ls1 over heating
#22
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Location: st. paul mn.
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my bet would be it has a air lock in it still, jack the front of the car up with the radiator cap open start the car use a shop vacuum with a rag over the top of the fill point and cup the vacuum with your hands to use the shop vac to suck the air bubbles through the system y will be able to hear the bubble move through and the level of you radiator will drop about a qt. lets see a picture of the radiator do you have a fan shroud? are your fans coming on? how are they controlled?
#23
my bet would be it has a air lock in it still, jack the front of the car up with the radiator cap open start the car use a shop vacuum with a rag over the top of the fill point and cup the vacuum with your hands to use the shop vac to suck the air bubbles through the system y will be able to hear the bubble move through and the level of you radiator will drop about a qt. lets see a picture of the radiator do you have a fan shroud? are your fans coming on? how are they controlled?
#24
TECH Senior Member
The front steam ports are connected by a crossover tube which has a T in it with a hose from it going to the radiator neck... remove this hose from the T and let air out (to avoid making a mess, redirect whatever comes out using a length if clear tube so you can see when air stops).
#26
Ok thank you. So I attach it to the radiator where the black piece of foam is? Why would the person I bought it from have it set up like this? Also, should I keep the line coming from the transmission cooler attached to the hose under the cap or join it with the steam hose?
#27
Staging Lane
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Ok thank you. So I attach it to the radiator where the black piece of foam is? Why would the person I bought it from have it set up like this? Also, should I keep the line coming from the transmission cooler attached to the hose under the cap or join it with the steam hose?
#29
Staging Lane
iTrader: (1)
Okay, so your cap is sealing off the radiator UNDER that hose. That port on the neck of the radiator is for an overflow tank. So when the pressure in the radiator becomes more than the cap's rated pressure, the cap will open up and bleed off that pressure to the overflow tank. Nothing should be ran to that port except an overflow tank, THAT'S IT.
Whoever ran the steam tube and trans-cooler lines together and into that port on the radiator is a re-tard.
Whoever ran the steam tube and trans-cooler lines together and into that port on the radiator is a re-tard.
Last edited by s14hunter; 08-24-2016 at 05:10 PM.
#32
#35
#36
Staging Lane
iTrader: (1)
On a side note, since you're not running A/C, if you really want a well sorted cooling system you could run a degas/surge tank.
Basically the steam tube(s) get routed to the top of the tank, and the bottom of the tank gets tee'd into the heater core return hose. See the pics below.
You have to make sure of two things:
1. The tank is the highest point of the system.
2. The cap on the radiator is either a non-pressure cap (like the one on the right in the above pic), or rated at a higher pressure than the one on the degas/surge tank.
With this type of setup, you'll have zero chance of air being trapped anywhere in the system which makes the system as efficient as possible and run cooler than basic overflow setups.
Also, you'll never have to bleed or burp the cooling system. Since the degas/surge tank is the highest point, any air in the system will automatically find it's way to the tank, get pressurized and bled off.
Last edited by s14hunter; 08-25-2016 at 01:04 PM.
#37
Ok so the port the the rubber piece on it has no threads. its just a nipple coming out of radiator. Can I buy a fitting to fit the steam hose or should I use the threaded port below with the brass type of plug in it