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Todd if this works for SN95 Mustangs do you think it would work for the Fox bodies, there is not that much difference, in fact the floor boards are the same and you can certainly use a SN95 k-member in a Fox. I know some of the 94 SN95's came with 5.0 engines before the switch to mod was completed late in 94.
Todd if this works for SN95 Mustangs do you think it would work for the Fox bodies, there is not that much difference, in fact the floor boards are the same and you can certainly use a SN95 k-member in a Fox. I know some of the 94 SN95's came with 5.0 engines before the switch to mod was completed late in 94.
It'll be hard to say until I actually do a mock-up in a Fox body personally, which will happen after this project. I will more than likely be basing that kit on the stock Fox body K-member as the engine perches on it are quite a bit lower and offer greater flexibility for choosing the best engine mounts to use.
That will be a god send to all us LS/FOX guys, I have personally had 3 different k-members in mine trying to get the best fit, I finally got the MM Coyote/LS k-member last year when they went on the market, I had to fabricate my own mounts, a combination of 4.6 and Jeep urethane mounts, but the engine still sits a little high, the biggest issue with this swap that I see is the exhaust, no one makes a set of bolt on headers except Kooks but you have to use an AJE k-member, one of the worst k-members on the market IMO, believe I had one, I ended up using BBK 351 swap headers with the flanges cut off and LS flanges welded on, the nice thing about them is the steering shaft clearance, they're the best of all the ones I've tried. I'll be waiting to see what you come up with.
I can say one thing (actually more than one) about the 1" setback using the UPR mounts...it made the th400 tail section run into the factory auto shifter (the bottom of it). B/c I wanted to use the factory shifter with the th400, I actually had to notch the bottom of the shifter. Another issue with the UPR mounts is that the engine really doesn't want to sit in the K correctly. Some funky angles going on with the LS engine won't let the motor sit right...it wants to tilt one way or another b/c the angles of the mounts aren't true with the K's angles. And finally, it's hard to get the motor in/out with the UPR's b/c the 4.6 mounts has studs which requires you to lift the engine high up enough to get the studs out of the K, but then the bellhousing hits the tunnel not allowing the engine to get up high enough.....uuuughhhh.
I like how 64post moded a 4.6 mount. But looking back, it would've been easy enough to use a traditional sbc/bbc engine mount along with adapter plates, and then weld a piece of tubing/round stock to the K, and use the traditional sbc/bbc engine ~4" mounting bolts. This allows EASY engine removal, you can adjust where the engine sits a bit, and the engine would go lower.
That will be a god send to all us LS/FOX guys, I have personally had 3 different k-members in mine trying to get the best fit, I finally got the MM Coyote/LS k-member last year when they went on the market, I had to fabricate my own mounts, a combination of 4.6 and Jeep urethane mounts, but the engine still sits a little high, the biggest issue with this swap that I see is the exhaust, no one makes a set of bolt on headers except Kooks but you have to use an AJE k-member, one of the worst k-members on the market IMO, believe I had one, I ended up using BBK 351 swap headers with the flanges cut off and LS flanges welded on, the nice thing about them is the steering shaft clearance, they're the best of all the ones I've tried. I'll be waiting to see what you come up with.
The design/tolerance variables amongst the aftermarket K-members is what prompted us to develop these new components off of the stock K-member. I have a feeling that there will be one or two of the aftermarket K-members that will end up providing the best compatibility with the Hooker engine adapters. I think there will be more than a few guys who will find value in being able to execute the swap using the stock K-member.
I can say one thing (actually more than one) about the 1" setback using the UPR mounts...it made the th400 tail section run into the factory auto shifter (the bottom of it). B/c I wanted to use the factory shifter with the th400, I actually had to notch the bottom of the shifter. Another issue with the UPR mounts is that the engine really doesn't want to sit in the K correctly. Some funky angles going on with the LS engine won't let the motor sit right...it wants to tilt one way or another b/c the angles of the mounts aren't true with the K's angles. And finally, it's hard to get the motor in/out with the UPR's b/c the 4.6 mounts has studs which requires you to lift the engine high up enough to get the studs out of the K, but then the bellhousing hits the tunnel not allowing the engine to get up high enough.....uuuughhhh.
I like how 64post moded a 4.6 mount. But looking back, it would've been easy enough to use a traditional sbc/bbc engine mount along with adapter plates, and then weld a piece of tubing/round stock to the K, and use the traditional sbc/bbc engine ~4" mounting bolts. This allows EASY engine removal, you can adjust where the engine sits a bit, and the engine would go lower.
Obviously I'm not a UPR mount fan.
I'd like to see a photo of the fitment of your shifter with your TH400; I tried to find a stock automatic shifter on eBay but was unsuccessful. I don't know about the aftermarket K-members, but the use of the UPR plates with the stock K-member requires you to grind off the indexing buttons from the bottom of the engine mounts and allows a great amount of engine movement like you described. I did also contemplate using the old school SB Chevy mounts. But chose not to since the configuration of the plates I devised worked well and don't require the indexing buttons to be removed.
I'd like to see a photo of the fitment of your shifter with your TH400; I tried to find a stock automatic shifter on eBay but was unsuccessful. I don't know about the aftermarket K-members, but the use of the UPR plates with the stock K-member requires you to grind off the indexing buttons from the bottom of the engine mounts and allows a great amount of engine movement like you described. I did also contemplate using the old school SB Chevy mounts. But chose not to since the configuration of the plates I devised worked well and don't require the indexing buttons to be removed.
I actually did grind those indexing tabs off, which I believe resulted in me damaging at least 1 engine mount. Once those tabs are ground off, the engine mount rubber portion that is bonded to the stud now twist, severely stressing the rubber and results in damage during the installation process. Reason #5 why I don't like those mounts LOL!!!
Regarding the factory shifter, I welded-up a bracket to reuse the factory ford shifter cable. A little crude, but its tough laying on your back due to the lack of a lift in my garage But, the shifter works perfect and all the factory pieces are intact (console, shifter etc). I think you could make something much sexier.
I actually did grind those indexing tabs off, which I believe resulted in me damaging at least 1 engine mount. Once those tabs are ground off, the engine mount rubber portion that is bonded to the stud now twist, severely stressing the rubber and results in damage during the installation process. Reason #5 why I don't like those mounts LOL!!!
Regarding the factory shifter, I welded-up a bracket to reuse the factory ford shifter cable. A little crude, but its tough laying on your back due to the lack of a lift in my garage But, the shifter works perfect and all the factory pieces are intact (console, shifter etc). I think you could make something much sexier.
I didn't have any problems with the 4.6 mounts on the stock K-member and I'm sure much of that has to do with me being able to take advantage of the designed purpose of the index lugs on the mounts. Do you have a photo of the area where the shift lever extends through the floor next to the transmission?
Todd, when you design the headers maybe you could put 02 bungs in them, maybe V-band flanges as well. The Dynatechs did not come with either and for the price they're charging for them…well you could have a leg up on them.
Todd, when you design the headers maybe you could put 02 bungs in them, maybe V-band flanges as well. The Dynatechs did not come with either and for the price they're charging for them…well you could have a leg up on them.
The headers will certainly come with O2 bungs and they will be indexed past horizontal to ensure reliable wide-band sensor operation. The collector outlets will be configured to utilize the same type of couplers that GM, Ford and Chrysler use on their late model vehicles; V-bands are excellent for pressure connections but create ground clearance issues and edges that can catch and hang up on objects passing under the car. The couplers are a slick solution and I'll post a photo of them on Monday so you can visualize them.
Do you have a photo of the area where the shift lever extends through the floor next to the transmission?
Unfortunately Toddoky I dont have any photos of the shifter mechanism from the bottom. You can find about 100 of these shifters on ebay though. I dont seem to remember a lever extending in the tunnel area - just a cable.
It's been a good week for progress on this swap system; I finished up the prototyping of the long-tube headers and have the CAD modeling of the transmission crossmembers about half finished. I'll get right back into it on Monday and keep forging ahead...here's some pics of the header prototypes.
!-7/8" and 3", Todd? That left side went in with the engine on it's mounts?
The headers as shown are 1-7/8" primaries with 3" collectors...they will also be available with 1-3/4" primaries/3" collectors. Yes, both the left and right assemblies install though the bottom of the car with the engine sitting on its mounts. For the installation of the right side, you will have to R&R the spark plugs/wires, dipstick and starter. The installation of the left side will require you to R&R the spark plugs/wires and oil filter...no removal or disconnection of the steering shaft is required. The ability to work this out was a combined result of the tube bend/routing geometry, and the unique engine/mount geometry provided by the Hooker engine adapter plates.
07-30-2016, 12:10 PM
sn95 swap stuff from hooker/holly 
But, the shifter works perfect and all the factory pieces are intact (console, shifter etc). I think you could make something much sexier.
