Boy Scout

Been in & out of the local P & P getting AC hoses & misc this & that, and noticed the AL water pumps, AC housings & whatever with the white corrosion.


I'm about ready to try and start a 2010 AL 5.3. It was outdoors for a few years, then been in my garage for another 3 years. Oil & fluids where drained, and the plugs kept in the block.


Seems that I saw a recommendation to disconnect the fuel pump and crank for a bit to build oil pressure before actually starting. Are there any other precautions for the first attempt? Anything specific to the AL block?

Edit: To clarify the engine was been assembled. (The 1st part of my post was meant to reference exterior corrosion on other engines in the junk yard )

I guess I'm over cautious. Just been working on other aspects of this project for several years.

ls1_chevelle

iTrader: (9)

Start it half throttle to the floor. As soon as it barks to life, push the gas pedal into the firewall as hard as possible.


In all seriousness.. Seeing how the engine wasn't assembled, I would unplug the fuel pump fuse, pull plugs and let the motor spin over a bit to get oil flowing.

As far as the aluminum goes... Nothing special. Just make sure the engine has coolant in it(fill from the upper rad hose until you cant fit anymore. Fill rad and verify level once the t stat opens up

lizeec

iTrader: (57)

Wouldn't hurt to squirt a bit of diesel fuel or transmission fluid into each cylinder and turn it over by hand a few times and also remove the valve covers and squirt some regular 30 weight all over the valve tips and rockers. As said earlier no difference between iron or aluminum block de-hibernation.

jimmyg

Lizeec is right . I would def put some mystery oil in the cylinders. Even though plugs were in, some of the exhaust valves were open. When I bought my ly6 from the bone yard, one of my cylinder walls was kinda rusty from the valves being open during storage.