Chris6060

Hey guys, so. Title explains the basis of the swap. The questions are:


Whats it gonna take to fuel this beast? Lines? Fittings to convert?
What will be needed from the old harness?
What do I need to do to my frame/crossmember to make the 4L80E fit?
What size of driveshaft will I need?
What does my rear suspension need to be able to take this kind of power?
It has a 9.5" 14-bolt SF rear right now

Thanks guys!

hokeplaya05

iTrader: (3)

since it is a 94, you will have to upgrade the fuel pump, popular upgrade is a walbro 255. if you want to run a supply/return system you can grab a corvette fuel filter which will allow you to do that.

as far as the harness, are you wanting to go with a stand alone harness or re-pin the factory harness for the new motor?

pretty sure the 80e will bolt right up to the factory crossmember, if not you can find a crossmember out of a 2500 that had an 80e. i think you should be able to re-use your driveshaft as well.

rear suspension is fine, i have the same axle in my truck and am doing the same swap. only thing i am doing is throwing a detroit trutrac in it to upgrade from the g80

Chris6060

Fuel pump is definitely going to be upgraded. Return style would be dependent on the engine's fuel rails would it not?

I'm more of wondering what its going to take to hook it all up. What are the threads for the fuel rails on an LS engine and the older stuff so I can order lines and fittings?

I'm going to get a standalone harness or the factory harness out of the '05 modified into a standalone harness.

I don't know if I'm better off getting the crossmember from a 90's 3/4 ton with a 4L80 or to get one from the '05 everythings pulled out of.

Driveshaft won't need a new yoke on it or anything?

My rear leaf springs each have a broken leaf within them. How urgent is this to replace if I'm not hauling anything? Shocks need replacing too but thats not a 1000$ bill like leaf springs.

Chris6060

Bumping this old thread of mine. Looking for more info.

Apologizing for the novel in advance, bear with me here.

Okay, so. Plans are decided.

I had to get my left femur re-broken on the 20th due to a non-union (never healed) when I broke it a year and a half ago. Been working part time limping my way around since January, after 6 months of not being able to walk at all.

Once my legs healed up, I should be able to work full-time. I'm going to cam the motor, valve springs, lifters, etc, do semi-low compression pistons (9:1, 9.5:1?), to future proof it for boost and nice conrods, sticking with the stock crank. Whats a good intake manifold recommendation?

I'm going to get the motor in the truck and running with a nice N/A cam for a while, and get the heads milled, as well as use thinner head gaskets to make up for the low-comp pistons while I'm still running N/A. OR, I'm going to just do Forged Conrods, hypereutectic pistons and then switch to forged pistons later on when I go boosted. I don't know if it's worth the extra 500+$ for forged pistons when I won't necessarily need them until later?

Gonna put a TransGo HD2 or HD3 (manual, what else does this need?) kit in the 4L80E until I boost it, which will obviously require some more building. I want to DD this thing.

Then, later on, I'll pull the engine, switch to a boost cam, put on a set of LSA heads and go from there.

But for now, I need to get this 6.0L built and ready for a nice N/A set up. Looking for around 400-450 RWHP, depending on whats realistic without boost. I don't want to go a stroker route for previously mentioned reasons (no local machine shop, closest one that will do cylinder boring is 2.5 hours away.) There is however, a nice cylinder head shop only 40 minutes away from me that will do basically anything except bore a block.

I've been reading hit and miss things about LS7 lifters, but any other aftermarket options are super expensive, it seems. So how are the LS7 lifters? I mean, I've never heard of a lifter failing in any 'Vette Z06's, and they spin all the way up to 7000RPM, so... I dunno.

What would you guys recommend for a cam? Been looking at cams in the 220-230 duration range, with around .580 - .600 of lift, around 112 LSA for the N/A set up. Thoughts? Heavily considering the TSP 228R. Like I said, I wanna daily drive it. So if you guys think a smaller cam would be better for that, lemme know. I've never built a full size engine before, so any advice is more than welcome.

Also: Out of curiosity, what are my seat options in this truck? I've got the 7 way power drivers seat, but there's pretty much no support for a performance application. I know a few welders and I'm sure we could fab up a mount for an after market seat to keep the power features the truck already has, but I dunno if that's realistic. Thoughts? Either way, what seats or seat would you guys go with?

I definitely want this truck to atleast somewhat handle well (for a 4WD truck). It weight in at right around 5000 lbs, hoping to lose a bit when I replace the fuel tank and do the 4-link the rear. Might Cut out the inner front fenders and do something with something lighter. Some kind of plastic? Gonna gain weight when I sound deaden & insulate the interior though and install a bigger sound system, so. I have an '83 Porsche 944 for the hard cornering, I just want this thing to be able to out-dance the average half ton.

What are my options for the front suspension to stiffen it up on a 4WD?

I'm hoping to 4-link the rear using a universal Parallel 4-link kit from either Ridetech or NFamus, as well as do a watts link instead of a panhard bard, because I like the concept a lot more, and like I said, I know a few welders that would be more than willing to help out. Any opinions on this?

Probably going to do Ridetech's Shockwave Air shocks in the rear, or some coil overs. What do you guys think? I still wanna be able to hook up a 3-4000 lb trailer (at most, probably will never tow more than 2500lbs) to the back of this truck if I ever have to. I spend my winter months snowmobiling in the mountains and still need to be able to tow any sled trailer.