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Since the swap kit has been ordered, I figure I'll start a build thread. For the most part, I'll be using applicable parts that I used on the Firebird build. I will also be updating this first post of the thread with pertinent information and part numbers. I find it is easier to get to info if it's consolidated in one place, especially if this thread becomes as long as some of the other well documented threads I've seen.
Start Date: 5/8/2015
End Date: Are we ever really done?
Victim: 1970 Chevelle Greenbrier Wagon
Classic white, blue metallic interior, 79k original miles on the 307 w/TH350, putting out a whopping 200 hp back in 1970.
Engine: 6.0 L96 w/VVT from 2014 Express Van 3500 w/apx. 2,000 miles.
Trans: 6L90E from same vehicle
Harness: reworked harness by Stu and the boys at justchevytrucks.com, it was part of the dropout package.
Engine Related:
BRP Hotrods LS Swap Kit. p/n: 201-0002-89 LS and 6L80E or 6L90E
Modified Truck Oil Pan: since I'm keeping the VVT, I'm going to have the fab guy doing the trans pan shorten the truck pan, or at least that is the plan. I have an Autokraft pan I bought for the Firebird, but that wouldn't fit with the swap kit and the pan is not designed for the VVT, so, it's just sitting there collecting dust (I have been told that this is not the case and that the VVT does not have the pressure relief valve, so once I pull the pan off, I can verify and maybe I can actually use the AK pan.
Exhaust Related:
GM F-body p/n's: 12611638 and 12611639 - These did not work. At least the driver's side did not, and that's where I had the issue. Sit's almost as close as the truck manifold did. From AboveFrom Below
Trans Related:
Pontiac G8 Trans Pan: p/n 24239528 - Pan graft complete, overall it looks good and will work. Pre-surgery pics
Kugel Komponents Kit shifter from Shiftworks: p/n #KK02
BRP 6L90 Trans crossmember: overall it's not bad, but apparently for the wagon they know the holes won't line up yet that's a secret they keep until you call them and ask about the fitment. The holes had to be reamed out to 1/2" on the drivers side and an elongated 1/2" by apex 3/4" on the passengers side.
Cooling:
Radiator: Spectra Premium CU1486
Fans: Dorman 620-634
Radiator and fans are stock replacement parts for 98-02 F-body
PT2304 fan wiring harnesses for the F-body fans
Lower radiator isolator pads: p/n's 1027-8679 (square pad) and 10188023 (round o-ring type)
Wheels:
Boyd Junk Yard Dog 17x8 w/4.5BS
225/50r17 - front
255/50r17 - rear
considering 275/40r17 on all 4 corners
Brakes:
Calipers, rotors, and backing plates from 2002 Camaro SS
BRP Disc Spindle Hub Kit: p/n 012-3101-00
BRP Rear Caliper Bracket: p/n 012-3400-00
Steering:
Steering Gear: Autozone/Duralast p/n 7525
Rag Joint: Dorman 31011
P-S-T Polygraphite Super Front End Kit: p/n FEKSPBUI664
Centerlink - Moog DS749
Fuel Delivery:
AC Delco EP 381electric fuel pump
AC Delco FP51 electric fuel pump harness
AC Delco TS7 strainer
Push Through Fuel Cap - Tanks Inc: p/n PTCK
6 Hole Bolt-in Pickup Kit - Tanks Inc: p/n 3tr, 3g-n, nbo, 6HPT
PA Series Pump Weld In Recess - Tanks Inc.: p/n PA-REC; If my tank guy can put this in and make it feasible to use, then I will likely go this route. You can extend the PA Series Pump assembly to the needed height, which in this case, I'm going to need about 22" of depth. If it's too cost prohibitive or cannot otherwise be done, I'll do with the aforementioned 6 hole bolt-in pickup.
Suspension:
Bilstein Rear Shocks: p/n F4BE5E250M0 (f.k.a. AK1044)
UMI rear control arm kit: p/n ABR813 (added adjustable upper control arms)
UMI 1.25" front sway bar: p/n 4035
QA1 GE401-450B front coil overs as well as thrust bearings and wrench
UMI rear springs at factory ride height: p/n 4049R
Intake:
Spectre 901234K CAI (lightly used)
Spectre 9705 MAF tube to integrate the 5 wire non-LS7 MAFS into this CAI.
Misc. Parts:
Energy Suspension 3.4170G Urethane body mount kit with extra parts to connect b-pillar pushing
To Do List:
Drivetrain:
Auburn Limited Slip: p/n 5420108
Richmond Ring and Pinon - 3.08's: p/n 4900111
Richmond Mega Differential Rebuild Kit: p/n 83-1022-M
Driveshaft Shop CV front driveshaft setup
Body:
Paint and bodywork. I'll likely go with the non-op SS hood and a Cortez Silver w/Black SS stripes
Heating and Cooling:
Vintage Air Surefit System
Possibly a rear air/heat and defrost unit, still TBD
Wheels:
May keep the 15" Rally's if they will fit over the F-body brakes without interference.
Interior:
Leaning towards Cadillac front bench
Redo the factory rear fold-down seat, but adding 3 pt belt system
Speedo: Likely the Dakota Digital EDC box
Gauges: Edge CTS for ODBII cars which displays up to 15 PIDS
Other Ideas:
Currently Shelved:
I'm looking to do a suspension lift and give it a little bit of an off-road/pre-run vibe. Maybe 31s or 33s. Looks like the only place to get lift kits so to speak are the "donk" guys. While I considered a 2" body lift from a 73-91 Suburban, I think I'm leaning towards suspension only. Utilizing lift springs and shocks, or off-road coil overs, and maybe modified upper A-arm and/or lift spindle. If anyone has experience lifting cars, chime in, I'd love to get more info.
That motor already has VVT but a lot of people recommend deleting it when going to a performance cam. The R&D from the Camaro L99 has advanced tuning where for a NA application you are leaving a bunch of area under the curve on the table if you delete the VVT. Check out the camaro5 site for results. Huge gain in power with no loss of torque down low.
Good call on the CV driveshaft. The BRP mounts will definitely position the engine fairly high in the front, which will jack up your driveline angles, especially if you plan on lowering the rear ride height.
That motor already has VVT but a lot of people recommend deleting it when going to a performance cam. The R&D from the Camaro L99 has advanced tuning where for a NA application you are leaving a bunch of area under the curve on the table if you delete the VVT. Check out the camaro5 site for results. Huge gain in power with no loss of torque down low.
May keep the 15" Rally's if they will fit over the F-body brakes without interference.
They won't, 16" minimum and then select carefully. even with 17" the wheel shape can cause interference on the outboard surface of the front caliper. Best tire selection will be in 17" and 18" sizes.
They won't, 16" minimum and then select carefully. even with 17" the wheel shape can cause interference on the outboard surface of the front caliper. Best tire selection will be in 17" and 18" sizes.
I thought there were some over on Chevelles that had been able to use the 15" with the F-Body brakes. If not, I'll go bigger. I think that 16X8 is the widest matching front and rears for it at 16:. But that's all a little bit down eh road.
I love the wagons. As money allows I'm putting a ls2/t56 in my 63,chevy II wagon. Got the big parts purchased now on to all the little things that nickel and dime us to death.
I thought there were some over on Chevelles that had been able to use the 15" with the F-Body brakes. If not, I'll go bigger. I think that 16X8 is the widest matching front and rears for it at 16:. But that's all a little bit down eh road.
You might look at the Year One 17" Rally Wheels. They would look sweet on there. I believe they will clear 13" brakes.
Good call on the CV driveshaft. The BRP mounts will definitely position the engine fairly high in the front, which will jack up your driveline angles, especially if you plan on lowering the rear ride height.
Andrew
Yeah, I started really looking into it as a result of both you and Ken.
Originally Posted by Project GatTagO
You can easily run 275/40/17s all the way around.
Andrew
I was hoping for a little more side profile, but I'll take what I can get.
Originally Posted by Hawk465
You might look at the Year One 17" Rally Wheels. They would look sweet on there. I believe they will clear 13" brakes.
Y1 does some nice stuff, just not sure how a set of rally's are going to look with a lower profile set of tires, but that would definitely help me stick with a "plane Jane" approach.
OK, tons more progress today. As you can see, the body and frame were divorced. The only casualty was the e brake cable. Not sure how I missed it, but I did. Went pretty smoothly with the only exception being the rear of the frame hanging up on a set of nuts that are part of the storage pan.
The plan for tomorrow is to at least get the 307 out and we'll call it the stretch goal to get the LS motor and trans in there. Once the test fit is done, then the frame will get partially cleaned up, painted, and since the new body bushings don't get here until Monday, I won't be doing anything with them.
One item to note on the wagons is that there is a cushion that's effectively under the b-pillar. GM put a nut in there so you can actually bolt that section of the body to the frame if you want. I need to get the additional hardware to do those two, but it will likely be worth it.
The stock setup was to put a cushion even though you could actually mount at this point in the frame.
Fwiw, I got 2002 camaro z 28 wheels and 4th gen corvette 17" saw blades to clear 13.4" c6 z51 front brakes with roughly 3/8" of space at the tightest spot (outer edge of caliper to wheel). I used 2" spacers. Smaller brakes like stock 4th gen camaro or base c5 will give you plenty of wheel opotions and provide plenty of stopping power.
Before my switch to the z51 brakes, I had 12.14 wilwoods inside trans am GTA 16x8 mesh wheels, and those fit very well too, without spacers.
Motor is in. BRP kit worked pretty good, but it went much easier when I pulled the exhaust manifolds. The truck manifold on the drivers side will be close to the distribution block, but I think that is known.
04-17-2015, 11:43 PM
1970 Chevelle Greenbrier Wagon - L96 w/6L90E 
