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Are you scared of permanent modifications? Wait until you buy something, take it out of the box, measure it and start cutting on it within the hour. Hahaha!
I'm curious how the fbomb tank will work for you. It's been a long time since I was under one of those cars.
I almost cut the 3 bolt flange off the headers as soon as I unboxed them. hehehe
It's just that when I cut something as important as what connects me to the front tires....something usually goes terribly wrong and I have a one-in-ten million problem with little chance of successfully completing it. I can see myself disabling the car for months and months by cutting it and not having the means to buy or fabricate everything needed to complete it. just the way my luck runs.
The F150 rear mount fuel tank is a fairly common swap for non-wagon tri-fives. Once the spare tire well is eliminated, the tank is a pretty sweet fit. I even ordered new straps/brackets instead of digging for old rusty ones in the boneyard. lol
I dug up an old MAF sensor tube that I'd picked up for my Tundra nitrous install but never used. Looks like a perfect fit for a 2011 GM MAF sensor and it's even the right diameter tube. That felt really nice. Something went right for a change.
Ordered a new throttle body tonight. The old style 3 bolt TB won't work with my 2011 harness and ECM. Ordered the MAP sensor as well.
Ebay fuel rails are en route as well.
Got my block back from Mann Speed Specialty and test fit the camshaft to make sure the bearings feel good. Nice fit. Time to start bolting this puppy together!! WOO HOO!!
Installed my crank and it's time to torque the caps down so I looked up the specs on my engine. Turns out I have an LH6, not an LC9. Hahaha!
So, I attached the specifications on this particular engine as PDFs at the bottom of this post.
I painted the valve covers today, too.
Last edited by socal57chevy; 03-30-2017 at 09:46 PM.
Torqued the main bolts after aligning the thrust bearing using my highly sophisticated and freshly printed tightening angle gauge tool.
LS motors seem to seep oil past the 8mm main cap side bolts so I use just a smidge of anaerobic sealer under the head of the bolt to replace the factory sealer that has worn off.
I almost cut the 3 bolt flange off the headers as soon as I unboxed them. hehehe
It's just that when I cut something as important as what connects me to the front tires....something usually goes terribly wrong and I have a one-in-ten million problem with little chance of successfully completing it. I can see myself disabling the car for months and months by cutting it and not having the means to buy or fabricate everything needed to complete it. just the way my luck runs.
Good thought process but I thought that is why some smart chap invented the welder... Hahaha!
Nice torque angle gauge, I always do them by eye. Hahaha
Good thought process but I thought that is why some smart chap invented the welder... Hahaha!
Nice torque angle gauge, I always do them by eye. Hahaha
I usually do, too. I only did it because it's an aluminum block. Hahaha
I'm in the process of upgrading my old flux core welder to gas. I need to test the gas valve outlet to see if it's 12v or 24v so I can order the solenoid/valve.
Originally Posted by squarles67
Looking good!
The torque to angle thing was a bit odd for me the first few times but I got used to it.
Wait until you torque the balancer on, took a real long cheater pipe for me
I have my cheater pipe ready. LOL
I was still wrenching in a dealership when torque to yield started hitting real heavy. I was like...WTF??? Then I went to class and learned the science behind it. Do I see fewer blown head gaskets on engines that use TTY head bolts? Nope. HAHAHAHA!!
Cool project, def sealer on the side bolts, they can create a mess, lol
Cool idea on the fuel tank, what sending unit do you use to match up with the fuel gauge ohms.
Cool project, def sealer on the side bolts, they can create a mess, lol
Cool idea on the fuel tank, what sending unit do you use to match up with the fuel gauge ohms.
Thanks man!
I have a new 0-30 ohm gauge that I haven't installed yet so I can still go 3 ways with it. I have in my head to either:
1) Transfer my 57 sending unit to the Ford pump assy. (w/255pump)
2) Swap gauges and use a gauge matched to the Ford sender.
3) Leave my old sending unit and pick-up in the tank, then drill and install a fuel bulkhead connector in the bottom of the tank to feed a frame mounted fuel pump.
I'm actually leaning toward the last option at the moment. I'd use a Vette regulated filter and run the return line to my original fuel sender outlet.
No matter which way I go, I want "returnless" fuel delivery at the engine compartment with as short of a return line as possible. I may install the upper shock mount cross member and use it as a mounting point for my regulator assy as well as the shocks. These Ford truck fuel tanks aren't baffled (nor is the original tank) so I was planning on tossing a Holley fuel mat in there to help keep the pump from starving.
I'm personally not a fan of external pumps. They tend to be noisy and not live very long compared to their submerged brothers. At least in the experience I've seen. Maybe there are different options now.
To do an external pump, you will probably need a sump which creates it's own variety of problems.
I'm personally not a fan of external pumps. They tend to be noisy and not live very long compared to their submerged brothers. At least in the experience I've seen. Maybe there are different options now.
To do an external pump, you will probably need a sump which creates it's own variety of problems.
I looked at that very tank, actually. The reason for the Ford tank was the extra capacity. I've seen a lot of external pump kits being used without a sump so I'm hoping I can get by without it. There's actually about a 1" drop in the center of the tank where I was considering the hole for a -6AN bulkhead connector. I made a pickup tube out of an old sending unit a few years back and still have all the tube and fittings mocked up. I had even swapped my sending unit over to it using clamps to secure it to the intake tube.
The Ford pump module has a plastic housing to hold fuel to help stave off starvation under acceleration and turns so I easily lean back toward that thing with a 255 pump and my sender adapted to it. I need to lay all my stuff out and lay it out so I can wrap my head around every option while looking at it. I confuse myself less that way. Hahaha.
If you use something like Hydramat, you won't need a sump. Then you can make the pickup like you designed and put a Walbro (or other quality pump) on the frame rail.
If you use something like Hydramat, you won't need a sump. Then you can make the pickup like you designed and put a Walbro (or other quality pump) on the frame rail.
Well, I just spent a couple hours out in the garage thinking this over and this is what I came up with.
1) A 16-158 ohm fuel gauge is $20 and I was gonna replace my gauge anyway.
2) The Ford fuel pump module would be a direct fit for the tank opening as opposed to having to make an adapter plate for my factory 57 Chevy sending unit...and it would have my supply and return lines already present.
3) I wouldn't need a fuel mat because the Ford unit has a plastic anti-slosh reservoir.
4) I wasn't really enthused about punching a hole in the bottom of a brand new fuel tank.
5) This way keeps the pump in the tank where it's quiet and lives longer. GFWC, you're right...fuel pumps like to push, not pull. They always perform better when in a push position.
After much profound brain things inside my head, I have decided to use the Ford pump assy with a 255 fuel pump and replace my 0-30 ohm fuel gauge with a 16-158 ohm gauge.
Yes, the pallet of $100 bills you were going to deliver to my house hasn't shown up yet.
Seriously, though... a Walbro 255 is a great upgrade pump for these engines but what is your power goal? I know you are going through the engine, just make sure that is enough pump for your needs. I don't know your power goal, I'm just trying to help you cover your bases.
Yes, the pallet of $100 bills you were going to deliver to my house hasn't shown up yet.
Seriously, though... a Walbro 255 is a great upgrade pump for these engines but what is your power goal? I know you are going through the engine, just make sure that is enough pump for your needs. I don't know your power goal, I'm just trying to help you cover your bases.
Hahaha! The Benjamins are still on the drying racks.
You have a good head on your shoulders and I appreciate the input. My goal is 550ish HP with the Magnuson S/C. These are the pumps I'm looking at for the Ford fuel pump module. I read that a full size Walbro 255 won't actually fit the factory Ford module so this is the option I would use...don't necessarily need the Walbro name, just don't want to lean the thing out over a few bucks in a fuel pump. I'd buy a new $75 fuel pump module, then install the upgraded pump from TRE. I like the idea of doing the least amount of modifications to get to the end result...while keeping up with fuel demands of 550hp when I mash the skinny pedal.
In other news, the ceiling in the garage dropped a huge chunk of sheetrock on my wife's car (BMW Z3) at some point today while I was helping my oldest daughter install new kitchen cabinets. Ugh.
Last edited by socal57chevy; 04-02-2017 at 10:35 PM.
My ebay fuel rails showed up today. Gheigh purple color, but I might leave them. Then again...I might sand them and leave the satin sanded grain texture, too. We'll see. The timing set also arrived. I'm getting the pistons prepped and will hopefully get them shoved into their new homes some time this week.
I know there are several internet fuel flow calculators that tell you the theoretical ideal injector and fuel pump for a given pressure and HP output. According to the math, my setup is out of injector and possibly pump. According to the data logs logs I'm either out of pump, injector or close on both at 4 PSI. I knew the injectors were too small when I installed the supercharger, but they were the only ones I had that fit the LSA intake (stock LS3 injectors).
One thing I would steer away from is using the Corvette filter / regulator for a forced induction application. You really need something that will raise pressure at a 1:1 ratio with the boost. I know that is a weak point in my fuel system, but the fuel system wasn't designed from the start with the supercharger in mind. For now I don't care as there are so many other things on my to-do list I simply wont go WOT. Besides, I need to get the part throttle tune closer before I decide how I'm going to slay the fuel delivery dragon.
Well, take a few of those Uncle Benny's and buy the good woman a new paint job.
New parts are always fun, even if they are the incorrect colour.
Good call on the Vette regulator. Another tidbit that I hadn't thought through to the end yet. Half my brain is consumed with what it's going to take to make it run with the truck intake, the other half is puckering up over the price of the S/C. Good heavens, it doesn't require a $6000 price tag to cover the creation of a supercharger. It's like I'm paying Magnuson a friggin luxury tax to kill my own tires.
Time to get busy selling my quad so I can fund the major go-fast part of this project.
Nice little interlude with the kitchen work. That came out well.
Sorry about the car, I had the same thing happen at my parents house 25 years ago to my Impala. The sheetrock bent a bit of trim around the windscreen and cracked the glass. In helping with the home repair process I learned why I will buy or rent a sheetrock jack if I ever need to hang sheetrock on a ceiling again.
03-27-2017, 11:10 PM
I usually do, too. I only did it because it's an aluminum block. Hahaha
