ls240 clutch engagement issues.
09-15-2007, 03:13 PM
#1
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ls240 clutch engagement issues. I have the wilwood 3/4 master cylinder that is mounted using a 1/8" metal plate to utilize stock mounting studs.
Clutch has been bled several times and the rod on the master cylinder is extended as far as the oem bracket will allow.
It seems that the pedal is in the correct position, and feels nice and stiff.
any suggestions as to why the clutch still will not engage?
Clutch has been bled several times and the rod on the master cylinder is extended as far as the oem bracket will allow.
It seems that the pedal is in the correct position, and feels nice and stiff.
any suggestions as to why the clutch still will not engage?
09-15-2007, 03:16 PM
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how much free play do you have in the pedal till it starts engaging?
ive heard some people have had to make a new bracket for the pedal. mine is all the way out and it engages about 2 inches off the floor.
ive heard some people have had to make a new bracket for the pedal. mine is all the way out and it engages about 2 inches off the floor.
09-15-2007, 03:26 PM
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i guess i didn't type that right....
when at idle the car will not go into gear.....
i can press on the shifter and the car will try to pull itself....but will not go into gear.
when at idle the car will not go into gear.....
i can press on the shifter and the car will try to pull itself....but will not go into gear.
09-15-2007, 04:42 PM
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i had the same problem. wouldn't go into gear with out grinding. basically put it in 1st with car off. start car drive down the road or around a few miles. should free it up and be fine. try that worked for me
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09-15-2007, 09:12 PM
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I had a similar problem after I replaced my flywheel. The car would start in neutral but I couldn't get the clutch to disengage...just grinding. I thought it was a hydraulics problem but in the end it turned out to be the ARP flywheel bolts that I used - the heads on the ARP bolts were too tall, and were interfering with the springs on the clutch disk. I replaced the ARP flywheel bolts with stock bolts and I was good to go!
09-16-2007, 02:11 AM
#9
Originally Posted by JoeZ
I had a similar problem after I replaced my flywheel. The car would start in neutral but I couldn't get the clutch to disengage...just grinding. I thought it was a hydraulics problem but in the end it turned out to be the ARP flywheel bolts that I used - the heads on the ARP bolts were too tall, and were interfering with the springs on the clutch disk. I replaced the ARP flywheel bolts with stock bolts and I was good to go!
thats interesting. what flywheel and clutch were u using?
09-16-2007, 09:06 AM
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Originally Posted by tehdvd
thats interesting. what flywheel and clutch were u using?
Fidanza aluminum flywheel and Centerforce Dual Friction 12" clutch.
After finding the issue, I tested the bolt length on my bench with the Fidanza and the Centerforce, then the Centerforce with a Centerforce steel flywheel. The ARP bolts were too tall no matter which flywheel I tried, stock bolt heads are much shorter than the ARP ones.
