You want GM cruise control on your cable driven TB
09-28-2010, 12:26 PM
#63
the corvette arm is a hollow tube with a splined ":nub" pressed into the end of the tube that is the arm's mount... I pulled out the press fit spline and cut it off about 1/2" from where it was pressed into the tube. I ground a bevel on both parts and welded them together.
to re-assemble I put some JB weld on the splines (probibly didnt need to but safe than sorry) and pressed them back into the corvette tube, and then covered that section with some black heat shrink tubing.
it sounds harder than it was
09-28-2010, 12:34 PM
#64
i used a 70 chevelle rod (same flat screw on end as my camaro) I cut it off with about 3/4" of arm left on it. (total length about 2 inches)
the corvette arm is a hollow tube with a splined ":nub" pressed into the end of the tube that is the arm's mount... I pulled out the press fit spline and cut it off about 1/2" from where it was pressed into the tube. I ground a bevel on both parts and welded them together.
to re-assemble I put some JB weld on the splines (probibly didnt need to but safe than sorry) and pressed them back into the corvette tube, and then covered that section with some black heat shrink tubing.
it sounds harder than it was
the corvette arm is a hollow tube with a splined ":nub" pressed into the end of the tube that is the arm's mount... I pulled out the press fit spline and cut it off about 1/2" from where it was pressed into the tube. I ground a bevel on both parts and welded them together.
to re-assemble I put some JB weld on the splines (probibly didnt need to but safe than sorry) and pressed them back into the corvette tube, and then covered that section with some black heat shrink tubing.
it sounds harder than it was
09-28-2010, 12:57 PM
#65
man you are a HUGE help.. I'd love to see pics of your car if you are willing to share... my email is ChrisWmos@aol.com
10-22-2010, 01:17 PM
#66
Finishing up the wiring for my LSx-T56 powered BMW M3, all that is left is the cruise control wiring for the pedals and control-stalk. The pedal switches had spun me out due to the 2 separate brake switches and 2 separate clutch switches. A few hours of research here and other sites, ChevyThunders manual that came with my harness/PCM, I am pretty sure I have finally figured out the pedal switch wiring and want to run it by you guys before I commit to final connections in the car. Your input on whether this is correct or incorrect would be greatly appreciated. 
PCM and harness were purchased from Leonard, (ChevyThunder). Harness was built for cruise and ahs the cruise module connector and pig tails labeled for the pedal switches and control stalk. PCM is a 411 out of a ‘02 Avalanche, mechanical Throttle body, (have made connection with my HPT to the PCM).
Wire pigtail for pedal switches are labeled as follows;
“Clutch Pedal Position”
“To Stop Lamp”
“Clutch Anticipate”
“Cruise Release Brake Sw.”
My understanding of the pedal switch wires;
1) The “Cruise Release Brk Sw” and “Clutch Pedal Position” wires are wired in series and come from a switched +12v source. When either the clutch pedal or brake pedal are tickled, (starting to depress either of them), that opens the circuit and the cruise control releases the T/B.
2) The “To Stop Lamp” wires needs to be spliced into the bulb side of the brake lights switch so that it can sense the resistance of the light bulbs when the brake pedal is released to verify the circuit is good, then sees the power to the bulbs when the pedal is depressed.
3) The "Clutch Anticipate" switch is another clutch pedal switch that is wired to chassis ground and is normally closed with the clutch pedal released, opens when the clutch pedal is tickled, (starting to depress the pedal). It goes directly to the PCM, Blue Connector, pin 32, does not pass go, does not collect $200. No idea its purpose for the Cruise control other than the PCM wants to know when the clutch is depressed?
Let me know if this correct and/or fill in any holes I may have left.
PCM and harness were purchased from Leonard, (ChevyThunder). Harness was built for cruise and ahs the cruise module connector and pig tails labeled for the pedal switches and control stalk. PCM is a 411 out of a ‘02 Avalanche, mechanical Throttle body, (have made connection with my HPT to the PCM).
Wire pigtail for pedal switches are labeled as follows;
“Clutch Pedal Position”
“To Stop Lamp”
“Clutch Anticipate”
“Cruise Release Brake Sw.”
My understanding of the pedal switch wires;
1) The “Cruise Release Brk Sw” and “Clutch Pedal Position” wires are wired in series and come from a switched +12v source. When either the clutch pedal or brake pedal are tickled, (starting to depress either of them), that opens the circuit and the cruise control releases the T/B.
2) The “To Stop Lamp” wires needs to be spliced into the bulb side of the brake lights switch so that it can sense the resistance of the light bulbs when the brake pedal is released to verify the circuit is good, then sees the power to the bulbs when the pedal is depressed.
3) The "Clutch Anticipate" switch is another clutch pedal switch that is wired to chassis ground and is normally closed with the clutch pedal released, opens when the clutch pedal is tickled, (starting to depress the pedal). It goes directly to the PCM, Blue Connector, pin 32, does not pass go, does not collect $200. No idea its purpose for the Cruise control other than the PCM wants to know when the clutch is depressed?
Let me know if this correct and/or fill in any holes I may have left.
10-29-2010, 01:17 AM
#68
Got the wiring down, using the pedal switches of the BMW and a couple relays was able to mimic the GM brake and clutch pedal switches, now I just want to activate a "CRUISE" light when the cruise is engaged. Does anyone know how the "cruise" light on the dash is activated or a which one of the wires to the cruise control module could be used to activate the cruise light without affecting the cruise functionally?
Thanks in advance,
Paul
Thanks in advance,
Paul
04-24-2011, 10:59 PM
#69
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Sorry if i missed this in my quick skim of this.
I'm using a TKO 500 trans in my swap so my vss signal is not the 4000ppm that a stock trans is, will i still be able to use the cruise control modual that came with my 1999 Silverado parts truck? or will this cause problems for me?
Thanks in advance
I'm using a TKO 500 trans in my swap so my vss signal is not the 4000ppm that a stock trans is, will i still be able to use the cruise control modual that came with my 1999 Silverado parts truck? or will this cause problems for me?
Thanks in advance
04-25-2011, 08:24 AM
#70
Sorry if i missed this in my quick skim of this.
I'm using a TKO 500 trans in my swap so my vss signal is not the 4000ppm that a stock trans is, will i still be able to use the cruise control modual that came with my 1999 Silverado parts truck? or will this cause problems for me?
Thanks in advance
I'm using a TKO 500 trans in my swap so my vss signal is not the 4000ppm that a stock trans is, will i still be able to use the cruise control modual that came with my 1999 Silverado parts truck? or will this cause problems for me?
Thanks in advance
Im not too familiar with what that has for an output signal.
what is the output? 2000 ppm?
other options to correct the signal is the Digital Dakota box.
http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.c...rod&prd126.htm
this might be a good idea anyway since you should feed the pcm a speed signal.
Last edited by 89 formula350; 04-25-2011 at 08:35 AM. Reason: link
04-25-2011, 10:15 PM
#71
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do i wire the control box from the computer or from the vss? once i have my computer tuned for the correct output from my trans would this allow it to work correctly?
04-26-2011, 05:59 PM
#72
yes you can run it off the pcm VSS output. that's how the factory has it. you can see this in the second schematic on the first page. Its how I would do it. but really what ever makes you happy
I would look into the pcm tuning as you can most likely set it up to read with out the converter... In fact the more I think of it Im pretty much positive you can as the f-body one shows where the change is needed
I would look into the pcm tuning as you can most likely set it up to read with out the converter... In fact the more I think of it Im pretty much positive you can as the f-body one shows where the change is needed
Last edited by 89 formula350; 04-26-2011 at 06:07 PM.
09-28-2011, 09:00 PM
#73
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Finally hooked up my cruise on the Firebird today. Using a 4.3 box out of an S10. Anyway, cruise will engage briefly, the accel function works to accelerate for a brief moment but then cruise disengages. Anyone run into this problem?
09-28-2011, 10:10 PM
#74
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10-18-2011, 10:15 PM
#79
if you mean a 2000 f-body cruise module with a 98 f-body pcm then no.. see the original posts. its requires a signal from the pcm that the 98 does not give.
98 f-body cars used a module that did not require this signal (just like the truck unit)
your best bet if this is what your asking is to grab a truck cruise control module. or look for a 98 only f-body cruise module
03-03-2012, 12:32 PM
#80
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Agreed, I used the truck's harness to figure out the pin function but never would have guessed the NO brake wire needed to be pulled to ground without those beautiful diagrams that are usually unobtainable. 
Also, if using a relay to get the NC brake signal remember that the coil will be energized when the brake is NOT pressed. My mistake, but hopefully a pointer to others.
Also, if using a relay to get the NC brake signal remember that the coil will be energized when the brake is NOT pressed. My mistake, but hopefully a pointer to others.