george88gta

iTrader: (3)

Well, I tried to install the S+P LS-1 oil pan, modified for a 1955 Chevy, today and naturally had problems. I did a search and read the previous posts, its basically the same problem I am having. It appears that the pickup tube screen is hitting the internal baffles in the bottom of the pan. I also found that the pickup tube bracket interferes with the windage tray. All in all, not a perfect match of parts. Initial investigation shows that the screen is not mounted square to the tube. Anyone know the correct distance between the screen and the bottom of the pan? Dont want to get it too close and pick up any debris from the bottom of the pan. It seems that I am going to have to modify the windage tray to get it to fit properly. Any concerns with widening the open area around the mounting nuts? Would I be better off removing the tray all together? I am sure that GM wants the tray in place, but with the reduced oil capacity, would it be better to leave it off so the oil can flow back in to the pan with less restriction?

john 67

i too have that tray for my 67 chevelle and did have some clearence problems. s&p told me i didnt need the tray - the pickup tube interfered with the tray and the bottom of the oil pan in the front,so i removed the tray and flattened out the tube slightly, under s&ps' recomendation.the screen is about 1/4 '' from the bottom of the pan . i used some clay to keep checking these measurements ( about 5 times on and off with the engine right side up , a real pain. i havent started it yet but ill be watching closely. JOHN

george88gta

iTrader: (3)

Spent some time today with the modelling clay. I have the pan fitting reasonably well. You can move the pan around about 1/2 the diameter of the mounting bolt holes, without hitting anything. I also have 1/4" to 3/8" clearance between the bottom of the screen and the bottom of the pan. All this with the windage tray installed. Anything else I need to check before bolting it down?

bczee

iTrader: (12)

Make sure that the pump end of the pickup tube is sitting flush with the pump.. you don't want sitting in the pump offset ! else o-ring and lose of pressure problems..

george88gta

iTrader: (3)

Good point, that is one of the weak areas. I had the pump end of the pickup tube, bolted down to the pump flange while I was making my "adjustments". Fit looks pretty good.

george88gta

iTrader: (3)

Some new info (at least for me, some may already know this), regarding the windage tray. Several folks have had issues with the windage tray and S&P now has a note, in their catalog, to not use the windage tray with their modified oil pans. I spoke with the folks at S&P about this and discovered that we were talking about two different parts. They call the tray , that bolts to the bottom of the oil pan and basically forms a sump around the pickup, as the windage tray. Naturally, since the bottom of the pan has been shortened, you cant use the windage tray. What I ( and others) are calling the windage tray ( tray that bolts to the main bearing cap studs) is actually called the oil deflector. They state that you should keep the oil deflector installed. Unfortunately, in my instance, the mounting bracket interferred with the oil deflector and I had to enlarge the opening, in the deflector, to clear the mounting bracket. Sent some pics to the folks at S&P, waiting for their response.

rockytopper

sure glad you started this thread. I have a s & p pan still in the box going to install this next week. great info

67rsss

iTrader: (4)

Weird, we had not problem at all with our S&P pan for a first gen. We did not use the little tray at the pickup, but did keep the windage tray on the main caps. Not one issue.

george88gta

iTrader: (3)

I guess it depends on how they modify the pan. For the 1955 Chevy, they cut a few inches off the front of the sump area and they lengthen the pickup tube. The pickup screen just clears the two internal baffles ( in the bottom of the pan), and you have to adjust the lenghtened pickup tube to get side to side clearance at the rail and at the baffles. At least I had to. Some folks state that they recieved parts that bolt up, no issues.

67rsss

iTrader: (4)

Have noticed that with several of the modified parts vendors, you either get lucky or not. See that a lot in this forum.

camrs73

http://www.brphotrods.com/

they sell motor mounts and crossmembers that supposedly dont require any pan modifications when using the Fbody pan

george88gta

iTrader: (3)

Nice looking pan and a reasonable price. Too late for me, I have mine already.

Rodder

iTrader: (2)

instead they require you to modify the subframe to mount their steering rack, and convert to front steer with no ackerman. And if i remember right, they're using a 4th gen rack that's too wide (bad bump steer), doesn't have enough travel (huge turning radius), and uses heim joints for the outer tie rod ends instead of something that will actually survive street duty.

Personally, I'd rather just relocate AC compressor and use an aftermarket oil pan.