1965 Pontiac Lemans LS1-4l60e build...pro-tour style kinda
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1965 Pontiac Lemans LS1-4l60e build...pro-tour style kinda
Been lurking here on and off for a few years. I was going to get rolling on my car back in 2012 but we had another kid... Fast forward 3 years, different home, new garage "shop" I am gonna get rolling on my Lemans. I have a pro touring style in mind for finished product.
I have had car since 2003, bought from original owner with 113000 miles. Minnesota car = rust. Its not all beat up but needs some frame issues addressed and rear quarters, body mounts ect. No worries there been saving for the repro sheetmetal i need and have most panels i need for that...but it will drive first.
The TPiS built LS1 (http://www.tpis.com) will be the core of the build...and I'm leaning toward 4l60e trans. and rebuilding the factory 10 bolt rear. The engine dyno readings 475HP/468TQ. Should be solid. Left compression low in case I get the urge to turbo the car.
There is a lot of info here and from what I have read, a great group of members here for support.
I have had car since 2003, bought from original owner with 113000 miles. Minnesota car = rust. Its not all beat up but needs some frame issues addressed and rear quarters, body mounts ect. No worries there been saving for the repro sheetmetal i need and have most panels i need for that...but it will drive first.
The TPiS built LS1 (http://www.tpis.com) will be the core of the build...and I'm leaning toward 4l60e trans. and rebuilding the factory 10 bolt rear. The engine dyno readings 475HP/468TQ. Should be solid. Left compression low in case I get the urge to turbo the car.
There is a lot of info here and from what I have read, a great group of members here for support.
Last edited by No Goat; 10-07-2015 at 06:27 AM.
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update...
Scored a frame locally... gonna get it sand blasted and primed so as to start with clean slate to swap my good parts over.
Years ago I installed 2" dropped spindles and disc brakes in the front end, along with new ball joints, and energy suspension bushings throughout! I do have the body mounts ready to install when the time comes that they will serve a purpose. ( got some rust issues in the rear body mount and trunk area.) I am going to start a build thread in the conversion area with pics to show little by little progress.
I have a puller... and looking at ordering F body crank pulley. Any experience with the Dorman brand ? I have read somewhere that the Ls1 is a little prone to "go through" a crank pulley (damper) or 2 in its life?? Any truth in that? Is it worth the extra money to buy? The engine was balanced and blueprinted by a reputable race engine shop so I am thinking the Dorman will suffice? Also found a F-body PS pump at a junkyard... I can only assume it comes with the brackets? ( First build ever so bare with me) Going to do the Jeep GC steering sector swap to alleviate the school bus feel.
Years ago I installed 2" dropped spindles and disc brakes in the front end, along with new ball joints, and energy suspension bushings throughout! I do have the body mounts ready to install when the time comes that they will serve a purpose. ( got some rust issues in the rear body mount and trunk area.) I am going to start a build thread in the conversion area with pics to show little by little progress.
I have a puller... and looking at ordering F body crank pulley. Any experience with the Dorman brand ? I have read somewhere that the Ls1 is a little prone to "go through" a crank pulley (damper) or 2 in its life?? Any truth in that? Is it worth the extra money to buy? The engine was balanced and blueprinted by a reputable race engine shop so I am thinking the Dorman will suffice? Also found a F-body PS pump at a junkyard... I can only assume it comes with the brackets? ( First build ever so bare with me) Going to do the Jeep GC steering sector swap to alleviate the school bus feel.
Last edited by No Goat; 10-06-2015 at 09:21 PM.
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Parts to order...
I want to go with the acc. drive like in the image below... I have a CTSV oil pan under my block so, the question is... to make this drive fit without grinding to PS sector and still be able to use bolt on headers without butchering the frame...which engine mounts should I get to magically make this happen. I have heard about tall mounts used on some builds. If someone has a part # handy or some suggestions, I am all ears. Mean while I will continue to read through all these great projects on this forum.
#4
Nice looking car. I really like the 65 GTO/Lemans. Those rims are horrible though. LOL. Should be a really cool build.
Best of luck !!!
Best of luck !!!
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Yeah they are not my first choice...I traded a .44 magnum pistol for them at a pawn shop 12 years ago... I plan on making more room in the rear for wider wheels when I tear into the body work. Factory 14" were no good with the brakes conversion I put on front.
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Great project! I look forward to seeing it happen. Couple things to get you on the right track.
The CTSV pan is not an optimal pan for your A-body swap. The sump hangs just a bit lower then your crossmember and the front is not narrow enough to clear the steering unless you get the motor up high which then causes issues with your tunnel clearance and driveline angle.
The F-body accessories (alternator location) have an issue with clearance at the power steering box. I have seen it work, but only with the motor set back as far as it will go which again will minimize your tunnel/trans clearance.
I would recommend using the Holley oil pan and their accessory bracket kit for the best fitment. I used the F-body oil pan on my swap and notched my cross-member to make it fit without being pushed against the firewall.
The CTSV pan is not an optimal pan for your A-body swap. The sump hangs just a bit lower then your crossmember and the front is not narrow enough to clear the steering unless you get the motor up high which then causes issues with your tunnel clearance and driveline angle.
The F-body accessories (alternator location) have an issue with clearance at the power steering box. I have seen it work, but only with the motor set back as far as it will go which again will minimize your tunnel/trans clearance.
I would recommend using the Holley oil pan and their accessory bracket kit for the best fitment. I used the F-body oil pan on my swap and notched my cross-member to make it fit without being pushed against the firewall.
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Great project! I look forward to seeing it happen. Couple things to get you on the right track.
The CTSV pan is not an optimal pan for your A-body swap. The sump hangs just a bit lower then your crossmember and the front is not narrow enough to clear the steering unless you get the motor up high which then causes issues with your tunnel clearance and driveline angle.
The F-body accessories (alternator location) have an issue with clearance at the power steering box. I have seen it work, but only with the motor set back as far as it will go which again will minimize your tunnel/trans clearance.
I would recommend using the Holley oil pan and their accessory bracket kit for the best fitment. I used the F-body oil pan on my swap and notched my cross-member to make it fit without being pushed against the firewall.
The CTSV pan is not an optimal pan for your A-body swap. The sump hangs just a bit lower then your crossmember and the front is not narrow enough to clear the steering unless you get the motor up high which then causes issues with your tunnel clearance and driveline angle.
The F-body accessories (alternator location) have an issue with clearance at the power steering box. I have seen it work, but only with the motor set back as far as it will go which again will minimize your tunnel/trans clearance.
I would recommend using the Holley oil pan and their accessory bracket kit for the best fitment. I used the F-body oil pan on my swap and notched my cross-member to make it fit without being pushed against the firewall.
I really like your fire wall work in your build thread.. Clean
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Corvette alternator bracket
Ordered the vette ls1 OE alternator bracket... Do I have to stick with the vette pump and reservoir??? Or will f body or others work?