LQ4 swap into a 68 GTO A-body: Questions
08-26-2007, 02:24 AM
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it was LQ4 now a L92 swap into a 68 GTO A-body: Questions this is going into a 68 GTO / GM A-body with ATS mounts. I don't have the headers yet.
I will be using ATS mounts with 68 - 72 chevelle frame mounts and a CTS-V oil pan.
The 05 LQ4 has 5 miles on it, can I reuse the original ps/wp/alt/ac comp with C5/LS2/Cts-v brackets & hardware?
Should I use a LS2 water pump 89017592 $183.02 S&H $40.26?
The truck clutch/fan assembly is part of the factory water pump?
Will I still have to notch the frame to use AC if: I use the ATS stuff, move the engine to where I want it and the car is a original AC car?
If I use the CTS-V brackets & bolts will I still have to notch the frame for AC?
Do I need to run the PS pump with a Lee 670 box? I would assume yes?
I am sure I missed something so please let me know...
TIA
I will be using ATS mounts with 68 - 72 chevelle frame mounts and a CTS-V oil pan.
The 05 LQ4 has 5 miles on it, can I reuse the original ps/wp/alt/ac comp with C5/LS2/Cts-v brackets & hardware?
Should I use a LS2 water pump 89017592 $183.02 S&H $40.26?
The truck clutch/fan assembly is part of the factory water pump?
Will I still have to notch the frame to use AC if: I use the ATS stuff, move the engine to where I want it and the car is a original AC car?
If I use the CTS-V brackets & bolts will I still have to notch the frame for AC?
Do I need to run the PS pump with a Lee 670 box? I would assume yes?
I am sure I missed something so please let me know...
TIA
Last edited by josht; 04-22-2008 at 06:17 AM. Reason: more questions
08-26-2007, 11:18 PM
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Good Info: thanks / More questions than answers So Basically I have to notch the frame to use AC reguardless of which mounts I use.
Will switching to F-body or CTS-V brakets make the install easier? less playing with locations and adding spacers to clear stuff?
Has anyone come up with a step-by-step install like was done for the Camaro?
Is there a opinion on which is the easiest mounts to use?
Should I sell the ATS mounts and go with different mounts?
Has anyone used the ATS LSX pan yet?
I read that people are using F-body and CTS-V pans a lot, are they easier to use in general or is it specific to chevelle swaps because they had a chevy block to begin with?
TIA
Will switching to F-body or CTS-V brakets make the install easier? less playing with locations and adding spacers to clear stuff?
Has anyone come up with a step-by-step install like was done for the Camaro?
Is there a opinion on which is the easiest mounts to use?
Should I sell the ATS mounts and go with different mounts?
Has anyone used the ATS LSX pan yet?
I read that people are using F-body and CTS-V pans a lot, are they easier to use in general or is it specific to chevelle swaps because they had a chevy block to begin with?
TIA
Last edited by josht; 09-03-2007 at 12:35 AM. Reason: edit
08-27-2007, 06:11 AM
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I'm not sure I would have to notch the frame for the A/C. My engine still isn't as far back as I need it to be (needs about 1/2" more), but it looks like it may all clear....
I believe the F-body brackets would be easier on the power steering side, as the pump and pulley appear to be moved up, farther away from the PS box. It won't help move the oil pan up farther though...
You don't need a step by step. Its still an engine. Just put it in, make sure everything is straight, and make sure nothing hits. Step by steps aren't going to help you with any of that.
I like the ATS stuff, it just wasn't designed for a truck motor in a A-body. None of them were. That makes it a bit harder, but that will make is stand out in the end. I kinda like that its not just a bolt together system. Keeps the lazy dudes out of the circle.
There are gys who have tried the ATS pan. Most have too much money for me to deal with..... They all say it fits though.
What does having a chevy block in a A-body frame have to do with an oil pan? All the A-body frames are the same. Just some had certain motor mount holes drilled in them. The CTS-V pans are less deep in the sump for additional ground clearance and the front of the sump starts a little bit further back so it clears the crossmember a bit better. As far as I know from one member here, the F-pan won't fit without mods.
I believe the F-body brackets would be easier on the power steering side, as the pump and pulley appear to be moved up, farther away from the PS box. It won't help move the oil pan up farther though...
You don't need a step by step. Its still an engine. Just put it in, make sure everything is straight, and make sure nothing hits. Step by steps aren't going to help you with any of that.
I like the ATS stuff, it just wasn't designed for a truck motor in a A-body. None of them were. That makes it a bit harder, but that will make is stand out in the end. I kinda like that its not just a bolt together system. Keeps the lazy dudes out of the circle.
There are gys who have tried the ATS pan. Most have too much money for me to deal with..... They all say it fits though.
What does having a chevy block in a A-body frame have to do with an oil pan? All the A-body frames are the same. Just some had certain motor mount holes drilled in them. The CTS-V pans are less deep in the sump for additional ground clearance and the front of the sump starts a little bit further back so it clears the crossmember a bit better. As far as I know from one member here, the F-pan won't fit without mods.
08-27-2007, 06:21 AM
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http://hccperformance.com/hcc_cars/c...h01/index.html
No you dont HAVE to notch the frame. You can relocate the compressor with an aftermarket accessory kit.
Here is another thread that is very helpful. I too am embarking on an LS install into a 69 GTO.....gathering info at this point.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-swaps/510709-71-chevelle-ls1-t56-progress.html
No you dont HAVE to notch the frame. You can relocate the compressor with an aftermarket accessory kit.
Here is another thread that is very helpful. I too am embarking on an LS install into a 69 GTO.....gathering info at this point.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-swaps/510709-71-chevelle-ls1-t56-progress.html
08-28-2007, 06:10 AM
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More Decisions.. Well I have the ATS Plates and pan already.
$2,500 for brackets, Hell NO! I have not spent close to that amount on one item with the exception of the engine and new 12 bolt rear.
So can I use the the original Alternator & AC Compressor?
I would need a new PS pump and water pump?
I plan on using a LS2 water pump at this point.
I think I will go with the CTS-V brackets and bolts, not sure yet. I still have some time to collect parts before I try and put the engine in. I was thinking of using the CTS-V stuff to get more room but once I finish out pricing all the accessory systems I will have a better answer. I would rather get rid of the truck stuff... It isn't like my project is not behind schedule anyway.
As far as the Chevy block comment, the GTO has a Pontiac engine and mounts and the Chevelle mounting spots are not marked or drilled, at least I can not find them on my frame. So I don't have a starting point.
TIA
$2,500 for brackets, Hell NO! I have not spent close to that amount on one item with the exception of the engine and new 12 bolt rear.
So can I use the the original Alternator & AC Compressor?
I would need a new PS pump and water pump?
I plan on using a LS2 water pump at this point.
I think I will go with the CTS-V brackets and bolts, not sure yet. I still have some time to collect parts before I try and put the engine in. I was thinking of using the CTS-V stuff to get more room but once I finish out pricing all the accessory systems I will have a better answer. I would rather get rid of the truck stuff... It isn't like my project is not behind schedule anyway.
As far as the Chevy block comment, the GTO has a Pontiac engine and mounts and the Chevelle mounting spots are not marked or drilled, at least I can not find them on my frame. So I don't have a starting point.
TIA
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08-28-2007, 06:20 AM
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Right now, I have all the truck accessories in my GTO. It all fits.
To get a car intake to fit with the truck accessories, you need to either press (or bolt on) on a early (or late) F-body pulley to the truck pump, move the truck water tube over and get the Speartech tensioner.
You'll need to set the engine where you want it with the frame mounts attached to the motor mounts and then either weld them to the frame, or redrill the holes where you want to bolt them down. Gives both of us more freedom. Just a little harder to get started, as you'll have to make sure everything is square.
If you chosse the CTS-V brackets, you'l be crossing into uncharted waters as far as fit goes. At least now you know the F-body and truck stuff fit...
To get a car intake to fit with the truck accessories, you need to either press (or bolt on) on a early (or late) F-body pulley to the truck pump, move the truck water tube over and get the Speartech tensioner.
You'll need to set the engine where you want it with the frame mounts attached to the motor mounts and then either weld them to the frame, or redrill the holes where you want to bolt them down. Gives both of us more freedom. Just a little harder to get started, as you'll have to make sure everything is square.
If you chosse the CTS-V brackets, you'l be crossing into uncharted waters as far as fit goes. At least now you know the F-body and truck stuff fit...
08-28-2007, 09:30 AM
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Originally Posted by QSPres
Right now, I have all the truck accessories in my GTO. It all fits.
To get a car intake to fit with the truck accessories, you need to either press (or bolt on) on a early (or late) F-body pulley to the truck pump, move the truck water tube over and get the Speartech tensioner.
You'll need to set the engine where you want it with the frame mounts attached to the motor mounts and then either weld them to the frame, or redrill the holes where you want to bolt them down. Gives both of us more freedom. Just a little harder to get started, as you'll have to make sure everything is square.
If you chosse the CTS-V brackets, you'l be crossing into uncharted waters as far as fit goes. At least now you know the F-body and truck stuff fit...
To get a car intake to fit with the truck accessories, you need to either press (or bolt on) on a early (or late) F-body pulley to the truck pump, move the truck water tube over and get the Speartech tensioner.
You'll need to set the engine where you want it with the frame mounts attached to the motor mounts and then either weld them to the frame, or redrill the holes where you want to bolt them down. Gives both of us more freedom. Just a little harder to get started, as you'll have to make sure everything is square.
If you chosse the CTS-V brackets, you'l be crossing into uncharted waters as far as fit goes. At least now you know the F-body and truck stuff fit...
John
08-29-2007, 08:44 AM
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I did see something incorrect in this thread. Somebody mentioned the Cts-V pan was shallower in the sump. In fact the CTS-V pan is deeper in the sump and will hang below the crossmember causing further ground clearance issues whereas the F-body cannot hang below. However, the V pan does have the sump set back further which would allow you to set the engine a bit more forward. As far as clearance goes the hardest thing is to get teh alternator to clear the steering box. I ended up grinding on my box and its close but I believe with some more tweaking I can make it clear.
08-29-2007, 09:38 AM
#13
Yup.. I have the CTS-V pan on my Chevelle... I hangs about 1" more downward past the X-Member, but is shorter in the slump from the rear to the front (lower slump area). As long as your not going to slam it to the ground, It shouldn't be a problem.
I have been running with out any problems since the end of last year. I think I may have been the 1st to us one in a A-Body from all of the threads I read at the time I was doing it, I had picked up two take off Pan setups from Roy Brizio who was using the engines for a few street rods and switched them to the F-Body pans. I used one and sold the other to BRP (Phill).
I have been running with out any problems since the end of last year. I think I may have been the 1st to us one in a A-Body from all of the threads I read at the time I was doing it, I had picked up two take off Pan setups from Roy Brizio who was using the engines for a few street rods and switched them to the F-Body pans. I used one and sold the other to BRP (Phill).
08-29-2007, 10:53 AM
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Originally Posted by bczee
Yup.. I have the CTS-V pan on my Chevelle... I hangs about 1" more downward past the X-Member, but is shorter in the slump from the rear to the front (lower slump area). As long as your not going to slam it to the ground, It shouldn't be a problem.
I have been running with out any problems since the end of last year. I think I may have been the 1st to us one in a A-Body from all of the threads I read at the time I was doing it, I had picked up two take off Pan setups from Roy Brizio who was using the engines for a few street rods and switched them to the F-Body pans. I used one and sold the other to BRP (Phill).
I have been running with out any problems since the end of last year. I think I may have been the 1st to us one in a A-Body from all of the threads I read at the time I was doing it, I had picked up two take off Pan setups from Roy Brizio who was using the engines for a few street rods and switched them to the F-Body pans. I used one and sold the other to BRP (Phill).
John
08-29-2007, 11:19 AM
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My post about the CTS-V pan being shallower was comparing it to the truck pan...... The original question had to do with a truck motor, which has a truck oil pan. All I said was the CTS-V pan is shallower in the sump area....And it is.
I have no idea how shallow the F-body pan is.
I appologize for not being more specific.
I have no idea how shallow the F-body pan is.
I appologize for not being more specific.
08-29-2007, 11:41 AM
#16
QSPres...no problem, we are all just making comments and talking about options.
F-body is about 5 1/2", CTS-V about 6 1/2" and truck is 8"+..
My CTS-V pan hangs just over a 1" lower thant he X-member, I don't have headers.. but the exhasust pipes, lower a-arms are almost as low as the pan.
F-body is about 5 1/2", CTS-V about 6 1/2" and truck is 8"+..
My CTS-V pan hangs just over a 1" lower thant he X-member, I don't have headers.. but the exhasust pipes, lower a-arms are almost as low as the pan.
08-29-2007, 01:49 PM
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I would say the hooker A-body headers hang even with or a bit higher than the bottom of the F-body pan. I know with my engine set like it is I will hit the frame crossmember long before I hit anything else if I were to bottom out.
QSpres: Sorry for the confusion I just wanted to make sure all the facts were presented as you know us chevelle guys have learned a few things the hard way and we like to help each other out when we can.
QSpres: Sorry for the confusion I just wanted to make sure all the facts were presented as you know us chevelle guys have learned a few things the hard way and we like to help each other out when we can.
08-29-2007, 02:04 PM
#19
LOL.. you got that right Pistol.. don't know how many times I have shot my own foot off due to dump moves..LOL..
Some day I might try and get my f-Body pan welded up right and switch it back, but for now.. I am good with the 1" that it hangs below the x-member
No. it is still a 6 qt pan.
Some day I might try and get my f-Body pan welded up right and switch it back, but for now.. I am good with the 1" that it hangs below the x-member
No. it is still a 6 qt pan.
08-30-2007, 04:16 PM
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Originally Posted by bczee
LOL.. you got that right Pistol.. don't know how many times I have shot my own foot off due to dump moves..LOL..
No. it is still a 6 qt pan.
No. it is still a 6 qt pan.