie316; 03-30-2015 at 12:11 PM.
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03-31-2015, 03:31 PM
#8
Dang you Hellbent. LOL. That's the look I like right there. I figured it was going to be quite a bit of drop. Did you have to notch the rear frame for the axle? I don't want to mess with a body drop. So maybe the 3 inch lowering springs and 2 inch blocks to see where that gets me. Plus 2"drop spindles and 2" drop springs up front.
I also like the green truck as well. I might not have to go as far as I think with it.
Thanks for the pics guys. I bought 2" blocks today with the U-bolts and spring plates so I could try and mock it up this weekend. I already thought about the springs in the rear as well. I need new bushings in mine which are about 70.00 for the set or I can get the bushings with new lowering springs for 210.00. Seems like a no brainer to get the new springs.
I also like the green truck as well. I might not have to go as far as I think with it.
Thanks for the pics guys. I bought 2" blocks today with the U-bolts and spring plates so I could try and mock it up this weekend. I already thought about the springs in the rear as well. I need new bushings in mine which are about 70.00 for the set or I can get the bushings with new lowering springs for 210.00. Seems like a no brainer to get the new springs.
03-31-2015, 03:54 PM
#10
Dang you Hellbent. LOL. That's the look I like right there. I figured it was going to be quite a bit of drop. Did you have to notch the rear frame for the axle? I don't want to mess with a body drop. So maybe the 3 inch lowering springs and 2 inch blocks to see where that gets me. Plus 2"drop spindles and 2" drop springs up front.
I also like the green truck as well. I might not have to go as far as I think with it.
Thanks for the pics guys. I bought 2" blocks today with the U-bolts and spring plates so I could try and mock it up this weekend. I already thought about the springs in the rear as well. I need new bushings in mine which are about 70.00 for the set or I can get the bushings with new lowering springs for 210.00. Seems like a no brainer to get the new springs.
I also like the green truck as well. I might not have to go as far as I think with it.
Thanks for the pics guys. I bought 2" blocks today with the U-bolts and spring plates so I could try and mock it up this weekend. I already thought about the springs in the rear as well. I need new bushings in mine which are about 70.00 for the set or I can get the bushings with new lowering springs for 210.00. Seems like a no brainer to get the new springs.
04-01-2015, 10:59 AM
#11
I already had 3" blocks under my '87 S-10 2WD when I did the Explorer axle a few months ago, I used the Explorer spring plates because of trying to bend the U-bolts to fit through the S10 plates ( no CalTracs bars yet ) and ended up with the plates themselves hanging below my 16" wheels, from a '94 Z28 ( redrilled the Explorer shafts and brakes to GM lug pattern ) which will be bad if I get a flat.
The 15x7s from 4x4 s-10s should have enough positive offset for this swap, and would fit 275/60R15 drag radials.
I test-fitted some OEWheels 19x10s, those are an excellent fit, with the tiny plastic flares GM fitted to some square-body S-10s, Should fit 285/45s without mini-tubbing.
In this case, my own next move is a new pair of de-arched steel leaf spring packs. I like the 3" drop, but I'm running 245/50R16s all around, and it's sitting level with the 2.5L front springs carrying my 4.8L LSx.
I just can't get any exhaust manifold to clear the steering shaft, looks like a different shaft is needed?
Anyway, I only read the first post before deciding I should follow your thread.
The 15x7s from 4x4 s-10s should have enough positive offset for this swap, and would fit 275/60R15 drag radials.
I test-fitted some OEWheels 19x10s, those are an excellent fit, with the tiny plastic flares GM fitted to some square-body S-10s, Should fit 285/45s without mini-tubbing.
In this case, my own next move is a new pair of de-arched steel leaf spring packs. I like the 3" drop, but I'm running 245/50R16s all around, and it's sitting level with the 2.5L front springs carrying my 4.8L LSx.
I just can't get any exhaust manifold to clear the steering shaft, looks like a different shaft is needed?
Anyway, I only read the first post before deciding I should follow your thread.
04-01-2015, 02:03 PM
#14
Just ordered the 3" drop leaf springs. I will see where that gets me once I get the wheels and tires and can put it on the ground. With the stock 2.2L springs up front and now having a 6.0L engine and bigger trany, it should drop the front end some already. I will get the spindles and new springs then if needed. It needs springs anyway, it has the S10 lean. Looks like crap. Like one of the control arms are stuck. But they aren't.