Ls1 in fox. factory 4.6 kmember is a no go
11-08-2007, 01:27 AM
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Ls1 in fox. factory 4.6 kmember is a no go Well I "dropped" my ls1/t56 tonight and I'm sad to inform you guyz that the factory 4.6 kmember from a 96 mustang(I used a 99 GT) does not allow the engine to fit. I tried for over 4 hours with no success. The oil pan touches the bottom of the kmember and wont allow the engine to drop down. Also the back of the head is touching the firewall.
My options are to either notch the kmember where there is contact with the oil pan or buy a tubular k-member.
Also I had to trim a piece of the casing t56 that was sticking out on top and touching the trans tunnel.
Somebody said that the oem k-member worked but they were not doing it on a fox. (was a 96 mustang IIRC) The fox's firewall is closer and doest allow the motortrans to be lined up at the right angle for it to clear the pan.
I "think" that the stock 4.6 kmember could still be used but the kmember would have to be installed after the motortrans in in place.
My options are to either notch the kmember where there is contact with the oil pan or buy a tubular k-member.
Also I had to trim a piece of the casing t56 that was sticking out on top and touching the trans tunnel.
Somebody said that the oem k-member worked but they were not doing it on a fox. (was a 96 mustang IIRC) The fox's firewall is closer and doest allow the motortrans to be lined up at the right angle for it to clear the pan.
I "think" that the stock 4.6 kmember could still be used but the kmember would have to be installed after the motortrans in in place.
Last edited by jfman; 11-08-2007 at 03:31 AM.
11-08-2007, 09:12 PM
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Do you have access to a lift? If so, and it does fit but just cant be bolted together while in the car - then assemble everything on the ground outside the car have it resting on stands and then lower the car down onto the k-member and trans. This is how we(most shops) do any of the late model stangs especially if they are 32v cars. It's just plain easier to get to everything.
11-08-2007, 09:25 PM
#3
Btw: yes the head *slightly* touches the firewall. But it does fit with a 4.6 factory k-member. I actually just knocked in the firewall with a copper hammer slightly and you couldnt tell by looking and it cleared by about 1/4" inch.
Also just notch the k-member and reweld in a inverter piece or swap to a truck oil pan. Fits fine.
Also just notch the k-member and reweld in a inverter piece or swap to a truck oil pan. Fits fine.
11-08-2007, 09:32 PM
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LOL - Forgot to ask what pan he was using...
I went with the f-body pan for mine and it fits like it was made for a stang. I used a UPR K member and solid modular mounts.
I went with the f-body pan for mine and it fits like it was made for a stang. I used a UPR K member and solid modular mounts.
11-08-2007, 10:14 PM
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Yes I am using the fbody pan.
I dont have access to a lift and I would like the ability to pull the motor with a hoist whenever I need to. Everytime you remove the kmember, you have to compress the springs etc... too much trouble.
I'm gonna pull the motor back out this weekend and i'm going to notch the kmember and weld a filler piece in and also I'm going to massage the firewall a little bit where it needs to be.
Trans tunnel is very thigh as well but dont know if I need to be messing with it.
I dont have access to a lift and I would like the ability to pull the motor with a hoist whenever I need to. Everytime you remove the kmember, you have to compress the springs etc... too much trouble.
I'm gonna pull the motor back out this weekend and i'm going to notch the kmember and weld a filler piece in and also I'm going to massage the firewall a little bit where it needs to be.
Trans tunnel is very thigh as well but dont know if I need to be messing with it.
Last edited by jfman; 11-08-2007 at 11:56 PM.
11-08-2007, 11:37 PM
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You shouldn't have any issues running the t56 in the fox at all. I would think that if it's hitting, you probably have the cross member holding it too high if anything. What part of the trans is hitting the tunnel? Front, rear, center? I know this may be a dumb question - but are you sure it's not just hitting where the shifter is supposed to go? Good luck. Like I said tho. Should have no problems. Stang guys have been running the t56's in foxbody's for a long time.
Hope the input helps...
Dave
Hope the input helps...
Dave
11-08-2007, 11:52 PM
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The t56 fits but you see I am unable to raise it high enought to allow the mounts to fal into place. If I could raise the trans a few more inches, it would allow the mounts to drop into place then then I could lower it to the prper mounting height.
The shifter has been removed for the install of course. I dont have a tranny xmember made yet. a guy that I met who has a terminator swap in his fox told me he can make me an xmember just like his for $150. But I have to drop the combo in first to measure the location of the trans in relation to the mounting point.
I'm gonna post some pics for you guys tomorrow.
The shifter has been removed for the install of course. I dont have a tranny xmember made yet. a guy that I met who has a terminator swap in his fox told me he can make me an xmember just like his for $150. But I have to drop the combo in first to measure the location of the trans in relation to the mounting point.
I'm gonna post some pics for you guys tomorrow.
Last edited by jfman; 11-08-2007 at 11:59 PM.
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11-09-2007, 12:38 PM
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Do you have an attachment for your engine hoist that lets you tilt the motor front to back? I have installed a lot of stang motors with the trans attached this way. Just thinking out loud... Doesn't seem like it should be such a PITA.
11-09-2007, 01:25 PM
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It DOES work 
I've seen a couple done this way -- but yes, some massaging here and there is necessary. You can't do a swap car and expect things to bolt in as if they were factory 
I've seen a couple done this way -- but yes, some massaging here and there is necessary. You can't do a swap car and expect things to bolt in as if they were factory
11-09-2007, 01:30 PM
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I dropped it in at a 45 degree angle then I installed a jack underneath the rear tranny mount to level it off. now its resting on the k member but not in its place.
11-09-2007, 07:21 PM
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It's not the money that bothers me, its the design. I dont know if I want a tubular kmember on a street car... I hear they bend easely and have issues with flexing being noisy and the car wont handle as well as before.
11-10-2007, 04:59 PM
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If it's not a money thing then for sure get an aftermarket K member - soooo much easier to deal with. Lots of room for any additional tubing or....
11-10-2007, 09:45 PM
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Not true if running a good quality K member. They handle better as there is little to no deflection compared to the stock stamped steel crap. The do not bend unless you go with something that is designed for drag and then you may have issues. As for noise.... you will only gain noise based on what A-arms or what bushings the A-arms have...
If it's not a money thing then for sure get an aftermarket K member - soooo much easier to deal with. Lots of room for any additional tubing or....
If it's not a money thing then for sure get an aftermarket K member - soooo much easier to deal with. Lots of room for any additional tubing or....
Plus I already have the whole thing assembled. I'll just notch this oem kmember.
11-10-2007, 10:20 PM
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you can notch the k member i did it and then boxed in the notch ith 1/8 inch steel. How much firewall is in the way? if it is 1/2 or less (you may cringe at this) but take a hammer and beat the spot it hits in and repaint the spot you will never see it. otherwise you have to cut the firewall and patch but it can be done. these problems are the easy one to fix. there are a variety of oil pans with a multitude of configurations and I'll bet there is one that fits but even if there is not one the sock one can be cut and welded to fit by a good shop.
