rockytopper

I Need help with egr and smog component identification and removal. I also need engine to frame mount height.

Refer to pictures:

Questions

1. I assume all this plumbing gets removed and I plug off exhaust ports and unhook harnesses? Is this correct?

2. What are these and are they part of emissions that I don’t need? If so do I leave the tube and component hooked to the intake or is there a plug to block off hole behind the throttle body?

3. Is a special tool required to disconnect factory fuel line coupling at the fuel rail. IF not how is it disconnected I could not get it off with brutt force.

4. What dimension do you guys have from the frame to the block on your engine mounts. Sense my engine was supplied with f-body mounts and frame mount I’m trying to determine if I can modify it to work in my A body.

stealth71

iTrader: (15)

Hope that helps.

rockytopper

Thanks stealth as for your reply
Quote
"I can measure this at home, but it is probably different for everyone depending on motor mount/adapter plate choice."

I'm just looking for a ball park number from you guys to see how the f- body mount compares to the ls1 conversion mounts. If it is close to the same i'm going to do my first test fit with the f-body frame mounts still attached to engine and go from there. If I see from your inputs that I am several inches taller than most I will remove them to begin with. The reason I'm considering this approach is I'm not sure what chevy mounts and frame mounts I need in my cutlass assuming the frame mounting holes are in the same place as a 66 or 67 chevelle. The olds motor mounts are two hole and want mount to the adapter plates on the market. There all made for chevy.

bczee

iTrader: (12)

Stealth got the answers... Now if only he would get is project running ! LOL.. any updates.. its been two Thanksgivings now !

I will measure mine for you also.. but if I remember right.. those stocker are pertty tall.

stealth71

iTrader: (15)

I just took a measurement on the mount height. Mine looks like ~3 3/4" from the frame to the engine mount. That's w/ short/wide engine mounts and frame stands, 1/8" preload plate that comes w/ the motor mounts and 1/4" spacer on the frame side.

bczee- I know I need to get this thing running. Trust me, I want to drive it bad. I have actually had time to work on it so I've been tying up the clutch and brakes this week. The clutch works!!! The brakes are getting close.

It will be on the road next year. I hope that gives me enough time. I think you're the only one keeping track of my timing deficiencies. Thanks for the motivation, it helps.

rockytopper

Thanks again stealth. Just to clarify the 3 3/4 dimension you gave me is from your frame surface to the block mounting surface as I have indicated in the picture. Is this correct?
I'm trying to use the complete F-body set up motor mounts and frame mount combo. I already know I will have to mod something just trying to determine a good starting point before I start cutting and welding anything. I'm going to check my height when I get home this evening against your inputs.

stealth71

iTrader: (15)

I just checked it again. Closer to 3 5/8" from the points in your picture.

This is mine w/ short/wide mounts and spacers.

classic gary

My motor mount dimentions are: 4 7/8" as the picture, from the bare frame to the mounting surface (bosses) of the engine block. The lower part is a tall narrow Moroso, and the upper (rubber) mount is ALSO a tall narrow mount. No extra spacers on either side. The adapter piece is from CPP. The truck pan clears the draglink/tierod ends, with about 1/2" clearence. I figured to leave some room for some compression of the rubber, and any movement during operation. My car is a '66, (but you know that, that's my car in the picture), which is closer to yours, but as said above, all these cars are different.

rockytopper

Gary, you caught me red handed. Thanks, I was waiting on your to reply. I knew I wanted input from you and pete cause you guys should be very close to mine as you say.

I just measured my stock f body mounts and they are 7 inches. Looks like I'll be firing the old torch up. The frame mounts are cast steel I thank, If my stick welder want weld it I'll just design and fab my on frame mounts from scratch.

Thanks for all the continued help guys. I have been very busy doing research and buying parts. s&p oil pan is on the way along with walbro ext pump and 99 vet filter regulator. spal fan is next. My goal is engine fires in 84 days. That's all the evil bay guy warrantied it for.

bczee

iTrader: (12)

I am running duel SPAL fans and a Standalone SPAL controller. That way I have taken the fan controlling away from the PCM.. and I can change the settings on the fly without any programmer or laptop.

rockytopper

I'm planning on hard wiring to the ignition one speed only HIGH. I already do this now with 2 smaller pusher fans in front of my radiator. Loud fuel pumps and fans don't bother me. I can't here them anyway over the flow masters and wide open stereo. I'm also considering using my existing mechanical gages including factory Speedo. Looks like I might have to spend about 300$ to make the Speedo work with a black box but that's still way cheaper than doing a full blown digital setup. Besides I want to keep a factory look with a secret weapon lurking under the hood that gets 20 mph + on the highway. Now with all that said I might change my mind and do a full blown Dakota sweet. We did this on my nephews custom ride see link above. I'm still undecided at this point. At the least I will use my current oil and temp gages to start with to monitor the engine.

classic gary

The speedo, I think it's "Jags That Run", makes a tail shaft housing for the 700R4/4L60E,ect, that makes it so you can use the cable for the mechanical speedo. The rest of the mech. type gauges are easy. Speedway has the adapters listed in their cataloge.

pist0lpete

iTrader: (3)

Looks like you have most everything figured out and it seems you are looking at having the engine mounted a bit higher than the rest of us although I have not measured mine from the mounts to the block. This shouldn't be a problem as long as you can get some decent tranny clearance out of it. Also, in the picture you show of your mounts you don't have the alternator mounted. Make sure and bolt it up and see where you are at with it before you make anything permanent because that is a very tight spot on mine.

bczee

iTrader: (12)

pist0lpete is right!.. make sure you assemble everything before you finalize welding and bolting up, cause you never know what will end up hitting.

I haven't been in the garage yet to mesure mine, but I am using the Tall/narrow. So they should be close to Classic Gary's.

Stealth.. yeah.. just trying to keep you motivated.. with all of the stuff you have put into it.. I am just waiting to see it all together..! as with all of the other A-body projects that I take interest and follow.!

pist0lpete

iTrader: (3)

Oh and just to add to a list of possible missed deadlines, I have three weeks off from college starting next friday and I plan to have it running by the end of that time. Wish me luck...haha

classic gary

Yeah, that is the power steering pump that goes there, I'm using truck pan, engine, and accessories. The thing came without a pump when I bought it. Just something else I've got to do. And I don't want to bolt anything down 'till I see if the carb air filter is going to fit in the hole under the cowl hood correctly. Also, has anyone mounted the engine/trans offset to the passenger side? Chevy did it with the B.B. Camaro's, I'm thinking I might have to for steering box/pump clearance. Comments...........................

pist0lpete

iTrader: (3)

Not exactly sure what you mean gary but I was speaking about rockytopper's photos in which he shows his mounts. I assumed he is using the F-body front drive setup which I did not point out in my earlier post and he very well may be using a different front drive setup.

classic gary

that picture of the motor mount is of MY car.

bczee

iTrader: (12)

Gary, As you stated. the BBC were offset to the passenger side and as many Mopars. I don't thin kyou will have any problems as far as operational drive line.. but you better check how much room you will have at the back passenger head (coil are close if you are using a A/C box as well as the heads.) and Headers.

pist0lpete

iTrader: (3)

Ah no wonder I was so confused thanks gary. I assumed since rockytopper posted the photos they were of his car. I meanto comment early but as bczee said I think if you can find the clearance you need in the tranny tunnel offsetting the motor to the pass side shouldn't be a problem whether the tranny angle is a result of pointing it down or moving the output to the right the rear-end doesn't know the difference.