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Hello all, I'm basically finished my 2002 LS1/t56 swap in my 97 (lt1/4l60e) camaro. I'm having a few wiring issues that have me stumped. First off is the fuel pump is not priming on key-on. We gave C220 pin J 12v and the fuel pump turned on as well as when we gave it 12v on C210 pin D. We have continuity From C220 B to pin 85 on the LT1 fuel pump relay. A strange issue we came across was that when we unplugged the relay AND C210 from the engine harness, there was 8v on that wire from pin 86 to B on c210 under the LT1 dash Which makes 0 sense as to where the 8v was coming from. When the c210 was unplugged, my odometer lit up but did not display anything as well as my aeroforce gauge plugged into my obd2 port. With it plugged in the odometer displayed properly as well as the aeroforce gauge, but the gauge powered off after a few seconds.
Some things I tested: C210 pin C has 12v constant, the pump turns on when applied 12v to C210 D as well as 220J.
One thing that I am unsure of was a few grounds. As of right now I have C220 E unpinned and just temp grounded to the ground under the dash. For the ground going to C210 B, I extended C101 H (Blk/white circuit 451 ground) to that connector.
I also haven't done anything with c101 E which is a pink wire for o2 sensor heaters as well as c101 A which is (yellow/blk circuit 625 starter enable relay control). Are these necessary for the LT1 swap? I don't think the o2 heaters are but not sure about the 625 circut.
Here are the major pin moves I have done thus far which should just about cover them.
Move LS1 C101 - Pin C (AIR pump relay control) to LS1 C100 - Pin E
--This will match the air pump wires up to 97 LT1 body, but I deleted the pump
Move LS1 C100 - Pin E (TP Sensor Signal) to LS1 C105 - Pin C (free spot)
--This will match the TP Signal to the LT1 TCS throttle position [is this correct?]
Move LS1 C101 - Pin K (Ignition Retard Signal) to LS1 C105 - Pin A
-- This will match LT1 C105 TCS system spark retard, I deleted TCS though
Move LS1 C105 - Pin G (Engine Speed Signal)[extend] to LS1 C230 - Pin D (free spot)
--This will match to LT1 C230 tach signal to cluster
Move LS1 C220 - Pin A (Oil Pressure Indicator) to LS1 C220 - Pin B [remove grey wire CPP switch that is in B, it is not needed]
--This will match the LT1 oil pressure feed to the cluster
Move LS1 C101 - Pin D (Primary Fuel Pump Relay Control) to LS1 C220 - Pin J
--This will match up to the LT1 Fuel pump relay control
Move LS1 C101 - Pin B (Ignition 1 Voltage) to LS1 C100 - Pin F (free spot)
--This will take power from the LT1 actuators fuse #2 [15amp] and supply power to the ignition
Being a auto->t56 swap, I've been having some trouble figuring out how to wire the clutch switch to start the car. I was figuring I could use the wiring from the auto brake pedal but I couldn't find a schematic on that. I read the mervs thread about adding a relay for it but I'll have to research a bit more.
I appreciate any input and hopefully I can get this thing on the road soon! I'll attach a schematic below so the text has an image for reference.
I got the car to turn over one time once I figured out where the neutral safety switch had to be wired into the a4 console wiring. After a slow crank with a pretty low battery the one pin from above c220 e that is just alligator clipped to the dash ground started getting extremely hot to the point of smoking the cheap alligator jumper that I had. It doesn't make sense that the ground pin had that much current going through it
Yeah the 2 big wires going to the shifter need to be extended to the clutch pedal. The other wires on the shifter are for the reverse lights and the hatch. I will look for 97 Lt1 pin outs and see if I can help.
Yeah the 2 big wires going to the shifter need to be extended to the clutch pedal. The other wires on the shifter are for the reverse lights and the hatch. I will look for 97 Lt1 pin outs and see if I can help.
I was able to figure that out and after fixing a few grounds I was able to get the car to crank like a normal car Still trying to figure out why the fuel pump won't prime with key-on. I gave it 12v at the PCM pin where c220 j originates, and the fuel pump relay clicked by the drivers footwell, but for some reason when I turn the key its not putting out the 12v from the PCM to click the pump on. I also tried checking for spark and it appears that I don't have spark either. I got a 12v constant at the coil but it drops severely when cranking.
Well I tried to connect to the PCM via HP Tuners but it appears that my diagnostic wiring to the PCM is incorrect, my port has power because my Aeroforce gauge comes on, but it won't display any paramters and HPT can't find the VCM. I'll have to check my wiring to the port. I currently have the output field service enable wire from my obd2 port (pin 2 I think) Wired to the LS1 pcm class 2 serial data which SHOULD give me diagnostics I believe, but for some reason does not.
Well I tried to connect to the PCM via HP Tuners but it appears that my diagnostic wiring to the PCM is incorrect, my port has power because my Aeroforce gauge comes on, but it won't display any paramters and HPT can't find the VCM. I'll have to check my wiring to the port. I currently have the output field service enable wire from my obd2 port (pin 2 I think) Wired to the LS1 pcm class 2 serial data which SHOULD give me diagnostics I believe, but for some reason does not.
There should be two grounds, a diagnostic signal wire, and a constant hot ran to the obd2 plug.
Well I found out that the ignition wire from c101 didn't get hooked up which caused many of my problems. Once I tested it to 12v i got my pcm connection, fuel pump, and ignition! And guess what that means when you have those? FIRE! The car ran for the first time today. Now just a laundry list of things to do and I'll be back on the road!
running the car is the absolute best feeling ever i bet
Yes! Even though it was only a few seconds since I have no belt or coolant in the car, it was a huge relief. I need to find a switched 12v wire to power the other pink ignition wire but I think I'm going to get that from the ABS relay since I deleted ABS from my car.
Yeah my 93 is slanted also. Now Lt1 and Ls1 cars radiators are slightly different. The Lt1 radiator is thicker and has a extra port on the driver side on the bottom for the engine oil cooler.
Must be nice having a 93 with an ls1. No emissions. Isn't this a straight radiator car?
And to the insurance company its technically a v6 93 Oh the benefits of DIY swapping...
Originally Posted by sierravmax
Yeah my 93 is slanted also. Now Lt1 and Ls1 cars radiators are slightly different. The Lt1 radiator is thicker and has a extra port on the driver side on the bottom for the engine oil cooler.
This. I reused my lt1 radiator for this reason. Which reminds me, I have to stop at the hardware store tomorrow to plug that port on the radiator
Edit: for the record I plan on making nice sheets of how I did this conversion so in the future anyone who wants to swap and has a 96/97 lt1 car will have no guesswork like I did
Well after having HP tuners hooked up I found out that I had a miss, which turned out to be a coil pack that I forgot to plug in during testing for power The only other codes I have so far is the fuel level sensor (which isn't used on the LT1) and emissions codes! Sorry for the instagram link but it's the only video I have currently.
10-17-2015, 02:21 PM
1997 LT1 to LS1 wiring woes 
Which makes 0 sense as to where the 8v was coming from. When the c210 was unplugged, my odometer lit up but did not display anything as well as my aeroforce gauge plugged into my obd2 port. With it plugged in the odometer displayed properly as well as the aeroforce gauge, but the gauge powered off after a few seconds. 
Still trying to figure out why the fuel pump won't prime with key-on. I gave it 12v at the PCM pin where c220 j originates, and the fuel pump relay clicked by the drivers footwell, but for some reason when I turn the key its not putting out the 12v from the PCM to click the pump on. I also tried checking for spark and it appears that I don't have spark either. I got a 12v constant at the coil but it drops severely when cranking. 
Oh the benefits of DIY swapping... 
The only other codes I have so far is the fuel level sensor (which isn't used on the LT1) and emissions codes! Sorry for the instagram link but it's the only video I have currently.
