1976CamaroGuy

iTrader: (8)

So I have a 71 Camaro with a 5.3 engine and Fbody accessories and had some questions about the routing for the battery cable and alternator charging wire.

Currently I have a stock battery cable going to the starter lug and a 8 gauge cable coming off my alternator (mounted low on drivers side) going to the same lug.

The alternator cable is mounted inside split loom and clamped around the perimeter of the oil pan using cheap plastic cable clamps and the oil pan bolts to hold it.

It serves it's purpose but seems kind of a rig. I would like to make this look and feel more professional and factory looking.

I was wondering how the factory secured the cabling up to the block for the battery and alternator cable on a fbody LS1?. Was the routing the same for the alternator wire like I did mine? around the front of the block?

I'm assuming some sort of metal clamps. Would anyone care to share how this was done and the mounting points?

Thanks a bunch

tfi racing

iTrader: (2)

I would run your alternator wire directly to the positive battery terminal,especially if they are both on the same side of the car.

1976CamaroGuy

iTrader: (8)

Alternator is on the drivers side and battery on passenger side.

Any ideas as to what kind of clips GM used to keep the alternator wire from hanging under the engine?

Alwhite00

iTrader: (1)

I ran my wire from the alt to the battery followed the factory wire harness along the core support.

33willys

iTrader: (1)

Which ever way you decide there are several things to keep in mind. First, Modern cars with modern electrical systems demand far more power then older cars. The alternator puts out LOTS of power so the 8 gauge wire is minimum to handle the output. I get my 8 gauge wire from a car stereo co. This wire is multi strand rather than several large copper wires. Sorta like welding cable vs cheap jumper cables. Second, and most important note that this wire is not fused. If it shorts out you will burn the car down.

DW SD

You can buy nice insulated adel clamps from McMaster. I use stainless.
Use a voltage drop calculator to determine the wire size. You should size to drop no more than .1V or .2V at full alternator output. Probably 50 to 60 amps or so.

http://www.calculator.net/voltage-drop-calculator.html

I always use sheathing on my cables to ensure they won't short from rubbing. And heavy adhesive lined shrink tubing to seal from the elements and further elevate short potentials. A fusible link or heavy duty fuse isn't a bad idea either.

dewchugr

If you need a longer battery cable the cheapest source I know of is to pull one from a BMW in a junkyard, 7 series should be longer. The battery is in the trunk and it's a bit of work to get it out. All the ones I've seen the floor insulation is a good inch to inch and a half thick. The cable runs from the rear corner passenger side of the trunk up to the firewall in the passenger side. There is a special through the firewall connector it ends at. My yard sells them for the same price as other battery cables, four bucks. Unfortunately the ground cables aren't very long.

Pro-tip, if it's an E46 grab the yaw (rotational speed) sensor under the driver seat, tell the yard it's a speed sensor and get it for a couple bucks and sell it on ebay and make a little cash.