LQ4 into a 1940 Ford coupe
11-13-2016, 01:32 PM
#1
LQ4 into a 1940 Ford coupe I'm about 3 weeks into this. Engine is a junk yard find with a really bad #1 rod journal. Got it with the pcm, full harness, starter, alt, manifolds and p/s pump and brackets and front O2 sensors for $330.
Full rebuild kit in hand inc reground crank and with upgrade to flat top full floating pistons. 2002 LS6 cam, valve job and heads surfaced and block honed. The owner is looking for 400hp so I'm close with this much in add ons. I'm using early C5 exhaust manifolds and a new 2-1/2" will be bent to suit. Which mufflers is up in the air.
The car already had a 327 and 350 turbo and a mustang rack so some of the work was already done.
The problem areas: keeping A/C, exhaust routing on driver's side, ECM location, fix drive line angle.
First problem encountered was the A/C. The engine mount wants to fall in the middle of the compressor bracket AND the front of the bracket where the tensioner mounts rests on the steering rack. I could have moved the mount back from the cross member to the frame and used the gen3 mount but that wouldn't fix the interference with the rack. Compressor relocation in order.
I need to say here that I have another complete LQ4 on an engine stand beside the car. I'm using the bare block for fitment purposes and adding brackets and heads as necessary. When I tried to put the passenger side head on, it was in contact with the firewall. I had to slot the engine mounts and trans mount to move the engine ahead 1/2". The S&P adaptors also necessitated slotting the mount holes to the frame mount. Those 1/2" thick plates raised the engine a touch and the angle relations to the pinion angle was 5-1/2 degrees off. I never like an angle deviation over 5. 1/2" under the trans mount solved that.
The 99 Vette manifolds are stainless steel not cast so they are easier to modify. They are also center dump which fits this application nicely. The steering shaft is 2 piece, 1 from the wheel through the floor to a u joint and 2nd to a u joint at the rack. The top joint was interfering with the under side of the last runner. The column had a provision to move inward 1/2" and not cause an issue with the brake pedal location. HOWEVER, the steering shaft was smack in line with the manifold collector. I cut the collector off with the intent on angling it in or out. In would bring the down pipe VERY close to the oil filter and require cutting the shaft and adding a u joint and bearing support. Out would also require cutting g the shaft and adding a joint but with the stub shaft on the rack pointing outward the bottom joint would be at its angular limits. The solution was almost too easy. A 1" spacer between the head and manifold put the collector centered in the space between the frame and the steering shaft. I haven't tried yet but it looks like the column can be in its original location also.
Now if I can just get the pics from my phone to the site I'll be golden.
Bob
Full rebuild kit in hand inc reground crank and with upgrade to flat top full floating pistons. 2002 LS6 cam, valve job and heads surfaced and block honed. The owner is looking for 400hp so I'm close with this much in add ons. I'm using early C5 exhaust manifolds and a new 2-1/2" will be bent to suit. Which mufflers is up in the air.
The car already had a 327 and 350 turbo and a mustang rack so some of the work was already done.
The problem areas: keeping A/C, exhaust routing on driver's side, ECM location, fix drive line angle.
First problem encountered was the A/C. The engine mount wants to fall in the middle of the compressor bracket AND the front of the bracket where the tensioner mounts rests on the steering rack. I could have moved the mount back from the cross member to the frame and used the gen3 mount but that wouldn't fix the interference with the rack. Compressor relocation in order.
I need to say here that I have another complete LQ4 on an engine stand beside the car. I'm using the bare block for fitment purposes and adding brackets and heads as necessary. When I tried to put the passenger side head on, it was in contact with the firewall. I had to slot the engine mounts and trans mount to move the engine ahead 1/2". The S&P adaptors also necessitated slotting the mount holes to the frame mount. Those 1/2" thick plates raised the engine a touch and the angle relations to the pinion angle was 5-1/2 degrees off. I never like an angle deviation over 5. 1/2" under the trans mount solved that.
The 99 Vette manifolds are stainless steel not cast so they are easier to modify. They are also center dump which fits this application nicely. The steering shaft is 2 piece, 1 from the wheel through the floor to a u joint and 2nd to a u joint at the rack. The top joint was interfering with the under side of the last runner. The column had a provision to move inward 1/2" and not cause an issue with the brake pedal location. HOWEVER, the steering shaft was smack in line with the manifold collector. I cut the collector off with the intent on angling it in or out. In would bring the down pipe VERY close to the oil filter and require cutting the shaft and adding a u joint and bearing support. Out would also require cutting g the shaft and adding a joint but with the stub shaft on the rack pointing outward the bottom joint would be at its angular limits. The solution was almost too easy. A 1" spacer between the head and manifold put the collector centered in the space between the frame and the steering shaft. I haven't tried yet but it looks like the column can be in its original location also.
Now if I can just get the pics from my phone to the site I'll be golden.
Bob
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Motown 454 (12-11-2021)
11-27-2016, 07:49 PM
#6
TECH Resident
My 1935 Ford sedan has basically the same frame as a 1940 and I used the Corvette engine mounts and cast aluminum brackets. A set of frame pads had to be fabricated at the front crossmember (MII). The early Corvette "sheet metal" manifolds are working nicely.
It seems like a lot of people spend a quite a bit of time using non-LS, old style Chevy mounts. Even with the adapter plates and all...in these old cars I can't see it.
Using a Victor Jr and Holley Sniper TB got around the old "where can I put the throttle body" in these small, short engine bays.
It seems like a lot of people spend a quite a bit of time using non-LS, old style Chevy mounts. Even with the adapter plates and all...in these old cars I can't see it.
Using a Victor Jr and Holley Sniper TB got around the old "where can I put the throttle body" in these small, short engine bays.
12-08-2021, 08:33 PM
#7
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My 1935 Ford sedan has basically the same frame as a 1940 and I used the Corvette engine mounts and cast aluminum brackets. A set of frame pads had to be fabricated at the front crossmember (MII). The early Corvette "sheet metal" manifolds are working nicely.
It seems like a lot of people spend a quite a bit of time using non-LS, old style Chevy mounts. Even with the adapter plates and all...in these old cars I can't see it.
Using a Victor Jr and Holley Sniper TB got around the old "where can I put the throttle body" in these small, short engine bays.
It seems like a lot of people spend a quite a bit of time using non-LS, old style Chevy mounts. Even with the adapter plates and all...in these old cars I can't see it.
Using a Victor Jr and Holley Sniper TB got around the old "where can I put the throttle body" in these small, short engine bays.
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12-08-2021, 08:59 PM
#8
TECH Senior Member
Oscar Will hasn't been here since July of 2017
