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1970 Bug Mid Engine - Assembly Time (Auto-x videos posted)

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Old 04-17-2016, 01:57 AM
  #101  
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Well I got a little more done. Thanks to my helpers.

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Ended up giving the Bug some personality

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Set it up at 6 inch ride height. And that means 6 inches at the lowest point. Ya it pretty flat

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Threw the fenders on to check the alignment. Still need to paint them...

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Old 04-17-2016, 09:54 AM
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That looks killer.
Old 04-17-2016, 05:06 PM
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Would be cool to paint the fenders different colors than the body. Maybe a slate grey like the primer your have. Just a thought. Easy to suggest when it isn't my time or money I know.
Old 04-18-2016, 02:59 PM
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Jimbo - Thanks like always!

DW SD - I got a spray gun and some paint if you want to stop by! Haha. The fenders are going white for now. My real plan is to get some carbon fiber ones made (which is in the works). I would leave those clear and then paint the rest of the body black or possibly leave it white and go for the 2 tone look. If I do go the carbon route, the trunk and hood would be carbon as well. Might be a nice offset leaving the body white.
Old 04-18-2016, 10:31 PM
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looks so killer!
Old 04-21-2016, 12:10 AM
  #106  
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Back up and running. Nice to hear it again. All switches finally work!
Old 04-21-2016, 09:57 AM
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Damn that fires up quick with no hesitation. Interior looks great.
Old 04-21-2016, 11:51 AM
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Really impressive.
While I don't think you want me to paint it , I would love to check it out when you are ready to show it off a bit.
I don't think I'm that far away. I'm in Encinitas / Carlsbad area.
The CF fenders sound very trick.

Do you know how much it weighs now? Have you corner-balanced?


Doug
Old 04-22-2016, 12:42 AM
  #109  
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3.8 - it does fire up nice. I slightly messed with the base tune to get it this way. I got lucky. A lot more tuning to come....

Dw SD- ya I don't think we are too far away. Haven't looked it up yet. Don't worry, the carbon is in the works. Probably won't have anything until the end of the year though. I have not weighed or corner balanced yet. That will be after it is driving. Still hoping for the 2000 lbs range
Old 04-26-2016, 09:16 PM
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Any updates?
Old 04-26-2016, 09:23 PM
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Working on it as we speak. Been trying to finish up little things. Shifter is working again. Done running brake lines. Got my custom lines made. Have one more clutch line to put on. Then waiting for my vacuum bleeder to come in. My trans has no bleeder valve. Thanks GM. Then waiting on the radiator to come back. After that I can finish coolant plumbing and take it for a spin
Old 04-27-2016, 12:53 AM
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Alright. Done with the brakes. It went bad. I had at least 5 junctions leak. One of them cracked the flare and I had to cut the tube and flare it again. Then it cracked again! So I cut it again, flared it, and everything was good. Bled the brakes way too many times and I finally have a brake pedal. I am happy again...
Old 04-27-2016, 11:46 AM
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glad you persevered! Those can be a pain in the a$$.
Old 04-28-2016, 01:49 AM
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Well tonight was clutch bleeding night. Got the last line connected and started bleeding. As posted earlier, I do not have a bleeder valve. I did what Gm recommended and did a vacuum bleed. Let's just say several vacuum bleeds and several manual bleeds later, I have a decent clutch pedal. I will try again tomorrow to make sure all the air is out. Now I just need my radiator back and it's time to take it around the block!
Old 04-28-2016, 08:17 AM
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are you using steel lines or the new nicopp stuff? I wanted to try the nicopp but I didnt want to risk having to learn new skills on very expensive tubing.

great work, as always!
Old 04-28-2016, 01:16 PM
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nicopp is very easy to use and especially to bend and flare.

I've plumbed several cars with it from scratch and never seen it crack. It isn't very expensive in my experience, either. Maybe $.75 to $1 / linear foot for the 3/16" for brakes. My truck took less than 25' feet.

Nicopp is VERY much easier to work with than stainless, which galls, cracks, work hardens (I think), and generally isn't very forgiving when bending etc.

Doug
Old 04-28-2016, 03:57 PM
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I ended up doing stainless lines. I do regret it now. Never even heard of nicopp. The lines were easy to bend but sucked to flare. I could get them as tight as I could in the clamp, then try to flare them and it would push the line back instead of flaring it. I think the cracking was due to me trying to flare too much, as in the line was sticking too far out of the clamp when I started to flare.

In the end, its done. That is all I care about. Clutch works and brakes work. Can't ask for much more at this point.
Old 04-28-2016, 09:19 PM
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Originally Posted by truckdoug
are you using steel lines or the new nicopp stuff? I wanted to try the nicopp but I didnt want to risk having to learn new skills on very expensive tubing.

great work, as always!
Originally Posted by DW SD
nicopp is very easy to use and especially to bend and flare.

I've plumbed several cars with it from scratch and never seen it crack. It isn't very expensive in my experience, either. Maybe $.75 to $1 / linear foot for the 3/16" for brakes. My truck took less than 25' feet.

Nicopp is VERY much easier to work with than stainless, which galls, cracks, work hardens (I think), and generally isn't very forgiving when bending etc.

Doug
Is this stuff suitable for single flares in a 37° AN system?
Old 04-29-2016, 05:50 AM
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I redid the rear axle hard lines on my Fox Mustang last year using Nicopp lines and 37° single flares. I didn't have any problems, and concur with everything Doug said.
Old 04-30-2016, 12:09 AM
  #120  
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Started to weld together my bump steer eliminator. I made this on Autocad and had it laser cut. Don't think it turned out too bad.

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