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I've had the car for about 16 years -- it's been 5.0L Ford powered since 1996. Car has 220k miles on it - about 120k on the 5.0L. I'd mildly modded it over time (H/C/I/Exh) and it worked well. But I'd always wanted a bit more power and refinement so decided on going with an LS3. Weighed/studied all the options (new, used, aftermarket vs factory ecu, etc) and decided that for me the best approach was a new crate engine along with pedal/O2 sensors/harness and 08 Corvette ECU from PSI Conversions. Some pics below of the bay as it was and as it is now. Also removed all the Volvo factory HVAC (kept dash/defrost vents of course) and am replacing it with a Classic Auto Air system --- something that will have a chance at keeping the car cool during warm/humid southeastern U.S. summers. Easiest to do this with the engine out of the car. Ended up going with Speedway stainless cast headers, used Volvo splines and re-did the steering shaft, cut/reinforced the stock crossmember so I could pull/install engine/tranny together, Mast oil pan. The Holley set the front of the engine higher than I wanted it -- I was able to match the engine/tranny location and angle with the new LS3 that I had with the 5.0L. Since the old combo worked so well, I didn't want to futz about with location or angle if I could avoid it. Decided to stick with my T5Z for now and if it's not up to it, I'll put a TKO in it -- the QT bell will take either trans - so the swap just requires modding the mount and putting a different clutch disc in. McLeod alum flywheel and PP/disc.
I'm one day away from an attempt to start the new engine. Been at it for about a year. It passed rudimentary electrical tests today. I removed a TON of wiring that had sort of accumulated over the years. We'll see how it goes and I'll report back.
Car has big brakes, Ford 8.8" w/3.55, and full Koni/Eibach/IPD/Kaplhenke suspension. Also dual 2.5" through new Coyote 5.0L OEM mufflers. I'll just mod the h-pipe to connect to the new manifolds.
On my way to Augusta from Charlotte to pick up A/C package.....it was a nice day for a drive in the 'other' car. Replacing Volvo HVAC (Swedes A/C can't deal with S.E. USA) with universal Classic Auto Air system.
The 5.0L was a good soldier for 19 years....Parted it out -- netted about $3300; cleaned up engine bay, filled holes, painted rattle can black to help 'hide' harness, hoses and for easy touch up.
Where the old HVAC unit went - middle of dash - behind center console; positioning of Classic Auto Air unit.
After lots of details -- looks like this on the inside --- you can see new Classic electronic hvac controls and just see a bit of the fan motor inlet peeking out into the compartment up under the passenger side of the dash.
Lucky with bell alignment...
First test fit of brand new crate LS3, swapped oil pan for a Mast Motorsports unit
Howe Racing custom Rad with all the ins/outs I wanted; mounted my "old" (15 years) SPAL fans.
Steering mock up first with wooden dowels, then with .500" steel shaft.
Mockup of x-member mod, and finished x-member in car
Bolt-in x-member reinforcement -- bolts in after engine is sitting over mounts.
VSS on Diff....
Corvette Filter/Reg on stock Volvo inline fuel pump mount plate under back end of car...
3rd mount - torque strap....
Head pipe mock-up...
Last edited by Michael Yount; 07-23-2017 at 08:33 PM.
Adding Volvo gas pedal to electronic throttle pedal ***'y - put pedal in precise position it was before for perfect heel/toe
Low mnt Sanden, low mount Escalade alt, and CTS-V PS mount; have about 2.5" more clearance to fans than the 1/4" I had with the Ford.
Holley valve covers
Example of before/after wiring tidy-up
Air intake mock up
ECU/relays mock up passenger footwell
Fabbed/painted bits....
Modded Volvo fender badge for rear deck lid
Ready to go in last time (after 10-11 in/outs)
Condenser install and hook up....
Of course, lots and lots of details on wiring, fuel lines, battery (trunk) cable reroutes, just generally making things fit, look good and be removable for repairs should they need to be. Good bit of work on clutch cable routing and clearancing body (BFH) for the end of the clutch arm. Here is how it sits tonight before first attempt to start tomorrow.
Last edited by Michael Yount; 07-23-2017 at 08:13 PM.
It's an Autometer coolant temp gauge -- I won it at a car show and wanted to do something with it. Inside is the stock Volvo VDO temp gauge. I have both senders mounted in the rad right under the inlet hose (hot coolant from engine). In situations like this especially (new motor startup/trouble shooting) it's nice to keep an eye on temp when the engine might be left idling for longer periods of time.
AND.....Houston - we do NOT have a problem! Well, maybe a tiny alternator control problem - more on that later. Based on my alternator thread and others I searched through, LOTS of folks have some sort of challenge with charging/charge monitoring and hardly anyone can tell you how to set it up correctly the first time.
It fired after about 2 seconds of starter on the first try. 2-3 seconds of valve train noise as oil filled everything up. Settled right into a 600 rpm idle as smooth as a Honda. MUCH quieter under the hood than the old 5.0L. 55 psig oil pressure. Check engine light lit on ignition "on" and went out once it started. No fluids on the ground. No exhaust leaks. It just sat there and idled like it's been doing that for....a long time. Wow - so much adrenaline right now that I dare not work on it for fear of hurting myself.
Only problem so far is no idiot light for the alternator. It didn't come on with ignition 'on' as expected -- and didn't come on when running. Plus - I was seeing 14.7V at the battery at idle, so something is amiss. The guys at PSI are gonna help me trouble shoot that.
Video to follow as soon as I can figure out how in the hell to share that with you. You're welcome to come over and watch it on the phone.....LOL!
Looks nearly factory... amazing work, super clean and tidy and great attention to detail.
Does the frame handle it well? Or have you seam welded etc previously?
LS volvo 240 is my dream swap in future, if I don't do an SXV10 camry wagon before hand... wagons are my thing lol.
Thanks for the kudos guys. Trying to do something that looks OEM.
Originally Posted by S2KIWI
Does the frame handle it well?
As mentioned in the original post, this car has been V8 powered since early 1996 - over 20 years. While today's cars have improved big time in uni-body stiffness and rigidity, the 240's unibody is more robust than many cars of the same vintage that came with V8's from the factory. The 'frame' seems none-the-worse off for the extra torque.
Last edited by Michael Yount; 07-23-2017 at 08:18 PM.
Dark garage (night shot) and no flash. My LED strip triggered by LED bulb in OEM underhood light housing do a pretty respectable job of lighting the bay.
Last edited by Michael Yount; 07-23-2017 at 08:20 PM.
Just a couple questions.
1: how close is that strut mount to the intake? I have been eyeing it but I have a truck intake, Ben says it will clear but I have my doubts.
2: does that air conditioning work good? And do you have more pictures of the install? Like ducting and stuff like that.
For others following along who might be interested - haven't charged a/c yet. Want to get all start-up bugs worked out first. Hopefully in a week or so. But I'm confident the new system will out perform the 82 OEM Volvo A/C here in the humid/hot S.E. US.
Clearance at the top of the motor is a function of LOTS of variables - among them - which intake, what type of motor mounts (how much does it move around under torque), what type of oil pan, how much clearance above the rack you're comfortable with, clearance to cross member, whether your caster/camber plates have the tower reinforcement plates mounted above or below the top of the tower, what your engine/drivetrain angle is, etc. In my opinion it's impossible to generalize and say 'yeah, it'll clear your truck intake.', especially if your swap has already been done. More accurately - it can probably be MADE to clear the truck intake, but you may have to work at it. However, the LS1/LS3 style intakes are so much lower profile than the truck intakes (I have almost 3" of clearance), safe to say they will clear this type of strut bar.
Last edited by Michael Yount; 09-13-2016 at 07:54 AM.
For anyone else following along - Jeremy (above) asked about the Classic Auto Air Street Rod Cooler III HVAC system. I charged the A/C this afternoon. It all went without a hitch. Car handled idling for an hour/hour and a half like a champ. Got about 23.2 ozs of fill in on an "ideal" 24 oz fill. Pressures right where the folks at Classic said they should be. 36F temps out of the center vent on an 88F day. And enough air at that temp to cause some 'fog' spots on the OUTSIDE of the front and rear side windows. So far so good -- nice to have A/C in the car that will actually handle the summers in the south.
Last edited by Michael Yount; 10-20-2016 at 07:38 AM.
09-05-2016, 08:33 PM
LS3 in 82 Volvo 242 
