69 camaro cold air intake?
#1
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69 camaro cold air intake?
Looking for some advice on a "cold air" intake setup. lets see pics of yours.
What vendor?
Trying to find plastic or rubber, don't really want to use metal...
Thanks
ChrisP
What vendor?
Trying to find plastic or rubber, don't really want to use metal...
Thanks
ChrisP
#2
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If you have a Cowl Induction on your 69 Camaro..
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-swaps/643850-chevelle-cowl-induction.html
Made the new base and got the rubber elbows from Jagsthatrun.com. Created a mount that uses the four fuel rail bolts and the EGR bolt hole. I am thinking of switching over from the Rubber elbows to metal tubing/elbows for a cleaner one piece look.
From what everyone said and searching the forum/web.. I am the only one with a functional Cowl Inductioned CAI LS1 w/OEM EFI.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-swaps/643850-chevelle-cowl-induction.html
Made the new base and got the rubber elbows from Jagsthatrun.com. Created a mount that uses the four fuel rail bolts and the EGR bolt hole. I am thinking of switching over from the Rubber elbows to metal tubing/elbows for a cleaner one piece look.
From what everyone said and searching the forum/web.. I am the only one with a functional Cowl Inductioned CAI LS1 w/OEM EFI.
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I would think that with all the 'tuner' stuff at your LAP anymore, you should be able to find a decent tubing kit. If you still have your battery in the engine compartment, take the tube over to the driver side and you should have room to cut a hole in the core support to get the filter behinf the grill. Tons of room on the other side of the radiator.
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I've used 4" schedule 40 pvc L-bends under the hood before... it didn't hold up well being 6 inches from my header with 1700F EGT and pulling 20in-hg of vacuum on it (was running a natural gas carb in a suck-through configuration). It sucked the header-facing side of the bend flat until was completely flat. PVC is only supposed to be used for up to 140F. It'll probably work for non-pressure/non-vacuum, but may get soft and warp when you are sitting in traffic.
The best thing to use IMO is aluminum. I used stainless exhaust tubing for my LS1 swap, but the exhaust tubing is HEAVY. I still need to decide where to get fresh air from and redo the whole thing. I got my stainless tubing from Jegs, and the rubber pieces and T-clamps from intakeelbows.com.
The best thing to use IMO is aluminum. I used stainless exhaust tubing for my LS1 swap, but the exhaust tubing is HEAVY. I still need to decide where to get fresh air from and redo the whole thing. I got my stainless tubing from Jegs, and the rubber pieces and T-clamps from intakeelbows.com.
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#9
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If you are using a cowl hood, what about this idea????
http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/te.../photo_10.html
http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/te.../photo_10.html
#10
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Yeah, I've seen that one, it is the Year One 69 Camaro. you can see more of the Camaro on BRP's web site.
It is not realy a cowl induction as it is using the scoop to feed the CAI and more of a ram air scoop as my design is a fully functional Cowl Induction w/flapper that draws air from the low pressure area of the Cowl. But it does work better than just having the CAI being feed from the inside of the engine bay (using just tubes and a cone air cleaner)
It is not realy a cowl induction as it is using the scoop to feed the CAI and more of a ram air scoop as my design is a fully functional Cowl Induction w/flapper that draws air from the low pressure area of the Cowl. But it does work better than just having the CAI being feed from the inside of the engine bay (using just tubes and a cone air cleaner)
#12
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If your going to just have the Filter in the engine bay, suggest using some sheet metal to isolate the filter from the hot engine and air. Have a hole in the radiator support or ducting in to the boxed off area to allow only fresh and cold air to it.
But in general it shouldn't be a problem for it to just sit in the engine bay.. just not getting optimum performance. When it comes to intake, Colder the better.
But in general it shouldn't be a problem for it to just sit in the engine bay.. just not getting optimum performance. When it comes to intake, Colder the better.
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Originally Posted by bczee
If your going to just have the Filter in the engine bay, suggest using some sheet metal to isolate the filter from the hot engine and air. Have a hole in the radiator support or ducting in to the boxed off area to allow only fresh and cold air to it.
But in general it shouldn't be a problem for it to just sit in the engine bay.. just not getting optimum performance. When it comes to intake, Colder the better.
But in general it shouldn't be a problem for it to just sit in the engine bay.. just not getting optimum performance. When it comes to intake, Colder the better.
I bought a few pieces of a modular system from the LAP and it's aluminum with the only rubber/plastic piece bieng a 90deg at the plenum. Basically, when I was done it came out looking just like Rybars xcept my MAF sits right in the middle of the straight section. Looks like his is at the filter.
After modifing it some more I made it look like Rodders, except mine bends to the right.
After looking at the set up I started thinking(maybe too much) that the exhaust from the top fan blowing on the straight section is doing everything it can to heat up that straight metal duct and make sure the air is heated...so whats the big deal with the cold air anyway...maybe its cooler than the air that 67rsss is breathing but is it that big of a deal?
BTW, I'm using LS1 fans adapted to the 69 radiator.
Nothing is final yet still playing around with different combo's. Maybe even a duct that comes straight forward, up over the core support(flatting out and getting wider like the vette) then dumps over in front of the radiator into a filter. Just thinking out loud. But for now it's Rodder style because I want to start her by this weekend.
*I called a few places here in town about the plastic intake. One place in particular had me laughing. I won't even try to place his accent.
ring,ring
May we help you?
Do you sell 3.5'' or 4.0'' plastic cold air intake tubes
No, we only make and sell metal ones, you don't want prastic...prastic catches on fire!!!
....So the benifit would be that if my car were to catch on fire, I would still have my cold air intake tube..?..
Look, do you want to go to a debate with me?
Yeah, I'll go get dressed...hello....click...
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1% per 10F is the rule thumb I've always heard... so if you've got 200F IAT instead of 80F, that's 12% you're throwing away. For a 325HP LS1, that'd be 39HP you'd lose. No wonder my car feels slow since I put the hood back on....
Oh, better do something about that plastic intake manifold on the LS1.... they're plastic I hear they can catch on fire!!!
BTW, I actually have had a couple of composite intakes explode, but never had one catch on fire. One was on a 97 Rustang GT which blew the cooling jacket due to a manufacturing defect, the rest were on a supercharged ZX6D motorcycle engine. Anything that caused a backfire on the latter would blow apart our hand-made fiberglass manifold. After the 3rd time we pieced it back together, we finally wrapped the whole damn thing in a couple of layers of kevlar and added a blow-off panel. Never had any problems with the air intake tubing on either of them though.
Oh, better do something about that plastic intake manifold on the LS1.... they're plastic I hear they can catch on fire!!!
BTW, I actually have had a couple of composite intakes explode, but never had one catch on fire. One was on a 97 Rustang GT which blew the cooling jacket due to a manufacturing defect, the rest were on a supercharged ZX6D motorcycle engine. Anything that caused a backfire on the latter would blow apart our hand-made fiberglass manifold. After the 3rd time we pieced it back together, we finally wrapped the whole damn thing in a couple of layers of kevlar and added a blow-off panel. Never had any problems with the air intake tubing on either of them though.
#15
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Bump, has anyone found a source of plastic tubing yet?
I have schedule 20 4" PVC right now, but I want to move my intake tubing (MAF is currently behind the rad and it gets to 110-120 deg all the time). Anyway the 4" schedule 20 doesn`t work very well B/C the OD is ~4 1/4". I checked into 3" schedule 40 and the OD is only 3.5"
I don`t really know where to look. I don`t want to run metal since it is a horrible insulator and the engine compartment is pretty warm. Plus I don`t like the looks of metal.
I have schedule 20 4" PVC right now, but I want to move my intake tubing (MAF is currently behind the rad and it gets to 110-120 deg all the time). Anyway the 4" schedule 20 doesn`t work very well B/C the OD is ~4 1/4". I checked into 3" schedule 40 and the OD is only 3.5"
I don`t really know where to look. I don`t want to run metal since it is a horrible insulator and the engine compartment is pretty warm. Plus I don`t like the looks of metal.
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Is the real benifit in placing the IAT in a cooler spot to increase timing and fuel, or does it really matter to the engine (Not the IAT) what temp the air its using is at ?
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Is this due to the readings of the IAT seeing the hot engine compartment temp and taking out timing and fuel?
Is the real benifit in placing the IAT in a cooler spot to increase timing and fuel, or does it really matter to the engine (Not the IAT) what temp the air its using is at ?
Is the real benifit in placing the IAT in a cooler spot to increase timing and fuel, or does it really matter to the engine (Not the IAT) what temp the air its using is at ?
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The radiator is giving away a lot of heat and if your tubing is behind it, it will get hot too.
I have been thinkning about doing a Cowl induction setup like the one described by bczee.
My present setup is like Rybars and the part of the tube behind the radiator gets real hot. One of the fans also contributes by blowing air right on the tube.
Jan
I have been thinkning about doing a Cowl induction setup like the one described by bczee.
My present setup is like Rybars and the part of the tube behind the radiator gets real hot. One of the fans also contributes by blowing air right on the tube.
Jan
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Try this site www.intakehoses.com
They have all kinds of elbos and straight pipe up to I think 5"
Hope this helps.
Sam
They have all kinds of elbos and straight pipe up to I think 5"
Hope this helps.
Sam
#20
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DeMolet does a lot of Mustang stuff and he uses 1/4" thick ABS for all his intake tubing. The plastic is supposed to dissapate heat alot better than metal, creating a cooler intake charge. They put one of the demolet kits on an '03 cobra and gained 25 rwhp, Of course that was on a blown motor so the effects are a little inflated compared to a N/A motor, but in theory plastic makes more power.
look up tuneable performance.
May be will be able to hook you up with a source.
look up tuneable performance.
May be will be able to hook you up with a source.