millerd

Working away on my '05 Avalanche 5.3 into my '58 Apache truck. Now installling Auto Meter guages. Intended to drill & tap boss into removable fitting above oil filter. However, my aluminum fitting has no flat surface to tap into; it's just tit shaped between the bolts. So, before I get creative and really screw things up I thought I'd ask for help. Can I assume that the "old style" LS1 fitting will fit my engine? Anyone out there struggled with this? If if fits, any suggestions about where I might get the part so I can "drill and tap" the boss? Other suggestions? I'll summarize and post my eventual solution. Thanks, at some point here, I'll assemble photos and post them. Best regards and happy new year, D.

eagleuh1

I just tapped mine and installed my 96 S10 sending unit into it. Mine didn't have the boss either. There seems to be enough thickness there to work. I set mine into a drill press vise, then set the table at slight angle. tapped it and installed sensor with thread seal. Works so far.

Geezer's Garage

Don't know if this will help with your Avalanche pan but my 2005 Envoy engine has two threaded and plugged holes at the left rear of the pan (maybe for an oil cooler?). I replaced one of the plugs with an adapter fitting and hooked up the plastic tube that goes to the pressure gauge I'm using on my temporary test stand.

I also have a 2006 GTO oil pan and it has the same plugs at the rear plus the tit shaped cover at the left front of the pan just above the oil filter. The cover and the plugs are all joined together by two tubes inside the pan.

See pix for a clearer explanation.

G-Body

iTrader: (4)

I just removed the LSx oil pressure sending unit from behind the intake and put a metric to american adapter in with my sending unit. The computer does not use the oil pressure sending unit, it is just there for the gauge cluster.

Bimmer Tech

iTrader: (1)

Did you connect the two holes inside the oil pan then? On my camaro oil pan, i had to drill a hole to connect the two passages before I plugged those two holes, otherwise the engine is cut off from the oil coming out of the filter.

datboibrad

iTrader: (1)

what he is saying is. the gto oil pan is front sump. so the filter and everything is routed to the front. well isntead of redesigning the block as well GM just put tubes connecting the from the original oil filter location over to the front. well with those two tapped fittings there you can easily tap into those relocating tubes for temp or pressure

red90cobra

iTrader: (36)

i would just do this.

70Nova SS

Hey where did you get the adapter from?

G-Body

iTrader: (4)

I think it might have been autobarn, but I`m not really sure anymore. I know I ordered it online. The adapter I bought was in a kit with 4-5 of them, and it was made by equus (sp?) but there are a few different places that make them, they are listed in the FAQ sticky.

G-Body

iTrader: (4)

The P/N is here https://ls1tech.com/forums/showpost....5&postcount=11

millerd

Still working on the 58 truck with 5.3/ Auto Meter oil pressure and temp sensor issues. But I thought I provide a progress report. Regarding the Equis oil pressure & Electronic Temp Metric Adapter kit: be advised that the M12x1.5 adapter needs to be installed w/caution. This adapter's walls are quite thin, the one I used broke off as I was snugging it in; you can imagine the verbs that accompanied my "no!....no!!!" I used a bearing grease smeared tap to get the remainder out, managed to get it all. Next, I got an Auto Meter metric adapter 2277. The temp sensor did not fit as the adapter hole was too small. Carefully drilled it out and installed. Seems to be good. The AM adapter comes with a crush ring, the Equus adapters do not come w/ crush rings. Will pull pressure sending unit at rear, but having trouble finding socket to pull it. Anyone know what size will fit?

stealth71

iTrader: (15)

Looks like 1 3/16"

http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/lis13150.html

millerd

Ok, here is the summary about my solution. This relates to my effort to hookup a 5 gauge Auto Meter (electronic) set to my 5.3/4L60e into my 1958 Chevy Apache pickup.
The issues were how/where to attach the temp sensor and the oil pressure sensor.

Re the oil pressure sensor: used the 100 psi pressor sensor that came with the kit, attached to the top rear of the engine where the oil pressure sensor was located. This is the solution recommended by most folks. I checked with John at Speartech about removing this and substituting it with the Auto Meter sensor; he confirmed my information from the LS1 Engine Kit Installation Guide that "The signal from the oil pressure sender is not used by the PCM." To make the attachment, I removed the sender with a 1 1/16 Oil Pressure Switch Socket (Lisle 13250, purchased at local auto parts store, about $9). Apparently this sender might alternatively be 1 3/16 on other engines; in this case - Lisle 13150. I used the appropriate adapter from the Equus Oil Pressure & Electronic Metric Adapter purchased from AutoBarn.com (EQU6848) connected to a 90 degree bend from Summit (Aeroquip FBM2147 Blue Aluminum). I have been advised to use anti-sieze on all fittings to the engine. Also, I will complete the installation once I get a crush ring for the Equus adaptor.

The alternative to this location is above the oil filter. My issue with this was that I had no boss to tap; my cover was "tit" shaped. According to my information GM OEM part 12551587 (~ $ 32.00) should substitute and can be tapped as necessary. This places the sensor near the headers, so some plumbing may be necessary. A possible disadvantage to this location suggested by some is the sender's life may be shortened by the heat. So if you have the room between your firewall and the top rear of the engine, the "top engine" location may be better. Alternatively, a remote sender might be located on the firewall using adapters and braided hose.

Re the temp sensor: I obtained the Auto Meter metric adapter 2277 (1/8 NPT to M12x1.5) to Auto Meter 2259 Elec. Cyl. Head Replacement sensor (Summit ATM-2259). The Equus adapter was thin-walled and broke off as I tightened it. Use caution on install, anti-sieze, and you should get by with it; or get the 2277 adapter and drill it out to fit the sender that comes with the guage kit. My solution was to scrap the latter and just get the 2259 sender which fits into the 2277 adaptor, which comes with a crush ring.

Hopefully my information will be useful those working on 5.3's and the like, I believe that it will also apply to LS1 folks dealing with gauge hookups. I have got much useful information thru this site and thank everyone who has responded. I'll keep you folks updated on my efforts. Happy to entertain additional information/perspectives/corrections. Best regards D Miller

cnichols

iTrader: (23)

I was able to remove the oil pressure sensor in the back of the block with an adjustable wrench...it's not in there very tight (only 15 ft.-lbs.) Even if I would have done damagae to the sensor, if you're not using it no need to buy a special tool to remove it. Just my two cents.

Another easier solution for your gauges...

Buy Japanese made gauges...they already come with metric threaded sensors so no adapters are necessary and they're better quality than Autometer by a long shot. However, they are more expensive, but the look and quality improvement make it worthwhile.

Some brands to consider...

HKS
Defi
GReddy
Apex'i

Or my first choice...British made Stack ST8130 Gauge cluster. Expensive, but IMO worth every penny and you can order it with metric or standard threads. Brings everything into one kick *** unit.

I went a middle road personally with the Apex'i (Apex Integration) DECS EL2 Tachometer w/ shift light. This has a digital readout and two plug-ins for a temp and pressure sensor. I'm running my oil pressure and water temp to the tach and calling it a day while keeping my stock gauge cluster so I don't have to fool with making a fuel level gauge work.


*Comes in black or white face

Zedzag

iTrader: (7)

I bought some cheap sunpro metric adapters for oil pressure and water temp from amazon and realized that they needed a crush gasket to seal them. I chucked them and bought the autometer ones which came with the proper crush gaskets and they worked perfectly. The water temp adapter needed to be drilled larger to fit the smaller adapter to which the sender screwed into. Install the two water adapters together then thread them into the head to avoid snapping the drilled one.

Here's the autometer p/ns I used:
Electric Temperature or Pressure 1/8" NPT to M12x1.5
Product #:
2277

Oil Pressure 1/8" NPT to M16x1.5
Product #:
2268

70Nova SS

I'm gonna try something a little different and see if it works. When I bought my motor/trans the factory oil sender was broke right were the metal base meets the plastic top section. Well I'm gonna try to drill and tap the base of the factory sender, this should take care of the adapter problem and maybe even get the sender that came with my Dakota Digital guages out of the manifolds way. I'll take pictures if it works.

Project GatTagO

iTrader: (7)

This is another solution:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/turbo...mZ150044040271

Andrew

mullenh

iTrader: (1)

i don't know where the sending unit is on a 5.3 but on my ls1 it was behind the intake. I too am using autometer and also had to tap the hole to change it from a metric to SAE fitting.

G-Body

iTrader: (4)

Yep, the oil pressure sending unit is right behind the manifold on all the engines in the LSx family.

68 CHEVELLE IN CALI

whya re people talking about using the oil pan fitting, while there
is a fitting for the electric gauge behing the intake.
Is one better to use than the other?