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Hey guys
I need some feed back on a swap I am doing .
I am doing a truck 6.0 in a 68 Ss convertible Chevelle and I am having clearance issues with the power steering pump clearing the steering box
The last time I did this swap with a ls1 into a 69 cutlass I had the same problem with the alternator clearing the gear box but I used Chevelle bbc mounts and it barely cleared by a quarter inch . But as I am looking at my swap now I know that won't work because the pully on the pump is a lot bigger . And the alternator is up top and the pump on the 6.0 is on bottom verses the ls1 is the opposite and I want to avoid changing the brackets ....
On the Chevelle I am using
the short wide mounts and the red energy suspension motor mounts would any know how thick of a spacer I would need to clear that pump
I saw you didn't want to change your brackets, but if you change your mind down the road you also have the option of using the Holley high-mount alternator relocation bracket, which will enable you to use a car intake if you choose to in the future.
I had the same issue on my 66, pulled of a smaller pulley of a ford e series van, same size as dorman one but got it from a junkyard for basically free
Thanx todddoky and alwhite 00 for the pictures
I was reading like crazy on the hotrod magazine web page and I found the pully that would work in a a body swap with a 6.0 the pully size was 5.142
The reason I didn't want to go with taller mounts is because I have already powder coated all my frame and didn't want to deal with grinding and welding also I had bought a after market intake plus the brackets get expensive already got a lot in this car with a frame off build
Thanx todddoky and alwhite 00 for the pictures
I was reading like crazy on the hotrod magazine web page and I found the pully that would work in a a body swap with a 6.0 the pully size was 5.142
The reason I didn't want to go with taller mounts is because I have already powder coated all my frame and didn't want to deal with grinding and welding also I had bought a after market intake plus the brackets get expensive already got a lot in this car with a frame off build
Glad that worked out for you. You decision was a good one since raising your engine to provide component clearances is counter productive towards achieving the best possible U-joint working angles later in your project. The end outcome is far better when you use a smaller P/S pump pulley as you are doing and an oil pan with a low front end profile to achieve critical clearances with vehicle components.
I saw you didn't want to change your brackets, but if you change your mind down the road you also have the option of using the Holley high-mount alternator relocation bracket, which will enable you to use a car intake if you choose to in the future.
Todd what car is in pic? I need something like this for my cutlass w/ truck spacing
Todd what car is in pic? I need something like this for my cutlass w/ truck spacing
The car is a 1970 Pontiac GTO/Lemans, which has the same frame as any other 1968-72 A-body. The Holley bracket in the photo is part# 20-135 and you would need to use the 21-3 spacer kit to align it with the truck accessory drive set-up...I'll have to check whether that bracket/spacer combo is compatible with the Hooker G-body system as I don't remember off the top of my head.
I used the truck brackets with a LS2 intake by moving the idler pulley and re-routing the belt.
Ok so I used all my stock brackets for the truck 6.0 still with the new 5 inch pulley and I am trying to figure out side size belt I would need to fit since everything changed up on the pulleys
11-05-2015, 08:04 AM
Clarence issues on a 68 Chevelle 
