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It looks like you are setting this up so that the 302-1 oil pan can be used. One thing about the 302-1 pan is you can put in a stroker kit without mods unlike the 302-2 pan.
It looks like you are setting this up so that the 302-1 oil pan can be used. One thing about the 302-1 pan is you can put in a stroker kit without mods unlike the 302-2 pan.
I wish that were the case, but use of the 302-1 with these engine brackets will encounter severe interference between the pan and the inner tie rod ends.
I wish that were the case, but use of the 302-1 with these engine brackets will encounter severe interference between the pan and the inner tie rod ends.
Why don't you put a little hump in the center of the pan to clear a stroker crank? 302-3 maybe?
Why don't you put a little hump in the center of the pan to clear a stroker crank? 302-3 maybe?
I assure you It's been discussed around here as a potential project, but I can't tell you if, or when it will happen. The decision to do is not as simple as it sounds as the cost of the engineering and tooling to make it happen is very expensive and there are numerous other tentative products on our development list that it would be compared against to judge the significance of its impact and determine it as a priority. The modification to the pan shown in the photo is something that the fabricators among us can execute in an hour or two without difficulty, so for those that truly want to use the 302-2 on a stroker, the work is not prohibitive to making it happen.
Pan mods are very common on engine conversions projects; the one shown in the post is pretty minor compared to many I have seen and done. Given the cost of an LS stroker motor the money spent to have a 302-2 modified by a qualified fabricator would be minor in the overall build cost.
I've validated that the 4th-gen F-body A/C compressor/bracket also bolts right in with the forward position set of Hooker A-body engine swap brackets. The truck and F-body compressors can also be installed using the stock position set of engine brackets, but you'll have to do some frame notching to clear the fitting block or adapters on the back of the F-body compressor.
I does happen from time to time. I live only 5 miles from work, so it's very convenient for me to come in on a Saturday or Sunday to work on projects when I feel it's needed to keep me on schedule...I don't want to get on the bad side of you A-body guys, so I'm here slaving away on paperwork associated with this project to ensure things get done ASAP.
Todd do you think the GTO compressor with the side outlet adapter for the refrigerant lines would work with out notching the frame? I have one I can send up if you want to validate.
Todd do you think the GTO compressor with the side outlet adapter for the refrigerant lines would work with out notching the frame? I have one I can send up if you want to validate.
I'm already working on validating the fitment of that compressor and am waiting for one to arrive that I bought off of ebay...I'll post the results as soon as I get it bolted up.
Todd, we 66' and 67' A-Body guys need a full swap system too. Any chance you have us on your schedule?
I've not yet been notified by management as to what my next swap application is, but I don't see us leaving those cars out indefinately. I'll post up a more info when I get it.
I guess that would be possible, but the pinpointed areas you'll need a little extra clearance for your 4L80 won't be helped much through that effort; the trans output speed sensor and rear cooler fitting/ line is where you will need to focus your attention. For what it's worth, I installed stock mounts from OPGI on the vehicle I'm using for development.
I've been validating the fitment of parts with the stock position/1" set-back brackets and thought I'd share the results with you...
The truck A/C compressor and bracket bolts right up as it did with the forward mounts; the F-body compressor with require notching of the K-member, but the engine bracket will not impede that. I will be checking the GTO compressor for fitment with these brackets later.
The F-body low-mount alternator bolts right in but the GTO alternator is a no-go and will have to be relocated or changed out for an F-body alternator.
Here's some pics of all of this plus a shot of both brackets on the K-member and the first production run of the headers...
The overall development plan does include mid-length headers, but no extraordinary effort will be expended towards making them accomodate Z-bar linkage. If they by chance fit with the Z-bar then I will document it and mention it here.
Just make the aft most tube go straight down off the head and they will fix. I can't convince dad to spend $400 for a Hyd clutch when the z bar has worked for 6 years no issues
Just make the aft most tube go straight down off the head and they will fix. I can't convince dad to spend $400 for a Hyd clutch when the z bar has worked for 6 years no issues
Tim
I hear where you're coming from, by my main objective is to design the headers to provide good fitment with both sets of Hooker engine brackets, work with the multitude of transmissions covered in the application and clear the brake proportioning valves (there are two different ones) on the frame rail...Z-bar compatibility will come by chance if it does at all.
I suspect that the headers will bolt onto an LS engine in the early cars, but I'm not anticipating that any of these components will provide optimized fitment in those applications.
I have tried 68-72 headers on my 66 and they aren't even close.
11-07-2015, 01:11 PM
