'77 c10 swb lots of fab and pics (in progress) - Page 3 - LS1TECH



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'77 c10 swb lots of fab and pics (in progress)

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Old 10-19-2015, 08:11 PM   #41
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Sometimes it is alright to Satisfice. That's a concept where you achieve sufficient satisfaction. In other words, GOOD ENOUGH!

Go with a stock style rubber trans mount. They can be had cheap...like 10 bucks. Even with solid mounts there will be some movement and the last thing you want to do is transfer that twisting force to the tailshaft housing and break it.

Andrew
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Old 10-19-2015, 11:20 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tuskyz28 View Post
What size turbo you plan on running ?
this guy


http://www.vsracing.net/catalog/prod...3802234a2ae92b


69mm with 1.04 ar. i think it might work out ok with 3.50 gears, 3200 stall and the baby ls1 cam 12560965-.500/.500 209/198 ls119.5 117/122


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Originally Posted by Project GatTagO View Post
Sometimes it is alright to Satisfice. That's a concept where you achieve sufficient satisfaction. In other words, GOOD ENOUGH!

Go with a stock style rubber trans mount. They can be had cheap...like 10 bucks. Even with solid mounts there will be some movement and the last thing you want to do is transfer that twisting force to the tailshaft housing and break it.

Andrew


thanks for the vote of confidence. I did find a rubber 4l80e tranny mount in my pile of junk. it appears that it has no safety tabs so if the rubber shears its suddenly two pieces. I might tig on some locking tabs for insurance.


next up is fabbing a trans xmember. wondering if I should bolt the driveshaft hoop to it or make it a separate thing coming over from the frame rail. input on that is greatly appreciated.
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Old 10-20-2015, 06:23 AM   #43
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pm sent
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Old 10-21-2015, 09:59 PM   #44
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the haas was down at school so I got some garage time
after a little head scratching I came up with this for a tranny xmember





found some .120" wall stuff in my pile. Kinda wish I had spotted it for the motor mounts. *shrug*





decided to run the driveshaft loop off a separate crossmember. having them separate might limit the damage. I dunno, i've never made enough power to join the pole vault team

I need to weld all this stuff up when I have time not to rush it.

The engine needs some springs put in it and the trans needs some work to the oiling system. Other than that, I'll slap a little paint on it and start on the 4 link.

I'm kinda in a rush to get that going. Once I turn the truck around so the bed is toward the garage door I can connect my wood stove.
It's gonna get cold in hurry here shortly.
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Old 10-27-2015, 09:59 PM   #45
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been pretty busy at work and school so i've only had a couple hours here and there to throw at it.





5183 rod, 130amps foot pulsed #6 gas lens gave my best results so far. couple other tips i picked up were to wire wheel before each pass. also starting each bead with some pre-heat passes helped a ton. <br/>

next up is checking out this 4l80e I picked up. doing some simple oiling mods and opening up some feeds. might block off the 3rd and 4th gear accumulators too. I plan on running cheap tractor supply hyd fluid in it. the hy-gard knock off they sell.





after that's buttoned up, I can throw it all back together and get started on the 4-link.

Last edited by truckdoug; 10-27-2015 at 10:58 PM. Reason: added trans pic
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Old 10-28-2015, 06:32 AM   #46
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Cool build and top notch fab skills. This thread makes me realize I need to break down and buy a tig then learn how to use it.

Don't worry about the solid mounts. These LS motors idles much smother than the old SBC's and BBC's. I was pleasantly surprised with my solid mounts. I ain't touching them.
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Old 10-29-2015, 07:58 PM   #47
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Cool build and top notch fab skills. This thread makes me realize I need to break down and buy a tig then learn how to use it.

Don't worry about the solid mounts. These LS motors idles much smother than the old SBC's and BBC's. I was pleasantly surprised with my solid mounts. I ain't touching them.

hey thanks! I'm just a regular dude scratching best i can. Learning as I go. I would recommend the AHP 200dx to anyone. Even fellas used to fancy blue and red box stuff are blown away by my $700 chinese zapper. Remember the welder does not make the weldor, but vise-versa. If I just needed DC I'd grab one of them harbor freight $150 jobbies and get a torch with a gas **** on it.

good to know about the mounts. I'm getting a little older and kinda sensitive about stuff like that. occasionally i will even listen to music at safe and appropriate volumes.
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Old 10-30-2015, 06:16 AM   #48
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rebuilding an automatic transmission is fun! it's like building a swiss watch, in a bottle, but everything is sharp, heavy and covered in oil!




talk about 5lbs of sh*t in a 2lb sack!

following this guy's guide
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=668062
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Old 10-30-2015, 10:14 PM   #49
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extra fancy hard seal compressor

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Old 11-11-2015, 06:29 AM   #50
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finally got the trans back together after getting 2 separate, messed up kits from amazon. missing parts and wrong parts. exercise in patience.

I slapped some paint on the firewall and frame while waiting.

Currently waiting on a flat 4l80e flexplate and some used QA1 proma stars I bought off a forum member.


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Old 11-12-2015, 11:29 AM   #51
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Awesome build and great write up. Iv been thinking bout doing this to my square. Already ls swapped just want it to ride smoother. I'll be following this build
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Old 11-14-2015, 07:28 PM   #52
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I'm on the fence as to wether I'd recommend the CV swap to anyone. Jury's out til it's on the road really.

Still waiting on a flexplate so I can slam the drivetrain and front end in and start tearing into the rear. Been playing with the idea of doing a truck arm rear suspension with a watts link in case I get the urge to autocross this beast. Haha probably stick to the 4 link w/panhard though coz cheapest.

While I wait I been sorting out little stuff. The body to frame bushings on these rigs tend to crack, shrink and squeak like crazy and it drives me nuts. So I always replace them. It also makes aligning body panels a lot easier since there isn't one or two bushings all sagged out.

But I might end up caging this thing down the line so I didnt wanna drop $25 on each corner of the cab just to toss 'em in a year. The replacements available today pretty turdly anyways.





So my cheap fix is to use hockey pucks. The rubber is a bit harder durometer and at 1" a hockey puck is just about perfect for a body bushing. $20 shipped for a dozen.





It drills easy with a twist drill or a hole saw.





I jacked up the cab and cribbed it with 4x4's and did all four. Bolt 'em in loose so you can fudge the cab around until it's square with the frame. Square it to the frame and not the bed, beds get all tweaked outta shape from over loading and what-have-you. You can then square the bed up later. The goopy black stuff in this photo is my preferred frame and underbody coating. Hammerite rust-cap "smooth finish" thinned 10-15% with xylene. You can spray it, brush it or my preference roll it on with a 1/4" nap 4" roller. It requires very little surface prep. It's not as pretty as a properly done POR15, but at $13 a quart I can deal with it.


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Old 11-16-2015, 09:42 PM   #53
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Damn I'm stuck!

I have a '95 4l80e trans

a GMPP 19299807 4l80e torque converter (which has six bolts on a 11.062" circle and a long pilot snout wtf?)

the converter came with a curved flexplate and a spacer kit.

I couldn't get it to work, the converter came up against the flexplate before I had the block bolts tight.

I rechecked that the converter was seated correctly several times by rotating the stator and verifying the pump had moved.

So I read up a bit and found that I needed a flat flexplate. So I got a stock, flat 4l80e flexplate and run into the same exact issue.

I've had it apart several times and it appears I have about another .200" or more to go once the flexplate touches the converter bosses.

I can think of only a couple issues:

#1 the converter is not seated deep enough ( I'm pretty sure it is though)

#2 the converter is incompatible with my early style trans somehow

#3 I don't have the pump seated all the way into the trans maybe

Anyone with insight, throw me a line!
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Old 11-16-2015, 11:12 PM   #54
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or #4 which after some looking at the ATSG for an hour is most likely

I have the oil pump drive gear in backwards.

FUDGE
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Old 11-17-2015, 10:49 PM   #55
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yeah I'm a dummy. when I pulled the drive and driven gears I made sure to keep them oriented to each other correctly but brainfarted which way they came out of the pump. despite the dots indicating which side faces out. despite the special note in the ATSG.

DERP.

finally slammed it all home. just need to center up the trans xmember and drill the frame for that.




next is putting the suspension & steering back together
the QA1's I bought from user lm38330 came in and they're in good shape so I don't plan on rebuilding them right away. Need to lathe some UHMW bushings and ally spacers for the lower mount, but I think the upper mount will bolt right to the stock CV assembly.
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Old 11-17-2015, 10:55 PM   #56
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also thinking about having another go with the harbor fright tube kinker. late time I bought one I ruined about $100 in tube before i returned it.

I'd really like to add a stretcher bar between the tops of the CV crossmember
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Old 11-18-2015, 08:51 PM   #57
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Great job. I'm swapping a narrowed CV crossmember into a 56 Plymouth wagon with a 5.3/4l80e and the same turbo. I'm nowhere near where you are, I'm about to pull the body off so I can do the front and rear suspension and clean it all up.
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Old 11-19-2015, 07:21 AM   #58
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keep at it. this looks like a fun project.
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Old 11-19-2015, 11:29 AM   #59
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thanks for the kind words fellas. Norb, your e39 had me really considering a BMW swap, but I couldn't find a specimen for how much money I had. Someday...

I could use a little input on what tube to use for my 4 link. I recall the last time I helped someone do a 4 link we used 1.25 OD .250" wall plain steel DOM. I also see 1.25 OD in .125 wall. I'm estimating my wet+driver weight to be 3200lbs.

Any input is great.
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Old 11-19-2015, 12:39 PM   #60
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Love the Square body trucks..Especially with the Egg Crate Grill

Nice Work
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