The pics below show the transport wheels with some moons I just set on to see how they might look.
Starting to tear apart the truck.
Bare frame back from blaster
My dad and I painted the frame with rustoleum on a still day.
Frame before C notch cutting.
When I was mocking up the c notch I decided to go ahead and build it as high as possible since I was welding it in anyways. So the c notch itself is fully welded, the frame is reinforced with uprights immediately in front of and behind cut and a horizontal reinforcement laid across the cut on the TOP side of the frame. Finally, I boxed in the frame with plate steel.
Below are some pics that show the finised c notch.
Next it was time to remove all the old bushings to replace them with poly. .
I had to machine some spacers or sleeves to make the bushings fit the shackles as they were too small for some odd reason.
One of the first dry fits for the LQ4 in the frame. Interesting factoid, I was planning on using polyurethane engine mounts but…… I had forgotten the fact that you have to drop the lower control arms to back up the nuts that hold the rubber/poly mounts to the frame. All this just to change engine mounts, plus I had quite a bit of fun stuffing all four control arms back into the frame with the poly bushings.
Not wanting to deal with that again, plus the fact that racetruck ……. “Solid mounts it is” I said outloud.
Squaring everything up in the frame:
Got the cab back on.
Dropping in a Walbro 255 which I have later learned will not be enough pump for my goals. I’ll probably change it out to a Walbro 450.
Putting the TrueTrac back together after pulling the axle shafts to install NBS disc brakes on the 14 bolt. Oddly I cannot find any photos of the brake assembly coming together, I’ll have to snap some other photos since that part is done.
Starting to figure out the racetronix fuel pump hotwire harness. I have to say, their whole company attitude which I learned about after having already bought this thing makes me not want to do business with them. Hopefully I hooked this up correct, it seems simple enough but some more thorough directions or any at all for that matter would be great.
The bellhousing, front plate, input shaft, and an assortment of shims that I used to convert an LTx based T56 to LSx based.
A quick but very effective tool I slapped together. It’s made of scrap steel I had laying around. This lets you use an engine stand hold the T56. It mounts on the two ears on the side of the trans case.
A lot of the parts for the GMT 400 are interchangeable. The doors apparently are not one of them I should have been paying more attention, but the early doors have this indention to clear the inner metal panel and also for the pull handle to attach. The door I bodyworked and painted was from a 2000 Silverado “Classic” 1 ton. I decided to just weld this in since it’s covered by the door panel anyways.
I put the first AN bung right the way of a bolt for the oil pan
No bid deal, just weld it up and grab another one.
Checking out pilot bushings. I never liked pilot bearings, especially having had one that destroyed an input shaft once.
I had to turn down the remote bleeder fitting that goes into the slave cylinder in order to get it to slide in. It was a few thousandths oversize, easily corrected with emery and a way to spin the fitting like this drill
Laying the turbo under the hood of the K5 to check rough fit.
I made a blockoff plate for the CCP valvethingmabob. IAT location perhaps?
I drilled and tapped the oil cooler blockoff to ¼ NPT and used a 6AN to pipe thread fitting for the oil feed to the turbo
After learning about decapping injectors from sloppy and elsewhere I figured I’d give it a try. The injector on the left is stock. The injector in the middle shows the cap as it has “lifted” from the injector during grinding, it’s barely attached at this point. The far right injector shows what you end up with. Keep the grinder away from the poppet valve in the center, could ruin an injector if you’re not careful while grinding off the cap.
My understanding is that while this injector mod increases flow, it also changes the spray from a more finely atomized mist to more of a faucet just shooting fuel in. The normal turbulence in the charge pipes and intake in a turbo application should make up for this. I seem to recall that this is actualy pretty similar to what the aftermarket injectors are anyways.