super_kev

iTrader: (5)

I have complete front and rear LS1 brakes and master cylinder from an '02 that I installed on a 3rd gen. I was planning on running the rear line through a Wilwood proportioning valve and then to the rear brakes. For the fronts, I was planning on running the 3/16" line to a T, and then to the front brakes. However, from reading this thread, it sounds like combo valves are there to help let you know if one of your brake circuits has a pressure drop.

Since my I got all my parts from an '02 T/A with ABS, do I really need a combo valve (which is essentially a pressure meter and a non-adjustable prop valve in one) if I'm not retaining any of the stock braking system? I think ABS units had the combo valve built-in, so were there 2002's offered without ABS (so I could purchase the combo valve separately), or should I not bother with it?

Rodder

iTrader: (2)

You could use the 1st gen junction block to pick up the warning light.

super_kev

iTrader: (5)

Edited for accuracy. Yes, I could, but the 3rd gen ('85) unit is rather bulky, and I want to get rid of it, since I will have a nice clean engine bay otherwise. Did '02's come with non-ABS combo valves?

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (17)

Im not running one. Willwood valve for the rear. nothing on the front. There is a sensor in the master cylinder for fluid level. If you have a pressure problem, you will know it....you wont stop. haha. Ide rather know that my fluid is getting low.

There are a few other threads around talking about not using a prop valve. You can also check over at thirdgen.org.

I will say...with my current set up, my car stops EXTREMELY well. Very balanced, very strong. Probably the single best upgrade I could have done to the car next to the LS1 swap itself.

Justin

Overview of my set up...

super_kev

iTrader: (5)

Sounds good to me, that's what I was planning on doing, but I wanted to know what I'd miss out on without a combo valve. What size T did you use to split to the fronts after the line lock?

Rodder

iTrader: (2)

Nope, I meant 1st gen. The 1st gen junction block (also called a splitter block or distribution block) is not a combination valve. It's just a tee and a coupler with the differential pressure switch sitting inbetween them. No metering valve, no proportioning valve. GM didn't start using combo valves until 1970.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...erer/br-15.jpg

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (17)

Everything for setting up my brakes came from SJM Manufacturing. Im pretty sure they are a sponser here. Really good guys to deal with. I went with them because they provided the valve, line lock, and stainless prebent lines with the correct fittings for the master cylinder. Granted the kits are for 4th gens, but with some tweaking it doesnt look too bad in a 3rd gen.

Anyway, the "T" s just a 3/16" T fitting. I think the T itself is pipe thread, then there are adapters that go into that that accept the double flare fittings.

My layout is as follows: Fronts - Master, to line lock, to "T" fitting, to each front caliper. All 3/16" line. Rears - Master, to willwood valve, to rear brake hose, then split to each caliper. Its 1/4" line to the back of the car, and where it splits to each caliper its 3/16". Im using the master cylinder, power booster, front and rear calipers from a 99 z28.

Took alittle bit of fiddling to adjust the rear brakes to where I liked them. I think my front to rear bias is like 60/40 right now. And it feels great. Even in rain.

Hope somewhere in that babbling you got some answers!

Justin

RE AND CHERYL

iTrader: (31)

The guy in that thread is an idiot. Other than providing a switch to tell you that half of your braking has failed (As if I didn't know that when I stepped on the brakes) the stock combo valve is a paper weight in your situation. With a stock combo valve the front and rear braking systems NEVER come together.

Your original plan is sound, go with it.

Re'