95 LS1 Camaro

iTrader: (5)

Has anyone pulled the engine with the transmission attached?

I'm considering making four 1/8" thick brackets to bolt on the upper holes on the front and the back of the heads so I can pull the engine and transmission as one unit. I'm worried that the weight may be to much for those mounting points.

Any ideas? I pulling it tomorrow.

Thanks,
Matt

Schitzo

iTrader: (6)

sure would help.also use grade 8bolts. I used load leveler which makes pulling engine and trans a breeze

hosspowerinc

iTrader: (22)

Drop it from the bottom. WAY easier than trying to take if from the top.

cherryelky305

iTrader: (2)

When we took the pan off of my engine we used two chains held to the heads with bolts from the A/C compressor. Held it all up trans and all with a fork lift . I know probably not the best way but it worked.

67rsss

iTrader: (4)

I always pull the motor and trans together. It is easier. Of course I always pull the front end sheetmetal and core support as well. Easier in the long run. Get a good load levelor (four chain) and a good lift, bolt the chains to the heads and you are good to go.

G-Body

iTrader: (4)

I put my 5.3 in with the trans attached. I used one of the bolts that held the EGR on and an empty bolt hole on the back of the drivers head. No engine leveler for me , I just used a piece of rectangular stock and some bolts to keep the chain spread apart right above the intake because I left the intake manifold on. Yeah I know it was the lazy way of doing it.....thats why I did it that way

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (17)

X 100...

Since we cant pull the front end apart ilke on the older cars, this is a super easy way to do it. No removing the hood, no chance of scratching the paint, no trans fluid pouring all over, headers and entire motor can stay assembled, and lots of other reasons. And you already have to lift the front end some to tilt everything...you only have to go alittle higher with the body to clean the engine and all when its dropped.

I would have never thought to try it in my driveway...but I decided to do it. And man it was the best decision I made during the build. Once you do it one time, it goes really easy the following times. I removed the donor motor, removed my old motor, and installed the donor motor all in this fashion.

Just my opinion tho...I probably sound like a preach it around here sometimes. haha Probably posted the pic 20 times by now too.

Justin

95 LS1 Camaro

iTrader: (5)

Thanks for all the help guys. I have a 4 chain load leveler and will be using 10.9 grade bolts on the heads. The engine is in a 69 Camaro so its coming out the top or should I say out the front. ( the front clip is removed ) Thanks again.

67rsss

iTrader: (4)

The one thing to watch for with putting it into the first gen is keeping a steep angle on entry while clearing the starter ear on the trans. Also, as the trans starts to get real close to the ground and you begin angling it up, watch out for the oilpan to steering linkage clearance. I would HIGHLY recomend you pull you heater core. You really ought to anyway as it can always use a bit of cleaning and the upper tube needs bent a little to clear the #8 coilpack. If you have a big-block core (tubes in the middle of the heater cover), ignore that thought. If you have the large 11" booster in your car, plan on pulling it. You can clear it with the coilpacks off while you are test fitting, but it has to go when the coils are put back on. Also, watch the wiper motor. It isn't as bad in a 69 since they rotated it to clear the big blocks better, but it is still close. With the front end off, and no fluids in the car, what looks like a 4.5-5.0 degree angle on the trans will settle out to about 2.5 degrees once all the weight is back on. We have our trans angle a hair higher than we anticipated. If you want 3 degrees, than setup your crossmember to give you about 5-5.5 degrees with the front end all pulled.

bczee

iTrader: (12)

I wouldn't worry about it.. They are not that heavy where you would snap a chain or bolt. I have see people pull them out with seat belt straps, cables and town straps tied to the exhaust manifold, around the engine, etc (not that recommend it, but the guy I got my pullout did it with seat belts. When I got to his house, it was just hanging from the host by a two seat belts and they were only tied in a knot. Boy did I quickly back the van up and put that down....LOL).

As long as you safely secure the chains with Bolts that are threaded in enough not to pull out and be secure, you will be ok. Your only talking about 600-700 lbs with a LS1/T56 w/accessories and stuff.

9540x

yup, drop from the bottom. I purchased my 5.3 seperate from the donor car (stupid, I know) so I can't really give you any other info on that.

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (17)

nah...he is working with a 1st gen like he said. Since you can remove the front clip, pulling it out through the top is easy. Plus I dont think you can drop those from the bottom anyway. Knowing that it was a 1st gen was key though

Good luck!

J.

67rsss

iTrader: (4)

IT isn't easy, but you can drop the whole subframe to get the engine and trans out of a first gen. Unless you needed to remove the subframe anyway, that method adds too much work, and the sheetmetal still has to come off anyway.

95 LS1 Camaro

iTrader: (5)

Its out! Now I can prep to paint the floorboards, then the suspension can go back on permanently.

67rsss

iTrader: (4)

Let us know what you think of the quadralink.

95 LS1 Camaro

iTrader: (5)

It's going to be a little while before its on the road. I plan on racing it in September on a road course, that will give me a good feel for the setup and I'll make sure I post afterwards.

Actually I have seen it in action first hand on several occasions. It does work very well. I had Kyle Tucker, owner of Detroit Speed, following me in my 4th gen through some TN hills, at a very fast pace. He was right on my rear and the car was level, even in off camber undulating curves.