Pass Side Injectors losing Voltage through Main coil plug
07-30-2016, 07:26 PM
#1
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Pass Side Injectors losing Voltage through Main coil plug The car has been running great since the swap last year, but last week my CE light went off pointing to a P0200 and P0106 faults.
P0200 - Injector Circuit
P0106 - MAP Circult
I dived in and started troubleshooting the issue, and I was able to quickly determine I had less than 3V at all of the injector plugs. I then checked the fuses in the block and both were OK. I then took my multimeter and started checking other items on that same trunk, and I found I had less than the 5V reference needed for the MAP sensor.
Fast forward several hours, and i'll isolated the issue to the Coil Main Connector Plug. When the plug is out, I have 12V at the inj and 5V at the MAP. When I reinstall the main Coil plug, I lose voltage at both inj and MAP. I then swapped the driver and passenger side coils and no difference, but I was able to determine the original passenger side coils worked find on the drivers side with 12V everywhere whether plugged or unplugged. The drivers side made no difference.
I've checked the trunk line and don't see any wire issues, but I would expect that since I have 12V when unplugged. I must be grounding out something when I install the main plug, but I can't find anything wrong anywhere.
Any ideas?
P0200 - Injector Circuit
P0106 - MAP Circult
I dived in and started troubleshooting the issue, and I was able to quickly determine I had less than 3V at all of the injector plugs. I then checked the fuses in the block and both were OK. I then took my multimeter and started checking other items on that same trunk, and I found I had less than the 5V reference needed for the MAP sensor.
Fast forward several hours, and i'll isolated the issue to the Coil Main Connector Plug. When the plug is out, I have 12V at the inj and 5V at the MAP. When I reinstall the main Coil plug, I lose voltage at both inj and MAP. I then swapped the driver and passenger side coils and no difference, but I was able to determine the original passenger side coils worked find on the drivers side with 12V everywhere whether plugged or unplugged. The drivers side made no difference.
I've checked the trunk line and don't see any wire issues, but I would expect that since I have 12V when unplugged. I must be grounding out something when I install the main plug, but I can't find anything wrong anywhere.
Any ideas?
07-30-2016, 07:50 PM
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Do you have any wires going through the firewall? Maybe something rubbed through the insulation?
Andrew
07-30-2016, 07:55 PM
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I do agree on the pass side wiring, but why wouldn't it ground out without plugging in the main coil connector. That's what has me confused.... If something has rubbed through, it should ground out regardless of whether that plug is in or out. Correct?
I do have the main line going through the firewall as the ECM is under the dash. I do have a grommet, but I'll have to crawl under there to check the insulation throughout.
Whats funny is everything was fine 6 weeks ago when I parked it for the front suspension upgrades. Nothing is near the wiring so it's weird that all of a sudden it's grounding out or something else..
I do have the main line going through the firewall as the ECM is under the dash. I do have a grommet, but I'll have to crawl under there to check the insulation throughout.
Whats funny is everything was fine 6 weeks ago when I parked it for the front suspension upgrades. Nothing is near the wiring so it's weird that all of a sudden it's grounding out or something else..
07-30-2016, 08:04 PM
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Have you checked the plug itself? It's just a MetriPack connector....maybe something inside is bad?
I can sympathies with you given my recent electrical problems with the Cougar.
Andrew
I can sympathies with you given my recent electrical problems with the Cougar.
Andrew
07-30-2016, 08:10 PM
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I looked over the hot wire real close, and even pulled it hot to take a closer look. I didn't see anything wrong with it, no burn marks or other abnormal signs as compared to the other side.
Is there another better way to tell if a MetriPack is bad? I do wonder if maybe the wire is being pushed back when connected, but I couldn't figure out a way to check voltage while plugged in.
Is there another better way to tell if a MetriPack is bad? I do wonder if maybe the wire is being pushed back when connected, but I couldn't figure out a way to check voltage while plugged in.
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07-31-2016, 10:11 AM
#8
Random thought that I had:
It might be worthwhile to enlist a 2nd pair of hands/eyes with this - one person to gently wiggle the harness at different locations, while the other keeps an eye on the voltage in question. That might help to locate the problem.
Good luck, I'll be watching this thread to see what the resolution is.
I don't have a lot of experience with this, but what I might do is to disconnect it from the voltage & measure resistance and/or continuity on the voltage wire in question, as well as on some of the other wires going that through that connector. I hope that's helpful.
It might be worthwhile to enlist a 2nd pair of hands/eyes with this - one person to gently wiggle the harness at different locations, while the other keeps an eye on the voltage in question. That might help to locate the problem.
Good luck, I'll be watching this thread to see what the resolution is.
I looked over the hot wire real close, and even pulled it hot to take a closer look. I didn't see anything wrong with it, no burn marks or other abnormal signs as compared to the other side.
Is there another better way to tell if a MetriPack is bad? I do wonder if maybe the wire is being pushed back when connected, but I couldn't figure out a way to check voltage while plugged in.
Is there another better way to tell if a MetriPack is bad? I do wonder if maybe the wire is being pushed back when connected, but I couldn't figure out a way to check voltage while plugged in.
Last edited by Cheese Weasel; 07-31-2016 at 10:21 AM.
07-31-2016, 11:26 AM
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Random thought that I had:
It might be worthwhile to enlist a 2nd pair of hands/eyes with this - one person to gently wiggle the harness at different locations, while the other keeps an eye on the voltage in question. That might help to locate the problem.
Good luck, I'll be watching this thread to see what the resolution is.
I don't have a lot of experience with this, but what I might do is to disconnect it from the voltage & measure resistance and/or continuity on the voltage wire in question, as well as on some of the other wires going that through that connector. I hope that's helpful.
It might be worthwhile to enlist a 2nd pair of hands/eyes with this - one person to gently wiggle the harness at different locations, while the other keeps an eye on the voltage in question. That might help to locate the problem.
Good luck, I'll be watching this thread to see what the resolution is.
I don't have a lot of experience with this, but what I might do is to disconnect it from the voltage & measure resistance and/or continuity on the voltage wire in question, as well as on some of the other wires going that through that connector. I hope that's helpful.
Thanks!!
07-31-2016, 08:34 PM
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Well, I'll close this out with what I found. After swapping everything to isolate the issue, I picked up a circuit light this morning since my old one bit the dust.
I checked every wire from the fuse box to the ECM and everywhere else for any defects. After seeing the post from Cheese Weasel, I got the wife outside with circuit light on the injector plug and I started wiggling wires to see if anything made the light brighter. Finally, I was able to isolate the problem to the the fuse box main wire plug that connects it to the ECM.
It was still connected, but it somehow had worked loose just enough to limit or short out the available voltage for the passenger side. Totally weird thing, but I just gave pressure to each side and while it didn't really move the voltage came back and the car is fine now.
I'll pull apart the connector and add some di-electric grease to help maintain the connection. Maybe it needs to be replaced as this was not fun to chase over the last 1.5 days. Nonetheless, I found my issue and will now plan for a performance solution to ensure it doesn't happen again.
Thanks for all the help!!
Kerry
I checked every wire from the fuse box to the ECM and everywhere else for any defects. After seeing the post from Cheese Weasel, I got the wife outside with circuit light on the injector plug and I started wiggling wires to see if anything made the light brighter. Finally, I was able to isolate the problem to the the fuse box main wire plug that connects it to the ECM.
It was still connected, but it somehow had worked loose just enough to limit or short out the available voltage for the passenger side. Totally weird thing, but I just gave pressure to each side and while it didn't really move the voltage came back and the car is fine now.
I'll pull apart the connector and add some di-electric grease to help maintain the connection. Maybe it needs to be replaced as this was not fun to chase over the last 1.5 days. Nonetheless, I found my issue and will now plan for a performance solution to ensure it doesn't happen again.
Thanks for all the help!!
Kerry
