5.3 and TKO500 in a '66 Chevelle
07-02-2007, 09:16 AM
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5.3 and TKO500 in a '66 Chevelle The engine in the car is not the hard part. I've got a truck oilpan and Speedway motor mount adapters, my real question is the TKO. I've allready got it bolted to an old style 350. What am I going to need to put it on the rear of the 5.3? I'm thinking the flywheel is the only "freak" part?
Thanks for your input.
Thanks for your input.
07-02-2007, 09:57 AM
#2
The LS1 crankshft is .400" shorter than your TKO (or standard SBC/BBC Trans). GM makes a special pilot bearing (PN 12557583) which will compensate for the differnece, but must also use a different flywheel (PN 12562765 for 6sp or PN 12561680 for early style 4 sp) with a 11.7" clutch.
You will also have to use a bellhousing that has the correct bolt pattern for the TKO.. or a bellhousing that has the correct bolt pattern and will also compensate for the different lenght of the input shaft.. (ie McLeod or Lakewood ?).
Why not sell off the TKO and use a 6sp ? that .50 6th gear really pays off on long trips.
You will also have to use a bellhousing that has the correct bolt pattern for the TKO.. or a bellhousing that has the correct bolt pattern and will also compensate for the different lenght of the input shaft.. (ie McLeod or Lakewood ?).
Why not sell off the TKO and use a 6sp ? that .50 6th gear really pays off on long trips.
07-02-2007, 01:57 PM
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Cool, so the special pilot bearing and flywheel should be all it will take. The bellhousings are easy, as the TKO I've got has a Chevy bolt pattern, as I said above it's allready bolted to an old style 350. The ONLY thing different from a Muncie was the fine spline clutch disc, and of course the driveshaft.
As to selling off the TKO, I like the mechanical clutch linkage as apposed to the hydraulic setup. And I've allready got all that stuff. AND, the TKO is brand new, and a T56.....well I wouldn't know what kind of life it's had. So, I'm kinda set on this combination.
As to selling off the TKO, I like the mechanical clutch linkage as apposed to the hydraulic setup. And I've allready got all that stuff. AND, the TKO is brand new, and a T56.....well I wouldn't know what kind of life it's had. So, I'm kinda set on this combination.
Last edited by classic gary; 07-02-2007 at 02:03 PM.
07-02-2007, 02:12 PM
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Uh, old style 350 is not the same bolt pattern as the LS/LQ/LM series. The trans actually bolts to the oilpan now, and some of the hole locations are different... You are going to have to be real creative to get the Z-Bar mounted for the mechanical clutch as well. No where to mount the ball stud. T56 really is a nice trans. My $.02
07-02-2007, 03:38 PM
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What part is not the same as an old school 350? The one I'm buying has a T350 on it right now, that tells me the bellhousing pattern is the same........
As to the clutch linkage, i'm gonna use a '57 Chevy cast iron (heavy, LOL) with the "Z" bar pivot mount on it factory, it puts the Z bar pivot ball in about the same place as a stock Chevelle would be.
As to the clutch linkage, i'm gonna use a '57 Chevy cast iron (heavy, LOL) with the "Z" bar pivot mount on it factory, it puts the Z bar pivot ball in about the same place as a stock Chevelle would be.
07-02-2007, 04:20 PM
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Originally Posted by classic gary
What part is not the same as an old school 350? The one I'm buying has a T350 on it right now, that tells me the bellhousing pattern is the same........
As to the clutch linkage, i'm gonna use a '57 Chevy cast iron (heavy, LOL) with the "Z" bar pivot mount on it factory, it puts the Z bar pivot ball in about the same place as a stock Chevelle would be.
As to the clutch linkage, i'm gonna use a '57 Chevy cast iron (heavy, LOL) with the "Z" bar pivot mount on it factory, it puts the Z bar pivot ball in about the same place as a stock Chevelle would be.
As was said before, the main difference is the length of the crank in relation to the surface the bell housing bolts to. With the right flywheel/pilot bearing combo it should work.
07-02-2007, 05:03 PM
#7
The LSx block is missing the 2 o'clock bolt hole. But is not a problem in not using it.
There are longer Pilot bearing and spacers to handle the lenght of the flange and bell housing differents of the .400". Also the Special Flywheel that are someone dished to move the flyway contact area can be used.. (from GM and aftermarket)
You can read this in many of the LS1 Preformance book and also in the GM LS1 Iegine Kit Installation guide. (PN 88959384).
There are longer Pilot bearing and spacers to handle the lenght of the flange and bell housing differents of the .400". Also the Special Flywheel that are someone dished to move the flyway contact area can be used.. (from GM and aftermarket)
You can read this in many of the LS1 Preformance book and also in the GM LS1 Iegine Kit Installation guide. (PN 88959384).
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07-08-2007, 11:02 PM
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I got the LSx and the T350 in the car today. I'm using the T350 to line up the rear xmember and get the motor mounts in the correct place. Speaking of which, The stock BB '66 Chevelle motor mounts won't work in this case. So I bought a set of Moroso solid motor mounts and turned 'em upside down. When I bought the LS/T350 from the guy he also had a set of CPP (Classic Performance Products) LS engine adapter plates with new rubber mounts. (Sorry no part number). The truck oilpan clears with about 1/2" on the pass side, and about 1 1/2" on the drivers side, (the oilpan has a built in bias to the pass side). The xmember is in the stock Powerglide position. There is plenty of room to get bellhousing bolts in/out except the on the "top" on the driverside were the firewall gets the closest. So the next thing to do is mark and drill a couple of holes to mount the Moroso mounts to the frame. Then remove the T350 and get the TKO/car ready to install, (gotta cut the floor). Oh, I did HAVE TO separate the tranny from the engine to get the engine in, the truck oilpan is deep, and the bellhousing area of the T350 hits the firewall before the oilpan can get past the front xmember. I tried tipping and proding and cursing. So that's were I am right now. I'll post more as I get farther down the line.
07-09-2007, 12:40 AM
#9
Get your self a different oil pan. That truck one will hang way to low.. a F-body one will sit just about even with the X-Member (depending on how you mount the engine), a CTS-V one will hange about 1" below the X-Member (I am using the CTS-V pan). Or one of the After market pans.
For a T56, I used my TH350 Tran x-memeber in the stock location, just cut the mount off, flipped it and welded it (once I had the correct 3 degree of tilt) back on.
For a T56, I used my TH350 Tran x-memeber in the stock location, just cut the mount off, flipped it and welded it (once I had the correct 3 degree of tilt) back on.
07-09-2007, 07:53 AM
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Originally Posted by bczee
Get your self a different oil pan. That truck one will hang way to low.. a F-body one will sit just about even with the X-Member (depending on how you mount the engine), a CTS-V one will hange about 1" below the X-Member (I am using the CTS-V pan). Or one of the After market pans.
For a T56, I used my TH350 Tran x-memeber in the stock location, just cut the mount off, flipped it and welded it (once I had the correct 3 degree of tilt) back on.
For a T56, I used my TH350 Tran x-memeber in the stock location, just cut the mount off, flipped it and welded it (once I had the correct 3 degree of tilt) back on.
Yeah, I've been looking at the pan and how deep it is. But I'm an old school street/drag racer, the '57 Chevy I used to have had an 8 qt. Moroso pan that hung down below the front xmember, on it and the '72 Chevelle I had also had the same pan. I'll just have to think about where I'm driving. And the car might not sit as low as I'd like. I'll probably change the pan at a later date, but for now I'm gonna use what I've got. I'm gonna plug the TKO in this coming weekend, I'll take pics and post 'em.
See ya's.............
07-12-2007, 11:14 AM
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So, I've been working on the car, and I've found out about the tie rod/oil pan issue. Now I'm gonna use a rubber mount from a '69 Camaro 302. It's taller than what came with the CPP adapters, and raises the engine enough to clear the tie rod during full lock left turns. I can still get my hand between the floor and the T350 and still get to all the bellhousing bolts ('cept the upper driverside, I'll just get a little shorter bolt for that location). The alternator is my next project. I'll bolt it on and see what kind of room I've got. Opps, I should first bolt on the power steering box huh.........Oh yeah, what pitman arm is used for a P/S box?
07-12-2007, 06:49 PM
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I blew the rubber mount application. It's NOT the Camaro part. The correct application is late 60's/early 70's "B" body with a 350. The part number is show in one of the pics posted at my Webshots site, along with lots of others showing the clearence of the tie rod and firewall. The Moroso mount is part # 62515.
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2552...yA?vhost=rides
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2552...yA?vhost=rides
07-13-2007, 03:13 AM
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engine came without a harness and computer, so i'm gonna go carb for now. The truck intake, injectors, fuel rails and TB are for sale if anyone wants 'em.
07-15-2007, 12:07 PM
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Originally Posted by classic gary
engine came without a harness and computer, so i'm gonna go carb for now. The truck intake, injectors, fuel rails and TB are for sale if anyone wants 'em.
07-15-2007, 01:14 PM
#19
Originally Posted by pist0lpete
I will assume you already knew this, but just in case you don't even if you don't run fuel injection you still need the computer to work out the timing and run the individual coil packs for the ignition. GMPP makes a kit to mount a ford distributor on the front which would in effect eliminate the computer but its not cheap.
Last edited by LS1MCSS; 07-15-2007 at 01:20 PM.
07-15-2007, 03:16 PM
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Originally Posted by LS1MCSS
Do you have the carb setup already? If not, I can fix you up. I am going with injection and my carb stuff is nearly new.
No I don't havr the carb setup yet. I was kinda hoping someone here would chime in..................
So, what do you have, and how much? I'm in Albuquerque, New mexico for shipping.
Oh, i do not need a carb, just intake and MSD.
I just thought, mine is a 2002 5.3 and I think it has the 60-2 reluctor wheel. MSD makes to different boxes, one for the 60-2 and one for the 24x wheel. So i might not need your MSD, but I'm very interested in the intake.
Last edited by classic gary; 07-16-2007 at 09:05 AM. Reason: addd detail