analyte

iTrader: (5)

I got the switch wired up like mentioned, and I checked all the connections with a multimeter to ensure everything worked as expected. The switch is positioned correctly to operate the brake lights, but I'm willing to adjust it as necessary if needed to get the cruise to work.

Once done, it was dark and raining. Therefore, the test drive won't happen until tomorrow after work.

ls1nova71,
Thanks again and I did pick up the nuts for the switch!!

analyte

iTrader: (5)

Ok, test drive this evening was a bust. I stopped and checked voltage to the wires to verify they were correct. 12V only when brakes off to C1-33 and 12V to TAC1-6 only when brakes applied.

The rest of the HND-2 functions are getting power as needed, but it still won't work. I did push the switch in as far as it would go to ensure the button was pressed 100% to no avail.

I'd nothing else is off, I'm starting to wonder if I have a faulty switch or something else.

Kerry

analyte

iTrader: (5)

Ok, further reading shows that not have a functioning clutch switch may be keeping the cruise from going active. It seems the wire C1-32 should see 12V when the clutch is up, and ground when pressed.

If correct, how do I wire a switch to work without without tying it to the starter. My Chevelle never had a neutral safety switch so I'm used to not turning the car without the clutch in. That said, how do I wire a switch to get the response needed to the PCM.

How about this, will it provide the necessary results?

A - ignition hot to A
B - wire from A to B to complete circuit
C - to C1-32
D - to ground

ls1nova71

iTrader: (4)

What OS are you running? A clutch position switch would be wired to C1-35 on a truck OS, and would be 12v to the PCM with the clutch released.

ls1nova71

iTrader: (4)

If you think you have a bad switch, which I would think would be unlikely, it's easy to wire around it with no switch to test it. Unhook the switch, take the ignition power wire that is powering it up, and wire it directly to the gray wire at pin 14 on the TAC module plug. Where you wire those two wires together, add another wire to it, this will be used to momentarily touch the dark blue wire at pin 4 on the TAC plug. Then test it out, if it sets, it's your switch.

analyte

iTrader: (5)

I honestly don't know what OS I'm running. Tick setup the PCM and did the tuning. Jonathon did mention some things he does differently on truck PCMs so I'm sure it's a truck OS.

I rechecked my switch and I don't have any reason to believe it's bad. Everything gets power correctly.

Mine being a truck PCM may move the clutch wire position from a car, but the grey wire is marked by BP for the clutch switch.

So will my wiring proposal work? I'd rather not mount the switch initially just to verify it is needed for cruise, but I'm not sure how to do it.

ls1nova71

iTrader: (4)

I'm not following you on your wiring. Are you planning on using another brake light switch? If so, you don't need to use all four terminals, just the rear two. Ignition to one terminal and the other to C1-35. Are you saying your harness has a wire at C1-32 marked clutch?

lizeec

iTrader: (57)

I thought I read somewhere that the Dakota Digital stalk is not compatible with a G.M. Cruise control, the difference being the DD switches are NO where NC switches are needed or vice versa? But that they can be reversed using multiple relays?

ls1nova71

iTrader: (4)

The steering column mounted turn signal levers are the ones that don't work without the reversing relays, the dash mounted HND-2 is the only one that will work without the relays.

lizeec

iTrader: (57)

Ok thanks for clearing that up, is the op sure he is getting a good VSS signal verified through a hand held scanner or tuning equipment? Another thing to check is the cruise will not activate until you are going at least 25 m.p.h. I believe? On my vehicle I have verified my VSS signal is correct but my cruise won't activate till 50 m.p.h. Just another item to check?

Eric he needs one of them dandy stalks you configure to work, works smooth as butter with your stalks.

ls1nova71

iTrader: (4)

This is a great point, I usually assume things like this are working, but with his T56 swap, that could be an issue. Thanks for bringing that up!

Side note, it's odd that yours won't set until you're going 50mph, is your tune (axle ratio/tire size) correct?

lizeec

iTrader: (57)

The tune was done by Speartech, all the pertinent information was given to John, I assume the tire size/axle parameters are correct? I am using a E40 ECM, I do have a T56 with the tail shaft speedo conversion, I have verified my mph both on a hand held and by a gps iPhone app and my speedo m.p.h. is correct. Everything works as factory except the 25 m.p.h. cruise activate which at those speeds it's never needed, but it's not a big deal as it sets and works perfect after 50 m.p.h. or above which is where it is most commonly used. I also made a bracket and installed a second switch for the clutch safety switch and also used the switch for a NSS so the the car will only start with the clutch pedal pressed in, my car did not originally come with a NSS, if the op is using a T56 I believe his ppm has to be set correctly in his tune?

analyte

iTrader: (5)

Sorry for not being clear, I was wondering if I had to get a 4 terminal clutch switch to work, A-B-C-D.

On my BP harness made for a truck blue/green PCM, I do have a "grey" wire labeled clutch switch. This should go back to the necessary PCM port though I was incorrect about its location before.

If a brake switch will work, you're saying I could tie the "grey clutch wire" into the existing brake switch thereby sharing the rear most terminal currently used by the TCC only? If so, that would provide 12V when not depressed and ground out when pressed. Am I following you correctly?

I have verified my speed so I know my VSS signal is good, thanks for another idea!!

ls1nova71

iTrader: (4)

If your gray clutch wire goes to C1-35, then I would run it to that. If you are going to use a brake switch for the clutch switch, then just use the rear two terminals and mount it to the clutch pedal, you wouldn't need to hook it to the brake pedal. I would think as a test, you could hook power to the gray clutch wire and try it since it needs 12v until the clutch pedal is pressed.

analyte

iTrader: (5)

Thanks, that's what I'm thinking for a test just to verify that's why it hasn't been working. If the grey wire hooked to the rear terminal of the brake switch with TCC wire gives me cruise, then I know what to do.

I'll just have to get under the dash and fab a bracket to hold the clutch switch.

Thanks,
Kerry

ls1nova71

iTrader: (4)

No, dont hook it up to the brake switch. Hook it up to a second brake switch just for the clutch pedal. But first I think I would just hook power to the gray wire without a switch to verify it will work.

analyte

iTrader: (5)

Copy that. I was only wanting to use the brake switch for a trial, but it's easier to just attach it to a hot accessory wire.

Thanks!!

analyte

iTrader: (5)

OK, I left for my road trip today. I wasn't able to get another brake switch shipped in before I had to leave, but I did try giving the grey wire power to see if the cruise would work. No dice, still not cruise.....

I'm going tor reach out to Bill at BP and ask him about it. With the help from this forum, I've got all the wires connected now and the correct brake switch, but things still aren't working. Not sure where else to go from here.

Kerry