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BRP 6L90 Trans crossmember: overall it's not bad, but apparently for the wagon they know the holes won't line up yet that's a secret they keep until you call them and ask about the fitment. The holes had to be reamed out to 1/2" on the drivers side and an elongated 1/2" by apex 3/4" on the passengers side. I tried to post pics, but that doesn't seem to be working at the moment. I'll post them when I can.
Couple of misinfos on here , you can use whatever pan you wish on your ly6 -l96 [ the l96 is an updated ly6 with larger injectors for flex fuel , and other upgrades that boost horsepower and drivability , exhaust manifold changes , exc ] . The oil bypass in the pan is for dod -afm , operation , something most performance engines should eliminate , your l96 thankfully does not have dod-afm .
vvt is a great thing on a street driven vehicle ,,, it does broaden you torque curve , an excellent choice for a heavy vehicle like you are swapping into ,,, I would keep it stock as possable ,, these engine came in 3500 four door trucks with dual axils , and they pushed those vehicles down the road quite well , your wagon is thousands of pounds lighter , it will pull like a train and make you feel like you are flying . Also it will run like a Swiss watch , put a nice exhaust on it and it will sound and run awesome .
If I pay for shipping, can I have that sweet bench seat cover?
Hell yes! It's covering quite the customer duct tape job.
Originally Posted by ijimmy
Couple of misinfos on here , you can use whatever pan you wish on your ly6 -l96 [ the l96 is an updated ly6 with larger injectors for flex fuel , and other upgrades that boost horsepower and drivability , exhaust manifold changes , exc ] . The oil bypass in the pan is for dod -afm , operation , something most performance engines should eliminate , your l96 thankfully does not have dod-afm .
vvt is a great thing on a street driven vehicle ,,, it does broaden you torque curve , an excellent choice for a heavy vehicle like you are swapping into ,,, I would keep it stock as possable ,, these engine came in 3500 four door trucks with dual axils , and they pushed those vehicles down the road quite well , your wagon is thousands of pounds lighter , it will pull like a train and make you feel like you are flying . Also it will run like a Swiss watch , put a nice exhaust on it and it will sound and run awesome .
Thanks for the info. I thought VVT had to have the bypass. I hadn't gotten to the point of pulling the pan just yet, but I may be able to use my autokraft pan after all. For now, this will be more of a cruiser/daily driver. The truck manifolds are too big, so I'm looking at a set of Camaro manifolds, worst case, I think a local dealer has them for $250/set. So, about $125 a side is the best I've found new and there are some online a bit cheaper for used manifolds.
The truck manifolds are too big, so I'm looking at a set of Camaro manifolds, worst case, I think a local dealer has them for $250/set. So, about $125 a side is the best I've found new and there are some online a bit cheaper for used manifolds.
Watch the classifieds on here, I just bought a set of F-body exhaust manifolds shipped to my door for $45. They come up pretty often. You could also put a wanted to buy ad up in the parts wanted section.
Installed the F-body drivers manifold, which is the side I was having clearance issues with. It doesn't really fit that much better than the truck manifold did, so definitely not worth the money. At this point I'm thinking about using the Hooker manifolds as they look to have better clearance than this one did.
GM F-body p/n's: 12611638 and 12611639.
From below
From above, you can see how it barely clears the distribution block.
They won't, 16" minimum and then select carefully. even with 17" the wheel shape can cause interference on the outboard surface of the front caliper. Best tire selection will be in 17" and 18" sizes.
You know how sometimes you just have to see things for yourself even though you know better? Well, I pulled apart the drivers side hub and wanted to see how far off the F-body brakes were in comparison to the 15" wheels. It actually looked like that with a 1" spacer it could actually work. Since these aren't original Rally wheels, I'm not that beholden to them, so they will be swapped out for a set of 16's or 17's. It depends on what size tire I decide to go with and what is available. I was kicking around the idea of a set of BBS mesh wheels circa 1987 or IROCs of the same vintage with modern sizing.
Here are some pics of the Hooker 8501 HKR's. Overall they fit much better. The passengers side hits the heat shield on the starter and it looks like there is a tab on the 6L90 that might interfere on the drivers side. The plus on the driver's side is that it has plenty of room between the edge of the manifold and the brake distribution block.
I am looking at utilizing the factory sending unit and noticed on the Speedway filter/regulator kit that the AN fittings might work on the factory pickup. I would have to shorten the end of the shaft a little bit to be in line with the length on the supplied piece, but is there any reason this would not work? It looks like the flare is big enough to retain the fitting. Thoughts?
The factory sending unit fuel tubing does not fit as snugly inside this connector as the pictured Russell piece does. This will likely be my return line, so I'll probably just flare it with a connector and be done with it.
The latter two items are from a 98-02 F-body, the steering gear is the Jeep Grand Cherokee box. I was going to do the MCSS box, but those things have gotten really expensive.
I am looking at utilizing the factory sending unit and noticed on the Speedway filter/regulator kit that the AN fittings might work on the factory pickup. I would have to shorten the end of the shaft a little bit to be in line with the length on the supplied piece, but is there any reason this would not work? It looks like the flare is big enough to retain the fitting. Thoughts?
I didn't like the way that Speedway fitting looked when I did mine...
this is the route I went...37* fitting from Swagelok...looked MUCH safer to me...
Fuel Related
AC Delco EP 381electric fuel pump
AC Delco FP51 electric fuel pump harness
AC Delco TS7 strainer
Push Through Fuel Cap - Tanks Inc: p/n PTCK
6 Hole Bolt-in Pickup Kit - Tanks Inc: p/n 3tr, 3g-n, nbo, 6HPT
PA Series Pump Weld In Recess - Tanks Inc.: p/n PA-REC; If my tank guy can put this in and make it feasible to use, then I will likely go this route. You can extend the PA Series Pump assembly to the needed height, which in this case, I'm going to need about 22" of depth. If it's too cost prohibitive or cannot otherwise be done, I'll do with the aforementioned 6 hole bolt-in pickup. Was hoping to have the Tanks Inc. stuff for the weekend and when I asked yesterday if it would be shipped yesterday, I was told that it would, but apparently there was some miscommunication on their part and I likely won't be getting it until next week some time.
Received the radiator today, it was busted. Came from autozone.com, and they didn't do any additional packaging so to flopped around in the box and busted the radiator overflow nipple. They let me take it to a store to swap it out, which was cool. Set it in and it will clear with no issues. A little modification is necessary, but it's all minor. I really could use a picture of a 98-02 core support on the radiator side with no radiator in it. I want to see if I can leverage any of the existing mounting brackets or if it's even worth it.
05-13-2015, 12:17 AM
