92slowmaro

iTrader: (22)

yeah so i just finished up helping out with a 71 ss chevelle ls1/t56 swap. and we put the master/booster from a 4th gen in it and it made one hell of a difference. so i was wondering if i put htis in my thirdgen i know it will help braking considerably but how would i go about hooking my stock brake lines to the master? is there any conversion fittings or has anyone done it?

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (17)

Hey man...hows it going. When I did my swap into my 87, I used the 4th gen (99 Z28), booster and master. I also used the 4th gen front brakes...as well as the rear brakes. In any case, the thing stops like mad now.

My suggestion... Talk to the guys at SJM Manufacturing. They are a sponser on here. Grab their ABS delete kit. You can either get it with a line lock...or without. Here is why I suggest it...

They give yousome nice prebent lines, that with alittle coaxing will fit the third gen. You get all of the correct fittings to go into the master cylinder. And you get a wilwood adjustable proportioning valve for the rear brakes. Your car will stop like crazy if you do all the upgrades...but will still greatly improve if you do rear discs, and the new master. The booster isnt really as important.

Here are a couple pics of my set up... I got the one with the line lock included.





This is the "T" fitting for the front brakes. I could have done a better job with this...looks kinda ugly but works great. I put some 1/4" split loom on those lines to hide them a bit.



Basically, its a line from the master, to a T, to both front brakes...all in 3/16" line. Then for the rears, its the line from the master, through the adjustable valve...then 1/4" line all the way to the back.

Hope that helped ya..any more questions feel free.

Justin

P.S....You dont HAVE to go with an SJM kit...but it just seemed easy to me, instead of trying to source the fittings and all. Like I said, even though the kit was for a 4th gen, it only took a little bit of tweaking for all the pre-bent lines to work.

shr00m-dew

iTrader: (28)

Going 4th gen will just give you a nicer looking master, it's not going to change the performance. If it's going in your 92, you can just swap it in. One of the threads on the master is a slightly different pitch (M12 versus M13 I think), but it will thread in and not leak.

Kevin D.

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (17)

I thought that the 4th gen master cylinders were better for stopping power as well? The booster doesnt change much, but I thought the master did. A lot of them feed dual piston fronts and rear discs... gotta be something different in the amount they push out does it not???

Like I said...I might be mistaken...but...in any case, he is right. They do look much better if nothing else haha.

Justin

bygblok

iTrader: (4)

I could see maybe doing the swap if you were going to change over to a 4 wheel disc setup but even at that, wht not just change the MC, get an adjustable proportioning valve and set your own brake bias up. I can't imagine the braking being much better if the system is all good. My third gen stops just fine........ now the "looks" department as far as the MC could use some help though...

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (17)

Yeah my thirdgen stopped "ok" as well... But nothing compared to how it stops now. I mean, I realize I stepped up to dual pistons and rear discs...but man what a difference. I had some issues with my old brakes, and I literally hate drum brakes with a passion. In fact...my Jeep had front discs rear drums, and I converted the rear drums to discs using Grand Cherokee parts. I also did the same with the master cylinder and lines. Used a newer master cylinder, ran the fronts straight off the master, and the rear through an adjustable valve. Just makes a world of difference.

The only thing better (in my opinion) than having a ton of power to push you back in the seat, is having confident, strong, consistant braking to give those seatbelts a work out. Handling is good too... I guess maybe my old brakes were just THAT out of whack though...I just keep seeing such good results from newer master cylinders and ditching the prop. valve for an adjustable rear one.

Justin

92slowmaro

iTrader: (22)

yeah ive already converted to lt1 rear disc cus thats the only disc brakes i could use with my strage 12bolt. but im converting to ls1 front brakes this christmas so i wanted to convert the mc and booster too.

so your saying that both lines will thread in?

bygblok

iTrader: (4)

my 9" thats going in the car has disc's on it so I'll be doing the conversion anyway. I was just going to use a disc brake type M/C and an adjustable valve. Didn't see a need in changing the rest although cosmetically it's a whole bunch cleaner looking

z28evans

iTrader: (4)

my 3rd gen with 4th gen master cylinder (i moved the factory brake lines away from the motor some to clear future turbo setup):

shr00m-dew

iTrader: (28)

All I'm saying is they did on mine.. I believe the 90.5-92's have the 'close enough' threads on the one port. The earlier model units have different threads.

The proportioning valve needs to be changed out when going to different brakes, but the bore and stroke of the master was either exactly same or not bigger enough to worry about.

Kevin D.

MrDude_1

iTrader: (4)

since you have a 92, it'll work.
however, the #1 thing you can do is put in an adjustible prop valve... thats 90% of your current problem.. thirdgens bearly use the rear brakes from the factory.

the 4thgen does have a larger bore... but that is really needed.

you can reuse the lines... i reccomend reusing the stock ones since they're a PITA to bend that tight... then cut and reuse the stock prop valve bracket for the linelock and prop valve

heres a old Old OLD pic of mine... (btw, the line lock looks crooked but it isnt)

92slowmaro

iTrader: (22)

awesome. so i can just take out the stock proportion valve and put the adjustible for the rears and the line lock for the front? and everything just bolts up for the most part correct?

MrDude_1

iTrader: (4)

the master cyl bolts up, no prob.
the brake booster can fit, although the studs on it are slightly smaller then your stock 3rdgen ones.


the stock 3rdgen master cyl brake lines have a metric bubble flare on both ends.... all aftermarket parts, including teh linelock and aftermarket prop valve(i reccomend the wilwood) use a standard double flare.

the trick is:

1. cut the end off.
2. slip a standard thread tube nut on.
3. flare it.. use a METRIC flare tool... this is because the tube is metric. a standard flare tool WILL slip. and unless you have a second set of tubes, you only have one shot at this.
   the fact that its a metric tool makes no diff because 45* is 45*... its only metric because of the slight tube size dia diff...

i did a writeup on it awhile ago.. its either here or on Thirdgen.org.