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Starting a build and a buddy told me I should start a thread on it just because it's fairly unique. The car is an '82 Isuzu i-mark diesel. My previous build was a 9 second '65 Pontiac Tempest that had a turbo 4.8. Had a blast with that car, but after we finished RMRW it was time to send the old boat off and build something a little lighter. Well this car came up and in CA we can't be picky about what comes up, so I bought this gem:
Its small and light. That's about where the pros end. From the factory they weighed low 2000's as far as I have seen, 95" wheelbase. Will be a whole different build from the '65, so I'm hoping to learn a lot and put some of my "skills" to the test.
I've got a block and powerglide for mockup, and so the cutting will begin:
It's pretty close to fitting without any cutting, but I would like to shove the engine as far back as possible to allow for better weight distribution and the inevitable turbo plumbing. All the fast cars I've seen have the crank pulley in line with the spindles, so within a few inches of that I'd be happy. I'd like to run twins on this build just to scratch that itch, but if it is going to be a major hassle then I'll go back to a big single.
The current plan is to essentially plasma cut everything forward of the firewall that isn't "frame", and tube chassis my way to success as this will have an 8.50 cage. The trans tunnel is fairly large, but in order to get the engine back I may be cutting and shifting that back as well. I may be forced to rebuild the trans tunnel entirely to fit the necessary safety equipment.
Currently the only real challenge that I can see will be routing steering. These cars came with manual rack and pinion, which is great, but how it enters the engine bay will set it right next to a motor mount from my cursory measurements. I plan on firing up the plasma this evening and deleting until I've got a good idea of what needs to happen.
You (and me), being in Commiefornia, must know that any post-1975 vehicle is subject to smog inspection. With that in mind, how do you intend to carry this out?
You will need to retain all EVAP gear and converters, plus what else might apply. And don't use a 5.3 or 4.8. Strictly truck engines, and no-go for passenger car use.
Unless of course it is strictly for competition...
Do the doors and windshield look familiar to anyone? It’s based off the T platform from GM, but with a reworked engine compartment and different front and rear sheet metal. More or less the same as the t-series as sold in Australia and South America.
you can take cues from the Chevette builds and don’t have to totally re-invent the wheel to figure out how to make it all work. Have fun, and keep us posted.
Not sure if LS1Tech is taking forever to approve my posts since I have less than 10, so I'm seeing if one without pictures will go through right away. Been picking away at the Isuzu, and pretty much everything but the frame rails remain from the firewall (or what's left of it) forward. I've mounted the engine, got a crossmember for the trans, and laid in the main hoop as well as the forward and window bars for the cage.
....converted to gas. You'll be nailed for it anytime you're stopped for something else.
It is definitely a gamble, but there’s a few rules in my neck of the woods that keeps you from getting stopped:
1. Just cause you have 700+whp doesn’t mean you need to drive like a maniac.
2. Keep it quieter than a stock 2010+ camaro with no exhaust.
I drove my ‘65 with NHRA numbers all over the place for 2+ years - drag wing, cage, speed stickers, you name it. But it had a school bus muffler on it and I drove it like a grandpa. Didn’t get pulled over once.
Forgot I had started this thread. Moved and had to wait a little while for time to continue this build, but here’s where I’m at:
Wheelbase is extended about 8” so I’ll need to do some fancy filler panel between the cab and the clip.
Practically stumbled over an L33 block with forged rods/pistons for dirt cheap, and a buddy gave me a good deal on the turbos (VS 66/73). Was only shooting for 800whp on this build, but now I should be able to push that a little.
I'd be interested in hearing how you fab'd the tilting clip?
It is pretty crude, but here’s the pivot:
I still need to attach the frame side of the hinge for the other side (double shear), but it is 1” tubing for a pin in 1 1/4” DOM for the hinge - or sleeves. I will drill a hole in the pin on either side for cotter pins to retain them.
Welded the bumper side of the hinge with a 1” tube as a jig so they stayed on the same plane.
I can post a pic when I’m finished if that isn’t clear. Will probably put an air shock of some kind to keep it from slamming open, as well as a stop so the hood won’t hit the ground.
07-24-2021, 02:28 PM
1982 Isuzu i-mark 
