rao

iTrader: (18)

For those who are interested.

I mocked up the transmission today and everyting looks good so far. The motor is going together soon - a mildly built 402.

I am using Mike Collins' parts and they are of excellent quality.


Short block:



Shifter:



Transmission in place 1:



Transmission in place 2:



Transmission crossmember:



LH engine mount:



RH engine mount:



LH engine mount:



RH engine mount:

LS1 Swapper

Looks great, good choice on the engine. TSP?

What camshaft/heads are you going with?

Rear subframe is going to get twisted, just a bit of heads up.

rao

iTrader: (18)

Yep. Texas Speed.

Very mild - ported LS6 heads and a 228/228 114 lsa cam, ls6 inake manifold.

Well my car already has the reinforced mounting points and I installed the diff brace to keep the front diff bolt from snapping. I also plan on doing all new bushings for the diff and rear end. We'll see how it holds up. I am betting that I won't get enough traction to bust things up too badly.

sprbxr

iTrader: (1)

What is your driveshaft setup? I am building an LS1 E36 to road race in NASA GTS. I am stripping the chassis now. It should be in the 2500 lbs range. I am will be running a Jerico transmission. I have been thinking about a stand-alone EFI setup but I already have the stock ECU and harness. To save some bucks initially, I will probably stick with stock engine management.

Justin

rao

iTrader: (18)

It is going to be a shortened stock driveshaft. My car has the rear CV joint type, which I have never seen before.

I would keep the stock EFI set-up, unless you need to do some really strange stuff, there is no benefit to goiing stand alone, IMHO.

LS1 Swapper

Nice, that is going to idle like a stocker but make big power everywhere. Nice sleeper setup.

The rear subframe that holds the differential is going to twist, I'll guarantee you'll have more then enough traction to cause this to happen. Specifically the rear diff mounting brackets. They need to be reinforced or they will twist, I went through three different levels of reinforcement before the twist stopped. Fun, taking it apart, welding, painting, installing, watching it twist more, straightening it with a massive tee handle, pulling it apart and welding more bracing in, rince and repeat. Finally got it to stop, the plating and it's location was vast.

Which front bolt brace bracket do you have? Hopefully it isnt that junk AA one. You want the bolt in double shear, not the factory single. It won't last with a 402CI.





We installed this on the third car, as it still has the North American M3 Diff like yours, even it cracked at the welds on the differential. Make sure it is welded on correctly with the right fill rod.

rao

iTrader: (18)

That's the plan for the motor.

I'd like to know more about what you did. I can't really tell from the picture. My diff has a 6 bolt flange, but otherwise looks like that.

It looks like you welded a piece to the diff itself and to the cross member.

LS1 Swapper

That is a picture from the website of the fellow that makes the part.

http://www.maximumpsi.com/main.html

Basically yes the piece is welded onto the differential, no need to take it apart, just don't do all of the welding at once.

The rear subframe reinforcing is a whole lot more complicated and since it's installed in the car I can't take much for pictures that would explain it all.

The two brackets that come off the subframe that hold the rear diff bolts need to be boxed in, while your doing it box in the rear swaybar mounts as they tend to tear off. I welded up and box in the entire part the last time, putting gussets and support bracing where ever it made sense.

rao

iTrader: (18)

Thanks for the info!

I need to get under there and take a look.