questions before starting turbo build
08-24-2015, 08:18 PM
#1
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questions before starting turbo build hi everyone. I have a 66 el camino and just picked up a 2004 5.3 that has the truck pan and accessories still on it. going to do a carb swap and single turbo set up.
I have been researching all of the oilpan and mount adapters there are. very stressful. I notice that everyone says make sure you get headers that match the mounts. well im not using normal headers. I will be using flipped truck manifolds, so that part doesn't really come into play with me. I also notice that everyone is talking about mounts that move the motor forward, backwards, down and whatever else. can anyone help me pick out a pan and mount setup that will allow me to NOT have to notch the crossmember. from my understanding the other issue with pans is the tierods hit at full lock. as long as its at full lock or near full lock, I am not concerned about it. I can make steering bump stops to prevent this.
-I do not want to have to notch the crossmember.
-I do not care if tie rods hit (as long as its near full lock)
-I do not want to have to cut into firewall (would like motor to stay away from firewall as much as possible)
-I do not care if the motor gets raised an inch.
remember. headers are not an issue here.
thank you in advance.
-kenny
I have been researching all of the oilpan and mount adapters there are. very stressful. I notice that everyone says make sure you get headers that match the mounts. well im not using normal headers. I will be using flipped truck manifolds, so that part doesn't really come into play with me. I also notice that everyone is talking about mounts that move the motor forward, backwards, down and whatever else. can anyone help me pick out a pan and mount setup that will allow me to NOT have to notch the crossmember. from my understanding the other issue with pans is the tierods hit at full lock. as long as its at full lock or near full lock, I am not concerned about it. I can make steering bump stops to prevent this.
-I do not want to have to notch the crossmember.
-I do not care if tie rods hit (as long as its near full lock)
-I do not want to have to cut into firewall (would like motor to stay away from firewall as much as possible)
-I do not care if the motor gets raised an inch.
remember. headers are not an issue here.
thank you in advance.
-kenny
08-24-2015, 09:53 PM
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if I use the dirty dingo mounts. which if I understand correctly, I mount my stock sbc mounts to those and it to the 5.3 and as long as I don't tighten them all the way, I can slide the motor forward and back once its in the car? will I still have crossmember issues with using the stock truck pan? also with the dingo mounts will I have tie rod issues? any guess as to how close to the firewall I will have to be?
08-24-2015, 10:12 PM
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08-25-2015, 04:46 AM
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Yes, leave everything loose to get your front-back position. As far as the pan, there is a ton of info on what works on A-bodies. There is an active thread right now on Chevelles.com. The truck pan will fit but hang below the crossmember. Just get the Holley 302-2 pan and be done and will be about the best you can get for tie rod clearance. If you use the stock trans and trans crosmember the motor will be 1 inch closer to the firewall since the bellhousing flange on an LS is 1" less than a SBC.
08-25-2015, 08:14 AM
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Again. Dirty dingo sliders and the Holley 302-2 oil pan, this will make this as easy as possible. The sliders will allow you to move the motor a bit so you can have it, the trans and the flipped exhaust all mocked up to where you want them together.
Or you can take out the frame stands and weeks then back up where it works best for you. I ended up having to do the latter, plus adding a 3/8 inch plate to raise the motor up a little more. Good luck. Have fun.
Or you can take out the frame stands and weeks then back up where it works best for you. I ended up having to do the latter, plus adding a 3/8 inch plate to raise the motor up a little more. Good luck. Have fun.